having big trouble narrowing down brands of portable mills

[qbilder]

Sounds like a fine fellow for sure. Too bad he has to deal with the copyright issues.

 

[Tim L]

We were welding structural on buildings.Cousineau is also out of Henniker, is that the same one? Sandy lived in Merrimac. I remember a hardware place in Amesbury that was a4 story brick building that had everything.

 

[chaikwa]

We were welding structural on buildings.Cousineau is also out of Henniker, is that the same one? Sandy lived in Merrimac. I remember a hardware place in Amesbury that was a4 story brick building that had everything.

I think that's the same Cousineau, yes. They moved the Plaistow mill to North Anson Maine.

The hardware store you're remembering is Amesbury Industrial Supply. If they don't have it, you don't need it! :hmm3grin2orange:

TraditionalTool;I'll have the video of my log anchoring system posted here shortly. Took some video this morning and I'm uploading it now.

 

[chaikwa]

Here ya go. I'm not a professional videographer and I was alone, so it's not as refined as I'd like.

I'm hoping posting a video here isn't a violation of any of the rules, but I didn't see anything regarding this in the rules.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKrEMOGv3sM&feature=youtu.be

 

[TraditionalTool]

Here ya go. I'm not a professional videographer and I was alone, so it's not as refined as I'd like.

I'm hoping posting a video here isn't a violation of any of the rules, but I didn't see anything regarding this in the rules.

LogDogs.wmv - YouTube

chaikwa,

That was a fine video showing your setup!

The portion you have that is based around the Linn design with the chain/spring is similar to what I've been thinking about doing, although I was thinking of using a piece of u-shaped iron that would ride on top of the cross member. I ran into problems sourcing a piece of u-shape iron that is 3" on the inner measurement.

That's a great looking bed/trailer you have made there, I'm not very good at metalworking so my hat is off to 'ya.

I have kind of a similar setup, although my vertical tubes do not rotate up, they just are adjustable and slide back and forth on the cross-tube that is welded in place. The previous owner did that...the problem with it is that he used a pneumatic impact gun to tighten/loosen the odd bolts he added to it, and had some type of special nut that could be used on the bolts. It's hard to get them cinched up.

When I saw Gary's video I thought, geez that sure looks quick with the chain and spring.

Thanks for taking the time to video that portion, I appreciate it.

 

[chaikwa]

Thanks for taking the time to video that portion, I appreciate it.

Anytime sir!

 

[Tim L]

It was an awesome video. Thanks for sharing.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Anytime sir!

Thanks again chaikwa, I went out today and bought some parts, just haven't figured out the dog portion yet which will ride on top of the cross member.

I might be able to just add a tang to my current dog setup, and let it slide on the cross tube that was put in place for it. It is kinda similar to your short tube, sans the piece to pinch the log...I got some springs and chain.

 

[hamish]

Here ya go. I'm not a professional videographer and I was alone, so it's not as refined as I'd like.

I'm hoping posting a video here isn't a violation of any of the rules, but I didn't see anything regarding this in the rules.

LogDogs.wmv - YouTube

Great video.

Next time you take one et one inside your millshed too!

Gotta remeber get springs and chain in town tomorrow.

 

[chaikwa]

Great video.

Next time you take one et one inside your millshed too!

I can do that! It'll be towards the end of the week tho as I'm out of town until Thursday teaching a class.

If I don't follow thru by then, REMIND ME!

I hate gettin' old!

 

[TraditionalTool]

The butt log was 30" x 10'. That's LARGE for only me with no loading equip. It didn't buckle or bow within that 10', so i'm not sure why it would over a longer log. It may. I don't know. But logic tells me if the cross bars can support that size of a log, then the length wouldn't matter. The cross bars, not the rails, are what supports the weight. If they are evenly spaced along the length of the track, then they'll support any length log that fits. Not arguing, just don't really see what you're saying. The track is supported from under, with continuity to the earth. It's not on an axle with jacks on the corners to support the weight. If that were the case, i'd be welding some rectangle tube under the length of the track to give that sag support.

qbilder,

Logic would tell you that...but when you start moving large logs around, there's a huge difference between 10' logs and 30' logs.

I'm not saying it would make a huge difference, but moving and setting down a 30' logs is much heavier than a 10' log.

Can you take a pic of your bed, I'd like to see how it is constructed. I am thinking about fabricating a section of bed to ride on a trailer. Ideally if I could fit a section of bed on a trailer, and carry my forklift on top with the bed between the tires, I'd have what I need to go a saw remotely. Being able to haul the forklift is a huge effort though, as it weighs just under 17,000 lbs.

 

[qbilder]

qbilder,

Logic would tell you that...but when you start moving large logs around, there's a huge difference between 10' logs and 30' logs.

