Got My First Poulon Wild Things!

[SteveSr]

Please don't laugh too loud! At least the price was right... FREE. Sort of followed me home. The total take was a 2175 36cc Wild Thing, a 2375 42cc Wild Thing, and a 1975 42cc Wood shark. I have a friend that was looking for a cheap consumer grade saw and I said that I would keep my eye out for one. Little does he know he gets 2 extra parts saws! I thought about keeping one of these for a "loaner" but decided I would just be hook for fixing someone else's abuse.

So now the hunt begins for an IPL and service manuals for these. Can anyone help me out with these or point me in the right direction?

It looks like I need the usual fuel system parts... Air filter, purge bulb, small and smallest fuel lines. Any suggestions on where to get these? I imagine that the purge bulb is a Walbro of some sort. The rest of the fuel system appears to be Walbro.

I got a real kick out of the rear exit exhaust. Never seen that before! Are there ant modification "improvements" that I should make while I have this thing apart... Like a muffler mod? The 2375 appears to have a pre-EPA non-limiter carburetor.

 

[Natster]

Give to somebody... That needs trouble...
N

 

[RED-85-Z51]

New lines, carb kit, drill 3 1/4" holes across the top of the muffler...tune her in and send it.

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[ramdad]

O.K I am in the same boat, I got a few given to me and I bought 2, never really used them for anything serious. I like those things, I dont know why they are so unloved. I hate the pioneer saws, they were mag saws and would boil gas, never start.... The puolans were handy easy to start and cheap. Chains could be gotten anywhere, even the odd gas station. I had them on the kids quads and in the back or my truck. It makes me want to dig mine out again, since they just sit now that my boys dont ride anymore,

 

[lostone]

a 2175 36cc Wild Thing, a 2375 42cc Wild Thing, and a 1975 42cc Wood shark.

So now the hunt begins for an IPL and service manuals for these. Can anyone help me out with these or point me in the right direction?

Parts list is easy, Go to ereplacementparts.com and put in Poulan and the model number, they have all of them you listed, then it will give you a list with all the generations and you will have to pick which one it is but it will give you the parts numbers.
Not the best company that I have bought parts from but it will at least get you the parts list/numbers you need. They can be good one day and god only knows what they are going to do next.

 

[cookies]

i have experienced great results using hipa parts on pull-ons. I have used their primer bulbs/carb kits and a brand of fuel line named Hilitchi that comes as a 4 pack assortment that each size is a different color on multiple saws/weed eaters

 

[Old2stroke]

Good saws for light work, easy to work on and the parts are cheap. Beware of the carbs, they will have 2 check valves that could be faulty if alcoholic fuel has been used. The muffler mod is a real improvement and these will be non-strato saws, so easy to tune.

 

[kevin j]

Close the back muffler slot. Add ports on top or front, add a deflector, retune. Change 18 inch b/c to 14 inch. Picks up a couple thousand rpm. Fun saw. Til your hands go numb.

I’ve often thought it would be fun to have a WT racing at get togethers. Classes for Easy external mods, machining of stock parts, and full on machine shop specials. Oh well...

 

[SteveSr]

Good saws for light work, easy to work on and the parts are cheap. Beware of the carbs, they will have 2 check valves that could be faulty if alcoholic fuel has been used. The muffler mod is a real improvement and these will be non-strato saws, so easy to tune.

This saw has a Walbro WT-324 carb in it. It appears that there is one check valve in the purge valve and I can see only one that looks like a check valve in the metering chamber of the carb. Is there another one in the carb that I am missing?

The other thing that looks to be a challenge is to get the new fuel hoses threaded through the tank assembly. This particular version doesn't use any of the inserts and just relies on the friction fit on the tubing to seal the hole.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

This saw has a Walbro WT-324 carb in it. It appears that there is one check valve in the purge valve and I can see only one that looks like a check valve in the metering chamber of the carb. Is there another one in the carb that I am missing?

The other thing that looks to be a challenge is to get the new fuel hoses threaded through the tank assembly. This particular version doesn't use any of the inserts and just relies on the friction fit on the tubing to seal the hole.

Cut a couple inches of the new line real thin and push it in...grab on it from inside with a pair of hemostats...give a couple turns and pull it thru...snip off the thin section

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[Old2stroke]

This saw has a Walbro WT-324 carb in it. It appears that there is one check valve in the purge valve and I can see only one that looks like a check valve in the metering chamber of the carb. Is there another one in the carb that I am missing?

