hello and thank you

[mwrunt]

Well i am a newb at all this and found you guys by fluke and i curse you and appreciate u all at the same time. So here goes i move into the woods and buy acreage for cheap in the cariboo its in bc which is in canada for the yanks and beyond. So i decide i need a chainsaw to clear the property of 4 foot diameter Douglas fir to build a shop .
Well being a doit yourselfer i think i will do it myself :jawdrop: so i start looking at saws becouse my poulan electric aint going to cut it. So the next dump run i find a remington super 754 and out of curiosity i grab it and throw it in my smart car well low and behold when i get it home it fires rite up and blows my eardrums. So now to find a bar and chain as it is missing from the saw. So hop in the car and down to Exiter forest marine and i drop the saw on the counter and ask for a bar and chain. Someone in the back must of told a joke couse the whole place burst into laughter.
Well after all settled down they told me none were available so i leave a little disappointed and look to the internet and find this site and this is where all hell brakes loose i find a post about milling and the gears in my head turn and i am off in the smart car and buy a 48 inch alasken a used husky 2100 a echo 330t and a 54 inch bar so 1300 dollars later a couple cases of beer to bribe my neighbor to teach me so i dont kill myself we fall 37 trees in 4 days and start milling in my driveway.
Well what i am saying is thank you for the info as i have spent hours reading posts and researching how to mill and build a timber frame. so next spring i will assemble my shop out of my stunning 8 by 8 timbers 8 of which are 27 feet long.
So heres what i need now i have searched and maybe this is something i am completely useless at couse i have read several articles but cansomeone please post a step by step on how to sharpen a milling chain properly. I have done my own and it is sharper but i cant get it ito cut like when i get the chain back from the sawfiler.
O and ps i just got the old bar of the husky mounted on the remington and wow what a saw it mite earn itsel a place on the alasken mill so i can use the husky for firewood.

 

[dingeryote]

LOL!!!!

I don't think I have ever heard of any disease, that strikes and consumes the victim as effectively as CAD.

The next obvious sign is shopping for a proper used woodhauler/pickup, so hide the wallet and checkbook ASAP!



Pics of the project when ya get goin', or it never happened!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[BobL]

. . . . .

So heres what i need now i have searched and maybe this is something i am completely useless at couse i have read several articles but cansomeone please post a step by step on how to sharpen a milling chain properly. I have done my own and it is sharper but i cant get it ito cut like when i get the chain back from the sawfiler.
O and ps i just got the old bar of the husky mounted on the remington and wow what a saw it mite earn itsel a place on the alasken mill so i can use the husky for firewood.

Welcome aboard.It sounds like you have come a long way already.

Regarding sharpening a chain there are many methods used for sharpening from naked file to full on automated chain grinder so giving you a step by step for all these is a bit difficult.

Two general principles to look for include;
1) Sharpen the cutter edge to a "no glint" rather than just "feel" see here.
2) The rakers should be lowered progressively lower as the cutter gets shorter. Using a Carlton File-O-Plate (FOP) produces a more progressive raker depth that the standard depth gauges. For a simple description of this look here.

 

[FJH]

Also would like to add that you need to try and keep the tooth sizes simular!
you don't want one tooth higher than the other! especially on one side!
always look back,compare size of tooth to the tooth you have just sharpen as best you can.and then when you switch ides compare to the the other side you just sharpened!

 

[gr8scott72]

This is my personal favorite tool to help hand-sharpen a chain:

http://international.husqvarna.com/node3004.aspx?nid=71090&pid=21032

You can usually find them at Lowes.

 

[woodsrunner]

??????????????
WTH?

Scott

 

[billstuewe]

The Logosol website has some good info:

http://www.logosol.com/cms/downloads/handbok_skarutrustning_uk_081121.pdf

And the Stihl website:

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf

Remember to EMSOB--Eat the Meat and Spit Out the Bones--some things will be brand specific and may not apply to your equipment, but lots will.
Here is a picture of my vise I made to hold the saw while I sharpen with a file. I use the Pferd holder shown on the Logosol site to hand file. The black lines on top are 10º guides and the vise is mounted on a piece of plywood so I can take it with me

 

[mtngun]

So i decide i need a chainsaw to clear the property of 4 foot diameter Douglas fir to build a shop .

That's the kind of problem I wish I had. 4 foot dougs grow like weeds, eh ?

post a step by step on how to sharpen a milling chain properly.

I have better luck with a grinder, but sometimes use a file to touch up between grindings.

Chances are your sawfiler is using a grinder.

I'm looking forward to seeing pics of your shop construction.

 

[Brmorgan]

This is my personal favorite tool to help hand-sharpen a chain:

http://international.husqvarna.com/node3004.aspx?nid=71090&pid=21032

You can usually find them at Lowes.

I've seen those at my local saw shop but they don't come with much for instructions - in fact I think some of them are just hanging naked on a peg hook for sale. How exactly do you use them? I haven't been able to figure them out just by looking at them yet.

 

[mwrunt]

thanks for the replys and bill i think you solved my filing problem as i dont think i was taking enough off and leaving the glint thing.
as for the wood truck i got that one coverd as i found a beater ford ranger 4x4 and threw in some airbags and welded up a headache rack with a roller on the back so we can put the longer beams on the top. The next adithion will be a slide so i can skid the beams up there with a winch.
As for pics i will take some and try post them up tomorrow if i can figure it out but rite now its just a mess of sawdust and some 8x8 timbers. I will not be able to pour concrete till spring as it is hiting -36 here some days and we havnt been warmer then -5 since mid november
I wish all the trees were 4 foot round but there are only six that big but the rest are still a substantial size.
One more ? i just got in from milling some boards and thought i would try out the old remington and it seams to cut alot faster then the husky 2100 even though the husky is 11cc bigger and pulls 2500 more rpm and runs a 3/8 chain instead of a 404 is there somthing wrong with my husky or are older tourqier saws better.

