Thanks for that and I will tomorrow. I'll use a canning jar, we have lots here as my wife likes to can stuff and I like to eat it. She cans killer spaghetti sauce and pickled beets and a lot of other stuff too, including sauerkraut.
Got some bad gas 3 days ago.....
- Thread starter Sidecarflip
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Too bad you don't live closer, I have one I never used, still in the package. I only use the 10 buck HF pumps.
That's what some Americans call E10. The ethanol is produced from fermented corn.
E10 will hold a lot of water before it phase separates, and when it does the aqueous phase will be quite large.
Gasoline without ethanol is nearly 100% hydrocarbons, and water is almost 100% insoluble in hydrocarbons. So any water separates immediately. That's why before E10 people in freezing climates needed to add dry gas to their tanks.
The alcohol in dry gas does two things. A water alcohol mixture has a much lower freezing point so if it phase separates it won't freeze in the gas line and block fuel flow. If enough alcohol is added it will draw the water (hydrogen bond) into the organic phase (the gasoline) as alcohol is soluble in both hydrocarbons and water.
Hard to beat a sound scientific explanation. I'm not scientifically versed. I just know what happens and I don't like it at all.
Most of the non ethanol tanks in my area are above ground. So condensation is #1. The quart glass jar is one of my main diagnosis tools. EVERY unit that comes in for a tune up or running issue of any kind has the fuel drained into it. 75% or better have water. Many others are dirty.
I hear the statement "My fuel is good."
Prove it.
I hear the statement "My fuel is good."
Prove it.
Saws especially are real good for colleting trash in the fuel tanks and oil tanks as well because owners don't clean around the fill caps prior to filling them and all that crud winds up in the tanks, that and stale fuel.
What I do is, I carry a small cheap paint brush in my pocket and brush around the fillers prior to removing the caps and of course I run canned gas anyway.
What I do is, I carry a small cheap paint brush in my pocket and brush around the fillers prior to removing the caps and of course I run canned gas anyway.
Did the jar thing today and half of it was water.
Put the crap gas in my wife's Suburban and the balance in the side by side. Both are fuel injected and computer controlled. Didn't notice anything unusual with the side by side either, ran normally Dang side by side even has a cat on it. Kubota GS 850. Subaru fuel injected water cooled twin.
learned my lesson on fuel.
learned my lesson on fuel.
John Walsh
ArboristSite Member
Good idea! I use a decommissioned toothbrush to brush the chips and shtuff off prior to opening cap
Good idea. Could cut handle short and clip onto a loop of cord on the handle.
Ah- cleaning around filler caps before opening. What a concept!
Totally forgot about the bug growth deal but this truck dosen't sit for long. although it has in the past. Never had the problem in the past though. So that is what is strange.
Being old and being a dirt farmer, I'm usually wearing bib overalls and they have many pockets so the paintbrush resides in one of them, usually one of the upper ones. Bibs are my clothes of choice actually unless we go somewhere special, then I'll 'dress up' in jeans and a Tee shirt with some Snoopy stuff on it.
Never said it would.... All Marine Stabil does is prolong the shelf life of e-gas. Far as my diesels are concerned I use a lubricity additive because my farm tractors are mechanical injection and ULSD lacks the lubricity to keep the pumps from scoring internally. It's not cheap either but inexpensive compared to a new injection pump. I use AR5000 btw. I also use a Nano-Borate additive in all my crankcases on everything.
If your state has a biodiesel mandate, the biodiesel will add more lubricity than was lost by going to ULSD. Oregon is B5 and I never worried about lubricity when I was running my diesel truck.
I won't touch bio crap diesel ever again. That stuff cost me over a grand in repairs to my diesel pickup truck and I did the grunt work myself. Bio Diesel has a bad habit of growing algae which destroys lift pumps, clogs fuel filters and if it gets to the injectors, destroys them as well.
I had to replace the lift pump, drop both fuel tanks and clean out, replace the front tank sending unit, have the injectors rebuilt.... Not for me. The AR500 diesel additive is much cheaper in the long run.
My pickup truck is a farm truck so it stays garaged all winter and it had bio crap in it and grew algae.
You won't find any big trucks running it either. Bad ju ju.
Don't come to Oregon, any diesel sold here is 5% biodiesel. Just isn't an issue. I haven't looked into the environmental stuff to see if it's actually a loser like ethanol, but less sulfur + more lubricity is a solid win, fuel quality wise.
Bio doesn't grow algae, water grows algae.
I have no intention of going to Oregon or any other liberal run state for that matter. Fair statement on algae but bio provides a much better growing medium for it than regular ULSD does. When I think of Oregon, Portland comes to mind right away.
After my expensive episode, I add biocide to my 500 gallon bulk diesel tank always. I don't want tractor issues nor do I want standby generator issues either as my diesel standby draws it's fuel from my bulk tank.
After my expensive episode, I add biocide to my 500 gallon bulk diesel tank always. I don't want tractor issues nor do I want standby generator issues either as my diesel standby draws it's fuel from my bulk tank.
Look at an election map of Oregon by county, and you'll see where most of the state stands. Portland IS NOT Oregon, not even America for that matter.
Everything else in your post, I agree with.
You don't have to agree. Portland is in Oregon, like it or not. I'll leave it at that.