The other thing that looks to be a challenge is to get the new fuel hoses threaded through the tank assembly. This particular version doesn't use any of the inserts and just relies on the friction fit on the tubing to seal the hole.

Should be a small round brass fitting with a hole in it, that would be the check valve that supplies fuel to the low speed circuit, the other check valve should be a standard hi speed nozzle check valve that feeds fuel to the venturi section of the carb. The purge bulb is not built into the carb, right? In Spite of the check valves in the purge bulb, the carb has to have both check valves or the purge bulb will just suck air back through the hi and low circuits instead of fuel up the fuel line and into the carb. The small body check valve isn't necessary and the engine runs more reliably without it, just means the purge bulb won't work but these saws start pretty quickly with just the choke to suck fuel into the carb.

 

[OM617YOTA]

I've cut plenty of wood with various versions of Poulan, back when I was young and stupid and a Stihl was unobtanium $$$$$$. $5 for a non running Poulan at a garage sale, 15 mins and a can of carb cleaner to get it running again and get a season's worth of cutting out of it. The idiot who "taught" me how to tune them just leaned them out as much as he dared, and when a saw burned up in a couple cords of wood, well that was just how long a saw lasted. If you got two seasons out of saw that was a damned good saw! Ever since I learned how to tune a saw, I've wondered how long they'd actually last if they were turned right.

 

[Wood Doctor]

OK, here's a Pic of the closest thing I have to a Wild Thing:

A Craftsman 4218 that runs like a thoroughbred horse. Most of the time it rests in its case because every time I use it, the guys running Stihls just smile and shake their heads. But, give it a sharp chain and it cuts limbs like bananas.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

If my Mild Thing had anti-vibe id actually use it..

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[SteveSr]

Cut a couple inches of the new line real thin and push it in...grab on it from inside with a pair of hemostats...give a couple turns and pull it thru...snip off the thin section

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Thanks, I think that I have got a pair of hemostats that are long enough.

 

[SteveSr]

Should be a small round brass fitting with a hole in it, that would be the check valve that supplies fuel to the low speed circuit, the other check valve should be a standard hi speed nozzle check valve that feeds fuel to the venturi section of the carb.

Surprisingly, this carb has no high speed nozzle... just a hole in the venturi. Looks like the brass check valve in the metering chamber supplies both H and L circuits?

The purge bulb is not built into the carb, right?

Correct.

In Spite of the check valves in the purge bulb, the carb has to have both check valves or the purge bulb will just suck air back through the hi and low circuits instead of fuel up the fuel line and into the carb. The small body check valve isn't necessary and the engine runs more reliably without it, just means the purge bulb won't work but these saws start pretty quickly with just the choke to suck fuel into the carb.

The fuel delivery is set up weird on this carb (or someone possibly screwed it up?). The fuel line from the tank went from the tank to the primer bulb and then into the fuel pump of the carb. The purge line from the carb then went back to the tank. This don't sound right but that is the way that I found it. Usually the primer sucks the fuel from the metering chamber and then pushes it back into the tank.

 

[SteveSr]

If my Mild Thing had anti-vibe id actually use it..

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Well, this one is going to a friend (who doesn't know any better...yet!).

 

[SteveSr]

Anybody know what the top rated RPM these should be set for? Based on Stihl saws I am thinking that 13.5K would be safe. Acres says 40:1 gas/oil mix. I am assuming that this is due to the chrome piston and aluminum cylinder.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I say 12,000 RPM at WOT. Don't push it.
From the Owner's Manual.

 

[Old2stroke]

Surprisingly, this carb has no high speed nozzle... just a hole in the venturi. Looks like the brass check valve in the metering chamber supplies both H and L circuits?


Correct.



The fuel delivery is set up weird on this carb (or someone possibly screwed it up?). The fuel line from the tank went from the tank to the primer bulb and then into the fuel pump of the carb. The purge line from the carb then went back to the tank. This don't sound right but that is the way that I found it. Usually the primer sucks the fuel from the metering chamber and then pushes it back into the tank.

With only the one check valve, it must supply both circuits, that's a different carb model than is usually found on these saws, have seen it on some of the newer Homelites. One less check valve is a good thing. I have seen a lot of strange ways to find the purge tubing routed, usually they are just backwards but this is a new one and surprisingly it should work well as the check valves in the purge bulb are both pointing in the right direction. Not good though, as the fuel pump will have to suck fuel through it during normal running and it will just become another restriction and possible source of air leak in the fuel line. You are right about the way it should be hooked up.