Heavy leaner

[sand sock]

A friend needs this tree down. I told him I need a bit longer bar (24inch) . The tree is 30 inch oak. Up about 15 there is a see through crack. I don't think it's rotted or hollow.

My plan is a shallow notch on the forward.

My question is. Do I do a bore cut to release or do I chase the kerf and do a slow fall. I think it's a pin oak. A bore cut would let it fall fast. A relief cut, let's it bend. If it starts to barber chair. It's not a big deal. But I think it's going to bend and slow hinge. I don't think the crack above will rip and split. It feels solid. I know with the canopy it's going to roll some. It's a big tree. He wants it down because the grandkids play in the woods . I don't think it's that bad, 4-5 hours removing a couple small maples. Then smashing the last. I'm leaning chasing the cut and walking away, when the indicator wedge starts to move.

 

[Sierra_rider]

If there was a place to use a bore cut, it would be that tree. For me, I'd probably just grab one of my large saws(066,880) and just try to pour the coals to it in the back cut. I admittedly almost never side-bore trees.

I don't really know that species of oak, but our oak out here doesn't seem to be too prone to chairing. The caveat to this is if you have a bar long enough to do it from one side and a saw powerful enough to keep the speed up in the back cut. If nothing else, a side-bore would be the safest option.

 

[butter]

let us know how it goes. I have some Polaroid film if you send me a SASE

 

[woodfarmer]

Ya, terrible picture from the ’70s.
The seam looks to be on the leaning side of the tree which is a good thing as your felling in that direction which lessons the chance of it chairing.