 

[gr8scott72]

I've seen those at my local saw shop but they don't come with much for instructions - in fact I think some of them are just hanging naked on a peg hook for sale. How exactly do you use them? I haven't been able to figure them out just by looking at them yet.

You fit them angled on the chain. Then you just roll the file through the cutter across the rollers of the file guide. They are set up for 35° angle so I just have to guess for the 10° I use on the ripping chain. If that doesn't clear it up for you, I can snap a quick picture next time I think about it.

I think the different colors are for different chains. The blue is 3/8, the white is .325, and the gold one is, well, I don't know what it is. Maybe .404?

 

[BobL]

One more ? i just got in from milling some boards and thought i would try out the old remington and it seams to cut alot faster then the husky 2100 even though the husky is 11cc bigger and pulls 2500 more rpm and runs a 3/8 chain instead of a 404 is there somthing wrong with my husky or are older tourqier saws better.

It sounds like you have a chain sharpening problem.

 

[mwrunt]

It sounds like you have a chain sharpening problem.

i thought so at first couse the remington had a brand new 404 chain so i threw the brand new 3/8 chain on the husky and gave her a go and the remington pulled way harder. the only differnce was the remington has a 24 in bar and the husky had a 37 in bar both brand new stihl chains.

 

[Andrew96]

No matter what chain and bar combo...all they do is 'guide' a cutter. If the 'set' of cutters are not perfect..it won't work as well. If you think you spent a lot of time reading before....double that and you might scratch the surface of cutter geometry.
I'll vote sharpening issue as well.

 

[BobL]

i thought so at first couse the remington had a brand new 404 chain so i threw the brand new 3/8 chain on the husky and gave her a go and the remington pulled way harder. the only differnce was the remington has a 24 in bar and the husky had a 37 in bar both brand new stihl chains.

Now I'd be checking the compression on the Husky, that thing should rip with a 37" bar.

 

[mwrunt]

Now I'd be checking the compression on the Husky, that thing should rip with a 37" bar.

what should the compression be at i hope its good as there are not many parts still availible for this saw. I have a feeling my wallet mite be getting a little lighter or the remington will be getting the big bar.

 

[BobL]

what should the compression be at i hope its good as there are not many parts still availible for this saw. I have a feeling my wallet mite be getting a little lighter or the remington will be getting the big bar.

130 PSI or more when warmed up

 

[gemniii]

Also look on the chain sharpening part of this site.

Check your rakers, mine were "set" to factory height, I took a few thousandths off and they were much better.

I got a Granberg file'n joint for Christmas, it lets me set the angles fairly accurately.

I've been doing a routine of two or three freehand "touch ups" and then a careful grind with the Granberg.

Reminds me - I need to go "touch up" the chain

 

[BlueRider]

One more ? i just got in from milling some boards and thought i would try out the old remington and it seams to cut alot faster then the husky 2100 even though the husky is 11cc bigger and pulls 2500 more rpm and runs a 3/8 chain instead of a 404 is there somthing wrong with my husky or are older tourqier saws better.

The older saws are usually longer stroke and smaller bore than the same displacement new saw. this will mean more torque and lower rpm for the older saws but the advantage they have is that the power band is wider. the new saws need to be kept as close to max rpm as possible for them to have full powe as the prms drop the power falls off a clif. the older saws will still have plenty of grunt at low rpm with some of the biger ones having so much that they are almost impossible to bog down and stall the chain.

In practice you will not be able to push as hard on the husky nor can you lower the depth rakers on the chain as much as you can on the remington. also it is very important to keep the air filter clean which should be easier on the husky. cutting through that doug fir bark can be harsh on filters.

I prefer the old saws and use a 111cc monster. that said, if both saws are tuned and running sharp chain they should cut about the same with the husky having a slight edge in speed over the remington.

I just remembered something. what size rim sprocket does each saw have? this is the drive sprocket for the chain and will have 7-9 pins. this also affects milling speed.

 

[mwrunt]

well i was out playing with the saws today and drug out a massive piece of fir10 nfeet long 38 round with the kubota skid steer dumper and started working on it. After i cut my slab with the husky i milled a pass with both saws and sure enough the husky did cut a little faster but not by much if any. cant be to accurate timing the passes with my watch.
But i find the remington is easier to control and a lot harder to bog down. The husky takes a little faness to keep the revs up which which i think was my problem before i was boggong down to much.
If its not to cold tomorrow and i can get the skidsteer started i am going to try pull out a 2o foot section but i dont think the little skidder will have enough weight behind it to pull that log so i dont know if i will get at it till i clean up the mess around it

The older saws are usually longer stroke and smaller bore than the same displacement new saw. this will mean more torque and lower rpm for the older saws but the advantage they have is that the power band is wider. the new saws need to be kept as close to max rpm as possible for them to have full powe as the prms drop the power falls off a clif. the older saws will still have plenty of grunt at low rpm with some of the biger ones having so much that they are almost impossible to bog down and stall the chain.

In practice you will not be able to push as hard on the husky nor can you lower the depth rakers on the chain as much as you can on the remington. also it is very important to keep the air filter clean which should be easier on the husky. cutting through that doug fir bark can be harsh on filters.

I prefer the old saws and use a 111cc monster. that said, if both saws are tuned and running sharp chain they should cut about the same with the husky having a slight edge in speed over the remington.

I just remembered something. what size rim sprocket does each saw have? this is the drive sprocket for the chain and will have 7-9 pins. this also affects milling speed.