I'm not saying it would make a huge difference, but moving and setting down a 30' logs is much heavier than a 10' log.

Can you take a pic of your bed, I'd like to see how it is constructed. I am thinking about fabricating a section of bed to ride on a trailer. Ideally if I could fit a section of bed on a trailer, and carry my forklift on top with the bed between the tires, I'd have what I need to go a saw remotely. Being able to haul the forklift is a huge effort though, as it weighs just under 17,000 lbs.

I understand that, no argument on that point. My only catch is understanding why a 30' log would be harder on a bed than a 10' log given that the log is supported every few feet by a cross member, which distributes the weight evenly. Moving a 30' log is infinitely more challenging than moving a 10' log. But once on the bed, it causes no more stress than a 10 footer.

Yeah i'll get pics. I'm looking at doing the same thing. Mine has a 20' track that I want to mount to a trailer. I'm looking at a 20' flat bed car hauler with the ramps hinged on the back. The idea is to solid mount the mill to it and be able to pull the ATV's &/or tractor on with it, over the track.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Moving a 30' log is infinitely more challenging than moving a 10' log. But once on the bed, it causes no more stress than a 10 footer.

The problem is getting it on the bed. In the best world you would have 2 people, both with cant hooks and would ease that puppy on the bed.

Now, in reality most people would use some type of lift. It's when you set the log down that you notice such a difference between 10' and 30', and if your REALLY careful you can ease it down on the bed...but a 30' log has a tendency to bounce/shake the bed when it is put down. This especially holds true if you don't have the sawmill permanently setup. My sawmill bed is much heavier than yours, and I have seen this. I have knocked the bed with the forklift, have hit it with logs, and once backed into the sawmill bed with the forklift as I was backing up. Maybe if I had a bigger yard that wouldn't be a much concern.

My experience when milling large 30' logs is that it's easy to snag an end on the sawmill bed and knock it around, but all of our mileage varies. This can easily happen when you try to reposition a log that is not completely straight. There are more variables when you need to reposition the log. At least speaking for myself, it can be difficult to turn a 30' log on a sawmill bed, especially by yourself. Even when you use slings as I do, they don't often end up centered on the log, even given your best guess. The nature of the beast, IMO. Also, the logs don't roll perfectly so when you have a long log it's more difficult to get it to roll uniformly. Hydraulics are not always smooth. They can often be jerky as you are setting something down. At least mine are on my forklift.

Yeah i'll get pics. I'm looking at doing the same thing. Mine has a 20' track that I want to mount to a trailer. I'm looking at a 20' flat bed car hauler with the ramps hinged on the back. The idea is to solid mount the mill to it and be able to pull the ATV's &/or tractor on with it, over the track.

Yes, I've come to the conclusion that most of the "portable sawmills" which are trailer-able are just NOT hefty enough for a long road trip, if it was needed. A trailer, OTOH, is setup for such a road trip and can carry lumber on the way back. Moving into a Woodmizer LT40 type setup would be better, but as you know, at a price. I figure it's cheaper to find a trailer and turn that into a portable sawmill with a section of track mounted to it.

Ideally I'd like a section that can be used with my current sawmill bed, to extend it, or be able to use by itself on a trailer.

 

[qbilder]

The only issue I can think of with the trailer is the wheels wells. Gonna be tough to get logs over. I think a winch could be mounted in the front of the trailer and a simple roller system or dolly under the front of the log would allow for it to be skidded up on the mill. The dolly would be an easy fab, but would have to be wide enough to clear the track. Otherwise ramps high enough to clear the wheel wells and a par buckle system can be used. Good thing is that the car hauling trailers are low profile, not too high off the ground.

 

[qbilder]

I'll have to measure. Will do that at daylight.

 

[Tim L]

View attachment 218911 Sorry to be out of sequence but here is the inside the farm stand pic I talked about above.

 

[Tim L]

View attachment 218912 another pic.

 

[hunterbuild]

I stared the thread on the Hf Mill. I built my track so I can pick it up with my skid steer and hang it on the side of my trailer. Then I can load my skid steer and saw head and go down the road. I have an 18' trailer. This will work best for me, only one trip and all my stuff.

 

[alha]

View attachment 218912 another pic.

I'm new to the sawing of lumber, but did have a basic question. Did you dry the lumber before you started building the stand? I've read that building with green lumber can cause issues down the road when it dries. Is this accurate? Thanks!

 

[Tim L]

We didn't dry the lumber but we cut it during the winter and built in the spring.There is Shrinkage which is why you see board/batten to cover the gaps.As for the Hardwood floor we stickered that on a trailer,painted the ends of the board to seal them and aired dried through the summer into fall in a field with a constant breeze covered by metal roofing.Hemlock hardens as it dries making nailing more difficult so green is good. Hope that answers your question.