Hard on axe handles

[Multifaceted]

What axe is that? I’m looking into better quality ones. I use that same style from Lowe’s as of now. I’m only getting 15 Ish cords before the head gets loose on them though. Then usually I buy another and gift it to someone who just needs to split one here and there since those cheap heads get knicked up bad. Loose corners and stuff.

I’ll get those pics in a bit. I left the wood rig at dads house yesterday’s since it’s closer to the pasture and I don’t wanna burn excess diesel.
Yea I had to sand it a bunch to get the double bit handle to fit. It was really rigid wood too. Most of what I split can be done laying on the ground if your good with the splitter. But this stuff I broke the axe on I was having to use velocity and force.
Maybe a handle guard would help with pass through marking.

It is a Helko Spaltaxt and I bought from an outfit in Alabama that was considerably less than other retailers. Here is the link: https://wisementrading.com/wood-working/helko/spaltaxt-german-style-splitting-axe/

Those German style splitters from Lowes work well enough, I had one on a fiberglass handle for a while, but it was too long, the steel too soft, and the shock absoprtion sucked. Had elbow issues that kept me from splitting for a month or so. I eventually gave it away when I purchased the Helko. By that time I had ditched all of my fiberglass handles in favor of wooden ones. Mostly for the old-timey romance of steel and wood tools.

A handle or collar guard work wonders. Some call them "overstrike protectors", but it's really to minimize the scraping of the handle passing through the split, which eventually wears it away. I made the one above from .125" thick Kydex, laced it with paracord and secure it from slipping down with a piece of bicycle inner tube. It is pretty rigid and I don't need to worry at all about blowing through a stringy piece of hickory or cherry. The splinters just glide over the Kydex and protects the wood handle underneath. I have about 4-5 cords now using that collar which I made back in January.

 

[GVS]

I've broken my share of wood handles.

All my heavy hitters are fiberglass.....malls, axes, sledgehammers and such.
Wood adds character but less durable.

My 2 MONSTER MAULS have steel handles welded to the head.Ain't broke a handle yet.

 

[4seasons]

My 2 MONSTER MAULS have steel handles welded to the head.Ain't broke a handle yet.

Been down that road also. Heavy head splits less effectively than a light weight splitting axe due to the speed you can swing the lighter tool. If you are driving wedges the extra weight comes in handy, but it is very hard on the wrist, elbows and shoulders with all the vibration a metal handle transmits.

 

[Multifaceted]

Been down that road also. Heavy head splits less effectively than a light weight splitting axe due to the speed you can swing the lighter tool. If you are driving wedges the extra weight comes in handy, but it is very hard on the wrist, elbows and shoulders with all the vibration a metal handle transmits.

Agreed, I've used heavy mauls on steel handles and I would probably blow out my elbows having to swing that all day, no thanks. Another reason why I don't like splitting mauls, too heavy and the blunted shape doesn't bite deep enough. I can split better with a heavy axe than with a maul. The German style splitters are kind of a hybrid design, and the steel is excellent, very similar to US 1050. I have only touched up the edge once, and I narrowed the angle too. That things often eats some dirt even though I try to avoid it, but the bit isn't rolled, only the slightest amount of nicks. I don't keep that sharp either, just enough to get good penetration and is still low-maintenance.

 

[GVS]

Been down that road also. Heavy head splits less effectively than a light weight splitting axe due to the speed you can swing the lighter tool. If you are driving wedges the extra weight comes in handy, but it is very hard on the wrist, elbows and shoulders with all the vibration a metal handle transmits.

On straight grained pieces a lighter ,fast swinging axe works great but on twisted grain or knotty pieces the M/M is the way to go.Most all my wood is split with a hyd. splitter but when winter comes around and I light the stove I'll find a nasty piece that only made it through the my splitter once but the M/M will almost always finish it off .

 

[dancan]

Here's my best guess , while it may have had good orientation the grain was at an angle from how the blank was cut then shaped on the handle lathe so the end grain on one end wasn't the same end grain at the other end .
It looks to me like it split along the grain and it followed from one side to the other .
Again , only a guess .

 

[rarefish383]

I find the best axes at farm sales. This is a 3 1/2 pound Plumb and I love it. My cousin got it for me for $8. Only problem was I had to take the rest of the stuff with it.

