Hardy H2 water loss

[Canatct]

This is a ‘96 model which has a vertical float. The water level is even with the top of the float when full. They went to the horizontal float later on.

 

[Canatct]

It did overheat on Friday when that damper door stuck open, and since then the water level is very close to the bottom of the condenser tank... no matter how much water I pour in. I’m just not seeing where it’s coming out.
I’ve learned a lot about this thing since my father passed 2 years ago. Like you don’t have to remove the firebox door to get the hull off. Actually learned that one today after I had the door on the ground lol.

 

[Scottnc]

IF it is hooked up, there is an electric solenoid valve (from the back of the stove - upper right, kinda hard to see) on the water line to the stove. Mine is a 2008 or 2009, on it the float in the tank is also a switch. The switch energizes the solenoid valve to add make up water AND (left side from the back) turns on a red light to signal the drop in water level. My float switch failed twice in short order before the flost itself disintergrated. So I yanked it. For a while I energized the solenoid valve via a swith. Later, I thought the solenoid valve was leaking so removed it completely and added a ball valve. Whenever the water is low just open the ball valve, easier than having to drag a hose to the stove.

 

[Canatct]

Update.... NO water leak, which is great. I added 5 gallons of water and it took it. It wasn’t leaking out. It was that low from boiling over.
The real problem is I have air getting in somewhere causing the stove to spark after the blower shuts off and when this happens it blows the damper door open and it boils over. Upon closer inspection the squirrel cage on the blower is coated thick with creosote. So much that I don’t see how it’s pushing air at all.
I shut it off yesterday and there was still quite a bit of smoke coming from the chimney today and the water was still very hot. I pulled the old chimney which was choked up with creosote. Installed a new stainless steel chimney. Also made a new seal around the cleanout with silicone and wax paper. Tomorrow I’m replacing both door seals and installing a new blower. Hopefully this will remedy the problem.

Also I want to add that Hardy is closed now due to the virus so I contacted Yoders Furnaces in Floyd VA that is a Heatmaster dealer. Mr Yoder is very knowledgeable and has been extremely helpful, and the only thing I bought from him was 2 tubes of silicone. Nice to know there are folks out there that are willing to offer help.

 

[wej52]

Canact, We had similar issues with an H2 that is at the old homeplace where my daughter lives. We found a couple of things. First the float switch failed and allowed the water level to drop before we caught it. We had our local rep replace that. He replaced the seal on the flapper like you described. If you get an air leak there it will cause the water to boil out. Third we cleaned out the air duct behind that flapper. Our rep told us that a leak in the flapper will allow creosote to build up and that can block the air flow as well as over time allow the water to over heat. It is part of my daughters weekly routine now to visually check the water level. I have also learned that air leaks can burn the gates out if allowed to continue. My brother accidentally left the bottom ash door open on his H2 and burned out a grate before he caught it. His is 30 years old and still going strong.

It certainly sounds like you are headed in the right direction.

And yes Mr. Yoder is a great guy. He has sold a lot of stoves in this area and provides great service.

We bought our stove used from an elderly neighbor just last year. Like any piece of machinery, each model stove has certain maintenance areas that need to be watched. I have no regrets with the Hardy and now that we understand it better, we will better care for it. W.Jones