Granberg/Alaskan Mk III question

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Yellowbeard

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Anyone know where I can get the aluminum stock that Granberg uses for rails? For that matter, I guess I could use advice as to where to get the steel pipe they use as well (though I figure that should be easier to come by). I would like to have a variety of rail lengths and I figured if I could get the stock that I could just cut a number of custom sizes, probably quite a bit cheaper than what they charge for their standard sizes. It's some kind of specialized C/box channel, I reckon.

Anyone done this?

Got a line on some cherry and maybe sycamore to test out the mill on in a couple of weeks. Will post pics/video when that happens. Looks like I'll be able to use the 25" Tsumura bar I bought after all - seems pretty perfect with my 24" rails once the dawgs are removed.

Anyone ever mill sycamore? Is it worth doing?

Thanks!

W.C.
 
Not sure about the rails. I have been milling some sycamore recently though. The slabs look nice.. Stain easily from what I have read -cleaning off any sawdust before stacking for drying is recommended - and using a light coloured wood for the stickers too.
I found a nice old slab of sycamore that had been used for a kitchen top once. I think it was quite old (but not a good use for sycamore - its not very durable with wet), made it into some nice reversible game/chopping blocks.
 
Anyone know where I can get the aluminum stock that Granberg uses for rails? For that matter, I guess I could use advice as to where to get the steel pipe they use as well (though I figure that should be easier to come by). I would like to have a variety of rail lengths and I figured if I could get the stock that I could just cut a number of custom sizes, probably quite a bit cheaper than what they charge for their standard sizes. It's some kind of specialized C/box channel, I reckon.

Anyone done this?

In Australia the Granberg rail is commonly sold by alminium companies.as "Highway sign" stock
I wanted something a bit heavier duty so I used something called "Heavy duty highway sign" stock on my mills.

Here is what the cross sections look like.
88433d1233363668-railxsection-jpg


The minimum length I could buy was 20ft.
Everything is expensive in Australia but even here it is still worth buying as the price of the Granberg mills is about twice the US price.
The prices for the 20 ft lengths were ~$95 for the HD stuff and $65 for the regular stuff.

I went for the HD stuff as it has more room in the bolt slot and is a bit heavier duty all round, but the regular stuff would be fine especially for smaller mills.

Note how I clad the bottom of my rails with HDPE to make them slipperier.
 
A few years ago I bought some replacement rails for my 48" Granberg and their prices were not that bad. I cant remember the exact price but I think they were $48. they have really good customer service so you might want to give then a call before you go out and reinvent the wheel.
 
Most PE is soft whereas HDPE is hard but still very slippery. There are various grades or densities used in industry. In my state mining is HUGE and there is a lot of HDPE used as wear plates when moving ore around. On a CSM it eventually gets scratched and buckles and needs to be replaced. The HDPE on one set of rails has been replaced once but it is still good on the other two sets of rails.
 
Hmmm. Bobl, I can't find that stuff under highway signs here in the U.S. I think we use steel, mostly.

I priced a set of 48" rails and they run to $79 plus shipping. That's where this whole thing started. I figured I could buy stock more cheaply and cut my own stuff.

I'll just have to do a lot more looking at aluminum channel profiles. If I find it, I'll post.
 
I made mine out of 11/2 square tubing 45 on the corners its also my oil tank . Uprights are 1" round spot drilled on 1" integuments and bolted to bar with 1/4 '' 20 button head bolts ,36" 3/8 with ms660 . I run peanut oil in the mill and good bar oil in the saw.You eaver make it to springfield ?
 
About a year ago I was trying to look for the extruded aluminium track also. I just ended up buying grand bergs track. I have found out the hard way that sometimes it gets expensive to be frugal. Try a national steel supplier, or supply house. ( Alro steel, Fastenal ect.)
 
I made mine out of 11/2 square tubing 45 on the corners its also my oil tank . Uprights are 1" round spot drilled on 1" integuments and bolted to bar with 1/4 '' 20 button head bolts ,36" 3/8 with ms660 . I run peanut oil in the mill and good bar oil in the saw.You eaver make it to springfield ?

I rarely make it up there but have a college roommate who lives up there, so I have excuses to go. I've also always wanted to see Bass Pro and haven't. Would be happy to let you know if I am up that way - you should do the same if you've ever in NWA.
 
Hmmm. Bobl, I can't find that stuff under highway signs here in the U.S. I think we use steel, mostly.
I priced a set of 48" rails and they run to $79 plus shipping. That's where this whole thing started. I figured I could buy stock more cheaply and cut my own stuff.
I'll just have to do a lot more looking at aluminum channel profiles. If I find it, I'll post.

I know a couple of other folk in the US who have tried to look for these profiles without success.

I have made lots of things with this profile.
Roof racks
122919d1264426240-dingoloadingrails-jpg


And the main column for this macrophotography stand.
attachment.php

The central column has a lead counter weight that balances the weight of the lamps and lamp arms.
The counter weight is connected to the lamps and arms via a SS cable running over a teflon roller.
The counter weight was cast using a short length of the ally profile as the mould.
 
I know a couple of other folk in the US who have tried to look for these profiles without success.

I have made lots of things with this profile.
Roof racks
122919d1264426240-dingoloadingrails-jpg


And the main column for this macrophotography stand.
attachment.php

The central column has a lead counter weight that balances the weight of the lamps and lamp arms.
The counter weight is connected to the lamps and arms via a SS cable running over a teflon roller.
The counter weight was cast using a short length of the ally profile as the mould.

Think I am going to try this: 1" x 1" x 145" 6105-T5 Clear Mono-Slot T-Slotted Extruded Bar | Fastenal

It seems like in order to get the stuff you're using I would have to have a custom run of it made. Strange - it seems like a pretty simple/standard profile to me. Would think it would be a stock item. I'll let everyone know how it works out.
 
I also just found this: Profiles | ClassicMODUL and am waiting for a price quote from the manufacturer. The slot is .33" wide which seems too wide to me (I am at work and so can't measure). Any thoughts? I guess I could machine some bolts that could work...
 
I also just found this: Profiles | ClassicMODUL and am waiting for a price quote from the manufacturer. The slot is .33" wide which seems too wide to me (I am at work and so can't measure). Any thoughts? I guess I could machine some bolts that could work...

That extrusion looks like it is 2 mm thick which is a bit thin for mill rails. Might be alright for a small mill/saw.
The 0.33" slot would suit a 8mm diam bolt but the T- part of the slot would be too small to fit the head of the bolt.
 
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That extrusion looks like it is 2 mm thick which is a bit thin for mill rails. Might be alright for a small mill/saw.
The 0.33" slot would suit a 8mm diam bolt but the T- part of the slot would be too small to fit the head of the bolt.

Good to know. Thanks. What about the other stuff I posted? Opinions?
 
As for the bolts, btw, I plan to use carriage bolts, so I was pretty sure they would fit in either of the pieces of stock I picked. However, if you think I am wrong for some reason, I am happy to hear it. Don't want to buy stock I can't use.
 
First stuff looks better. I think note some members are already using this stuff.

As for the bolts, btw, I plan to use carriage bolts, so I was pretty sure they would fit in either of the pieces of stock I picked. However, if you think I am wrong for some reason, I am happy to hear it. Don't want to buy stock I can't use.

Carriage bolts with a short section of square shank are ideal.
 

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