These I got or $3 apiece, and the Sandvic brush ax for $1.

I enjoy auctions, and if I don't have anything pressing to do, I'll spend a few hours waiting for an ax or saw I want. Don't get started on saws, i have more saws than axes.

 

[rarefish383]

I find the best axes at farm sales. This is a 3 1/2 pound Plumb and I love it. My cousin got it for me for $8. Only problem was I had to take the rest of the stuff with it.

These I got or $3 apiece, and the Sandvic brush ax for $1.

I enjoy auctions, and if I don't have anything pressing to do, I'll spend a few hours waiting for an ax or saw I want. Don't get started on saws, i have more saws than axes.

 

[dancan]

Here's my best guess , while it may have had good orientation the grain was at an angle from how the blank was cut then shaped on the handle lathe so the end grain on one end wasn't the same end grain at the other end .
It looks to me like it split along the grain and it followed from one side to the other .
Again , only a guess .

This pic from here
https://www.campwoodsmoke.com/replacing-axe-handle

 

[LondonNeil]

I was thinking same as Dan, I reckon he's nailed it.

Nice to hear that kydex protector is holding up Clarence

 

[LondonNeil]

I was thinking same as Dan, I reckon he's nailed it.

Nice to hear that kydex protector is holding up Clarence

 

[dancan]

Here's my GB with it's factory protector and my Ochsenkopf with my homebrew protector .

 

[CR888]

when I went to work for the railroad back in 1976, we used to drive a lot of spiles by hand. Not so much by the time I retired couple years ago. We replaced hammer handles by the box full. I broke my share. I remember one guy that was about 6'6" tall. Handles wouldnt last him more than a few spikes. I guess he had to bend to far to make a good strike. The supervisor decided to try some of the new fiberglass handled hammers and he handed a new one to the big guy and said,"Lets see You break this handle". The big guy took the handle and swung it across the rail a couple of licks and it splintered into and then handed it back to the boss. The supervisor just stood there with his mouth open and couldnt say a thing. Wood handled hammers where still the norm when I left.

While not a big fan of handles made from anything but wood, I think things have come a long way since your railway days. The fiberglass handles back then were brittle & much worse IMO from the composite axe/splitter handle of today like what Fiskars/Husky & many others use. The new composite handles are pretty indestructible compared to handles of the past. I prefer wood but there is definitely a place for composite it has 'some' big advantages for sure.

 

[muddstopper]

While not a big fan of handles made from anything but wood, I think things have come a long way since your railway days. The fiberglass handles back then were brittle & much worse IMO from the composite axe/splitter handle of today like what Fiskars/Husky & many others use. The new composite handles are pretty indestructible compared to handles of the past. I prefer wood but there is definitely a place for composite it has 'some' big advantages for sure.

I'll agree. I have a mual and a axe with the newer plastic type handles. Doesnt transfer shock to the hands and dont break. biggest problem I have with the new non-wooden handles is when they get loose. Wood handles just drive in a wedge, penny or washer to tighten them back up, plastic handles dont take wedges to well. Then you have the rubberized grips that always get loose and just slide off the handle. Used to take wooden handles and take a saw blade to the grip. roughing up the handle so I could hang on to it. And why was it always raining when I had to drive spikes. Nothing like trying to swing a 10speed with wet oily gloves.

 

[Multifaceted]

I just like the romance of wood and steel, and because it's way more cool...

 

[Mustang71]

I just like the romance of wood and steel, and because it's way more cool...

I agree I wish I had your axe tuning skills. I opened the "axe for dummies" book and it said buy a fiskars. Lol

 

[Multifaceted]

I agree I wish I had your axe tuning skills. I opened the "axe for dummies" book and it said buy a fiskars. Lol

Probably for the better, they're addictive.... Why have just one when 20 will do?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Most my splitting is with x27 but ocassionally use a wedge/4# sledge but only after the maul wont work. I wrap duct tape around my 10# maul handle. Have to replace it as it gets ratty. Works well and is cheap.

 

[rarefish383]

Wood has warmth and beauty, plastic is just cold.

 

[Multifaceted]

Brand new video from Skillcult on this very topic. I'll just leave this here...