Drum roll, please. I finally figured how to do what it took to restore the pix to this show & tell guide, per request.
This setup procedure has evolved for simplicity and efficiency, for wide variety of cutter types & sizes.
1. Clamp file to match cutter in holder. Mark first tooth for start reference, unless double-tooth or such avail.
2. Place guide base on bar, about 1/3 back from the tip. Set ht. so that front clamp sits just above rivets. Set main clamp ht. so that chain can move without interference. In pic, notice that rear clamp is a bit too low.
3. Set horizontal angle for rt-side cutters, in this example. Typically 25-30 deg. from perpendicular to chain.
4. Initial file ht setting. Drop it in groove, set tooth backside against stop and set ht. so it drags lightly on bottom. Raise it slightly, say .010".
5. Check file ht with finger on top of tooth & file. File should be ~1/10-1/5 of its diameter above tooth. Finger works better here than eyeball, typically. Be sure adjustable stop stays clear of file "carriage"- it's meant to help you to file teeth evenly, but just gets in the way, except for depth gauges.
6. File cutters on one side X# of strokes each, depending on condition. Could be 2-10, dull to rocked. Always file "inside-out" (file exiting @ cutting edge), with no force on return stroke, regularly brushing chips from file. (They dull the file.)
7. After filing last tooth on first side, flip guide about, and do other side the same. Same angle setting.
This guide has served me well for ~35 yrs. Hopefully it can make sharpening work for you. Sure extends useful life of chains, and files. No doubt, others will correct/amplify the above for all our benefit.
Next installation will be "Filing Depth Gauges With Granberg." Pix also restored there.
This setup procedure has evolved for simplicity and efficiency, for wide variety of cutter types & sizes.
1. Clamp file to match cutter in holder. Mark first tooth for start reference, unless double-tooth or such avail.
2. Place guide base on bar, about 1/3 back from the tip. Set ht. so that front clamp sits just above rivets. Set main clamp ht. so that chain can move without interference. In pic, notice that rear clamp is a bit too low.
3. Set horizontal angle for rt-side cutters, in this example. Typically 25-30 deg. from perpendicular to chain.
4. Initial file ht setting. Drop it in groove, set tooth backside against stop and set ht. so it drags lightly on bottom. Raise it slightly, say .010".
5. Check file ht with finger on top of tooth & file. File should be ~1/10-1/5 of its diameter above tooth. Finger works better here than eyeball, typically. Be sure adjustable stop stays clear of file "carriage"- it's meant to help you to file teeth evenly, but just gets in the way, except for depth gauges.
6. File cutters on one side X# of strokes each, depending on condition. Could be 2-10, dull to rocked. Always file "inside-out" (file exiting @ cutting edge), with no force on return stroke, regularly brushing chips from file. (They dull the file.)
7. After filing last tooth on first side, flip guide about, and do other side the same. Same angle setting.
This guide has served me well for ~35 yrs. Hopefully it can make sharpening work for you. Sure extends useful life of chains, and files. No doubt, others will correct/amplify the above for all our benefit.
Next installation will be "Filing Depth Gauges With Granberg." Pix also restored there.
