And I don't grease them until the rim needs to be flipped.I have never seen single one.
And I don't grease them until the rim needs to be flipped.I have never seen single one.
How's a clutch bearing going to create an air leak? The bearing only spins when the saw is at idle. I would say the vast majority of saw owners never grease these bearings.i grease the needles when ever i get to the shop and have to give a little love to the bars sleigh foot. i want my needle running full speed and cool. so i dont over heat teh bearings and get a air leak. i've been using white lithium, but am leaning towards trying the lucas blue marine grade, next time up.
Never seen or heard of that happening. Has anyone else?Your needle bearing is picking up heat from not working correctly.the heat transfers to the crankshaft bearing. You can heat and weld the inner and outer bearing. Bearing spins in the plastic housing. You suck air.
Pulled my clutch drum and greased it again. 5to10 min job
I haven't, for whatever that's worth.Never seen or heard of that happening. Has anyone else?
Me either and Ive been around chainsaws all my life.Never seen or heard of that happening. Has anyone else?
I was just about to post the exact same thing! That video doesn't lead me to clutch bearing failure, it leads me to SEAL and CRANK bearing failure. Running a chain too tight or too dull and leaning on it WILL cause that bearing to fail.I don't knownifnInagree with that guy. For starters that sort of chipping and peening is typicaly caused by a loose chain, not a tight chain. That bar shows normal wear on the paint. Thenpaint isn't burned off likening ran hot.
If the seal failed it would lunch the top end from being lean before the bearing failed.
An overly tight chain may have caused the bearing to fail.
If I had to guess some ham fist used the saw with a dull chain. Of course the chain loosened up and in a misguided effort to deal with that then operator over tightened the chain.
Regardless that wasn't caused by a clutch bearing not being lubed in any way. It was caused by abuse.
Didnt say this was caused by a non greased clutch bearing . But it shows how heat can transfer. look at the blue clutch drum. Some plastic case saw have been heated to the point where the case is total junk. I think this is where sand rock was going to.I don't knownifnInagree with that guy. For starters that sort of chipping and peening is typicaly caused by a loose chain, not a tight chain. That bar shows normal wear on the paint. Thenpaint isn't burned off likening ran hot.
If the seal failed it would lunch the top end from being lean before the bearing failed.
An overly tight chain may have caused the bearing to fail.
If I had to guess some ham fist used the saw with a dull chain. Of course the chain loosened up and in a misguided effort to deal with that then operator over tightened the chain.
Regardless that wasn't caused by a clutch bearing not being lubed in any way. It was caused by abuse.
Sandrock said the clutch bearingDidnt say this was caused by a non greased clutch bearing . But it shows how heat can transfer. look at the blue clutch drum. Some plastic case saw have been heated to the point where the case is total junk. I think this is where sand rock was going to.
The clutch bearing only spins at idle..Face it plastic belongs in cheap glasses and cheap sunglasses. Not bearings turning 12000 or morel
Bar oil has no lubing effect on the clutch bearing.I grease mine when I have them apart and/or cleaning them. Otherwise the bar oil works fine.
As @rahtreelimbs mentioned bar oil never reaches the clutch bearing in any sort of reasonable quantity.My 395 has the grease port at the end of the shaft. Manual says grease weekly. I just pump the blue Oregon grease in whenever I use it. Beating stays in great shape. My other saws just get greased about once a year. Otherwise bar oil does keep them lubed.