gladhatter
ArboristSite Lurker
Long straight first cuts is the premium stuff to split and also last best. By far the best spilts as well if you are familiar with slitting rails or even if you are not. You can start a wedge in the end as was suggested but spilting them is a process as the other guy describbed and you follow the split down the log. Some cases more than Knot( pun intended) you are correcting the split down the log. The two bar method the one man described is also good. You also need a pole axe and or double bit and very sharp ones. Using a chainsaw with ripping or standard teeth is a possibility but not generally the one for the desired finished look.
All folks here also described using poles and plunge cuts etc. Not bad advise from the man from WVA but have you considered a more traditional stacked rail fence? These was more often a 12 feet rail and not post or holes are desired.
Then you have ask how big? Well when you get used to splitting you will find the bigger the better of course. After first split the hugher the better. Rest of the splits then are much easier after first. This is not childs play you understand nor for frail yungins or women. It is hard work and is made easier only with years of it and some patience and skills. If there are any 90 year old men around you they may can watch and advise you better.
See a log hughing kit on ebay some months ago and while it was every professional 200 year old tool needed for making a hughed log house, many of them would make your spliting easier as well but you do not require more than wedges and a hammer but sheap nose maul and axes and splitting mauls ( not really the modern ones) more blunt older ones specific to your needs makes the job much easier.
Hope some of this helps.
Again of all I have written here, large straight trees are your friend and no limbs for first 10 feet.
Finally talk to your customer and see if they would prefer sassyfrass if it is avaliable as it works easier and is lighter 10 times and will out last the locust in the same conditions .
Last suggestion is if they want blackgum or dog wood split for any reason you run just as hard as you can go.
Charlie
All folks here also described using poles and plunge cuts etc. Not bad advise from the man from WVA but have you considered a more traditional stacked rail fence? These was more often a 12 feet rail and not post or holes are desired.
Then you have ask how big? Well when you get used to splitting you will find the bigger the better of course. After first split the hugher the better. Rest of the splits then are much easier after first. This is not childs play you understand nor for frail yungins or women. It is hard work and is made easier only with years of it and some patience and skills. If there are any 90 year old men around you they may can watch and advise you better.
See a log hughing kit on ebay some months ago and while it was every professional 200 year old tool needed for making a hughed log house, many of them would make your spliting easier as well but you do not require more than wedges and a hammer but sheap nose maul and axes and splitting mauls ( not really the modern ones) more blunt older ones specific to your needs makes the job much easier.
Hope some of this helps.
Again of all I have written here, large straight trees are your friend and no limbs for first 10 feet.
Finally talk to your customer and see if they would prefer sassyfrass if it is avaliable as it works easier and is lighter 10 times and will out last the locust in the same conditions .
Last suggestion is if they want blackgum or dog wood split for any reason you run just as hard as you can go.
Charlie
