grease gun

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Here is a tip or two that might help prevent throwing your grease gun in anger. Most have a bolt or screw near the hose/line outlet on the top of the gun..this is a air bleed the other tip is to replace the tube before it runs out. Any leftovers get scooped out and put into the mostly empty can of grease we all have somewhere, refilling the guide bar grease gun or a personal fave is to wipe it under the truck door handle of that one %$^%$*&^$#@'er who thinks they are funny or tries to prank others.My next gun will be a milwaukee, im tired of trying to squeeze handles in cold weather.
 
I've been considering this grease gun and grease for quite a while now. Seems every time I reload my old grease gun I remind myself that there has to be a better way. Then I would look into this system and balk at the price. Well, I recently wore out the ball joints on my JD x728 tractor, and they are welded to the ends of the tie rod. That makes them very expensive. The dealer parts guy suggested it was probably because I wasn't keeping them greased as much as I should. This in spite of me more than quadrupling the service cycle that is recommended in the manual. Be that as it may - I now intend to grease them even more frequently, and decided to "treat" myself to one of these Lube Shuttles, and add a LocknLube end to it (which required an adapter due to German standards vs US standards on the threaded ends). It was still expensive, but compared to my JD tie rod with welded on ball joints, I think I'll be better off in the long run. Thanks for bringing this back to front of mind. Nice to have an easy, quick, and reliable grease gun when laying upside down under the tractor on the cold winter concrete floor of my garage. Anyone interested in a very used OEM John Deere MIA 880702? With access to the right fab shop, I'm told one could easily cut the ball joints off, weld new ones on and have an entirely serviceable system for peanuts.

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Shame things like that happen, it's all by design too. Now you have to buy a new shaft or fan your own. I would have gone for the latter myself. I have a similar issue with my yanmar tractor. I havent figures out how I'm dealing with it yet, but I can guarantee the tie rid ends will be Ford or Chevy comparable when its done.
 
I switched to an air gun a number of years ago. I had tried one way long ago and it just made a mess. Then I decided to try one again and love it. I can do my walk behind,, two JD's and my FEL quicker than i used to be able to do just the walk behind. When I first got it, I thought it was empty because I put several shots in a fitting, and the rubber bulb didn't show any sign of filling. So, I pointed it at the wall and pulled the trigger. A glob of grease shot across the garage and stuck to the wall. One tube will get all of my equipment.
 
I've had a couple Lincoln air powered grease guns. They both failed in time.

I never looked into rebuild kits and don't know if they exist.

I'm back to hand pumping and really like the feedback hand pumping gives. Plus it is nice not dragging an air hose around.
 
Alemite guns have been good for some time.
I use two...one for bushings and one for bearings.
Nowhere near inexpensive but Swepco grease is well worth it's price in it's specific applications.
 
I've been using the new grease gun for two months and continue to love it. The grease I choose is black and seems to last on forklift sideway shift pins much better than the red grease I previously used. Perhaps being black it is simply more visible. On the conveyor bearings I pump more more grease through the bearing which seems rather clean when I wipe off the excess with paper towel. I attribute this to greasing more often now that it isn't a hassle greasing and changing out tubes. The SuperSplit bearings seem to be in an enclosed housing,so not sure where the grease goes. I give it three or four pumps per side for the flywheels and call it good. I'm going through a lot less paper towels as before. And my hands and the grease gun stay relatively clean, even when changing out tubes.
 
Guess i will be that guy, be careful using auto grease guns! I have seen more than once where someone over fills a sealed grease chamber to the point pressure on the zerk fitting threads strip firing it off at dangerous speed leaving a large purple welt on skin, a huge mess of grease all over anything (or anyone) within the fallout zone. They can also push out wheel bearing seals, bearing buddies etc. If or when possible grease tie rods/ ball joints/slip joints/u joints/king pins unsprung (without vehicle weight or load on them) until clean grease comes out. Doing this pushes grease into and through contact points inside the joint that have tight clearances when unloaded.
 
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