Green Wheel vs Diamond Wheel

[Oly's Stump]

I have always used green wheels for sharpening stump teeth and always wondered if buying a diamond wheel would be better. What wheels do you guys use ? Are diamond users subject to less dust which would be healthier in the long run ? How long does a diamond wheel last ? Where do you purchase your diamond wheels ?

 

[preach it]

I realize that this is an old post but it had no answer to it. Maybe by now someone has tried the diamond wheel for a while and will post something about the comparison of the two. I a considering purchasing a diamond wheel if it is faster and less dust than the green wheel. I have checked the prices on the diamond wheels and you can buy them for less than $50.

 

[snowyman]

Those green wheels will kill you, the dust goes everywhere and even if you wear a good mask it's still there. How many teeth do you need to sharpen ?
You might be better off sending them out, there are a lot of guys doing it, including me. The wheel I use is about $400. I'm in Australia so, have a look around.

 

[preach it]

I know that someone out there has tried the diamond wheel and could give a good comparison of the pros and cons compared to the green wheel. I have used a green wheel for six years now and it works fine. It just seems like there might be a faster way out there. Not including sending them out to someone else.

 

[stumpgo]

Like you 'preach it', I've sharpened with green wheels for many years (standard Raycos). Over 10 years ago I tried a 'cheap' diamond wheel. It was magnificent for a short while; much quicker, almost infinitely cleaner and cooler. But too soon lost its diamonds, and I went back to green wheels.

I am 2 months into my second go with diamond; and now would never change back. Diamond wheels have definitely come of age. The bonding is greatly improved, and the cost of industrial diamond is much reduced.

I'm sharpening green teeth now, with a similar set up to the photo posted by Xtra on the New Green Teeth thread (2nd post).

Wheel specifications are confusing. I discussed all this at length with a local wheel manufacturer and bought from limited stock what seemed the nearest to my needs. Normally they make to order according to your spec. with a 10 day turn around.

Anyway I have a 7" inch diameter wheel thats 1/2" wide. Its solid aluminum with a 3mm layer of resin/diamond composite on the periphery. It cost about $200. So far I have sharpened/resharpened about 50 green 1100 cutters, with no loss in performance and almost no wear to the wheel, certainly less than 10%.

Given that there is 2-3 times the carbide on a green 1100 compared with 1/2" Raycos that should translate into sharpening at least 1000 of them.

With Raycos I suspect it is wise to grind back the surplus steel on a standard wheel before presenting the the carbide to the diamond wheel.

Metal bonding is said to be stronger than resin and somewhat more expensive. Grit size wants to be towards the most aggressive.

Hope that helps.

 

[preach it]

Thanks for the answer. That's what I wanted to find out. How come more of us don't use a diamond wheel? Sounds like it saves money in the long run and is easier and faster to use. There has got to be more out there that have tried them. Anyone?

 

[Oly's Stump]

At present I still use green wheels. Where did you diamond wheel guys buy the wheel?

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

Like you 'preach it', I've sharpened with green wheels for many years (standard Raycos). Over 10 years ago I tried a 'cheap' diamond wheel. It was magnificent for a short while; much quicker, almost infinitely cleaner and cooler. But too soon lost its diamonds, and I went back to green wheels.

I am 2 months into my second go with diamond; and now would never change back. Diamond wheels have definitely come of age. The bonding is greatly improved, and the cost of industrial diamond is much reduced.

I'm sharpening green teeth now, with a similar set up to the photo posted by Xtra on the New Green Teeth thread (2nd post).

Wheel specifications are confusing. I discussed all this at length with a local wheel manufacturer and bought from limited stock what seemed the nearest to my needs. Normally they make to order according to your spec. with a 10 day turn around.

Anyway I have a 7" inch diameter wheel thats 1/2" wide. Its solid aluminum with a 3mm layer of resin/diamond composite on the periphery. It cost about $200. So far I have sharpened/resharpened about 50 green 1100 cutters, with no loss in performance and almost no wear to the wheel, certainly less than 10%.

Given that there is 2-3 times the carbide on a green 1100 compared with 1/2" Raycos that should translate into sharpening at least 1000 of them.

With Raycos I suspect it is wise to grind back the surplus steel on a standard wheel before presenting the the carbide to the diamond wheel.

Metal bonding is said to be stronger than resin and somewhat more expensive. Grit size wants to be towards the most aggressive.

Hope that helps.

Have you got a link or contact number mate, for the firm that supplied your diamond wheel?

 

[snowyman]

I have a Thorvie, this is the wheel. No dust off the wheel, they'r expensive but last.View attachment 63700

 

[stumpgo]

Rollacosta - Here you are -

http://www.pbrabrasives.com/product.php?id=3,4&url2=products.php

They are based in the West Midlands (01902 368 624). James Swinburne was my initial contact - found him most helpful. As a guide in UK money I paid £117.49 + vat for the described wheel (Incl. £7.50 p+p).

For Rayco teeth a profiled wheel might be best. That said, without firm advice from an experienced user, I reckon I would start first with a basic wheel and see how it goes.

With Green teeth (1100s ) the grinding contact area is relatively large - full width of the wheel and 1/2"+ of the periphery.
I've found that a standard 8" grinder @ around 375 watts is somewhat low on power; requiring below optimum pressure on the wheel. This is particularly so as the sharpening is typically happening without supervision.

Currently I'm setting up a 900w, 10", grinder for the task. And expect I will need to learn the trade-off between speed of sharpening and wheel wear.

 

[B-Edwards]

I have a thorvie wheel i would let go at a good price. I would still use it but i use sandvick teeth now and its just not for them. It is a better way than green wheels and alot less dust. just be careful and dont get it hot the glue melts and you lose diamonds. Pm me if interested, or post here.

 

[stumpgo]

Hi snowyman - I was not aware of your post when I posted!

That looks spot on for Rayco type teeth - whats the cost of a wheel?

Cheers.

 

[Xtra]

I also use the Thorvie system with a diamond wheel. I would never go back to green wheels . . . less dust, faster sharpening.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=31567&highlight=Thorvie

 

[snowyman]

Hi stumpgo, I got one a couple of months ago while our dollar was way up, $489US, you should get a good deal if $us is down.

Hello Xtra, how's your thumb. You are one of the reasons I got one. The other guy was Sbuster or something like that from NZ. When he was talking about Thorvie our $ was about 72c -1us and it was a bit too much, but at 94c I went looking again and found your post, thanks.

$489 is the wheel only.

 

[scouse]

Try one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Plain-1A1Diamond-Wheel-for-Carbide-NEW-1500121003_W0QQitemZ230217959640QQihZ013QQcategoryZ64819QQcmdZViewItem
Ive just ordered another one cheap and WAY better than using a green wheel.


A quick tip is to place a couple of strong magnets around the exhaust of your grinder this will catch alot of the tungsten dust, also dont forget to use a decent respirator even though its not as bad as the silicon from the green wheels tungsten dust is still VERY nasty suff.