I was running a short bar on my first one - think it was 13". Good for small and dirty wood - quick to sharpen. When I got another one I put a 15" bar/chain on it - that's ideal for the saw and for the majority of the cutting I do.
Hello everybody, heres a guy with 242XP project on his mind
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I was running a short bar on my first one - think it was 13". Good for small and dirty wood - quick to sharpen. When I got another one I put a 15" bar/chain on it - that's ideal for the saw and for the majority of the cutting I do.
tramp bushler
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This thread has got me to thinking about the regressive saw development that Stihl and Husky do . I view the 242 as the peak of small saw development . It was a better saw than the 333+444 Huskies . The 246+346 hadn't come out yet .
Rpm , and lots of it . Smooth , streamlined and light weight .
I had a couple 44 Huskies . They were good saws but not as good as the 242 .
Rpm , and lots of it . Smooth , streamlined and light weight .
I had a couple 44 Huskies . They were good saws but not as good as the 242 .
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ChainFinn
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Here she is with 15" bar.
One attempt on muffler modding, its cut and gutted and has an 16 millimeter diameter piece of some pipe. Made a diference in performance.
Loud pipes save lives
( but this aint that loud at all)
Andrew Wellman
ArboristSite Operative
sell it to me
I have one and I left it stock, tune correctly you won't want for much more. I love this saw and would buy or trade yours off of yo u before you cut into it. I used mine in the woods yesterday for about hrs. I have a Dolma 117, Jonsered 910e, and Jonsered 630 I would trade you even. All run well.
andy
1802-371-9933.
I have one and I left it stock, tune correctly you won't want for much more. I love this saw and would buy or trade yours off of yo u before you cut into it. I used mine in the woods yesterday for about hrs. I have a Dolma 117, Jonsered 910e, and Jonsered 630 I would trade you even. All run well.
andy
1802-371-9933.
So,
this is my first post here, and i think it would be nice to start with chainsaw topic, aint it ?
I am not an arborist, sorry, but i do work at the moment for official Husky & Jonsered shop as a mechanic ( just an employee ).
Today i got a new "toy" home, this being a Husqvarna 242 XP. It came in as a trash, something we could use for spare parts, as its previous owner determined it when he bought a new chainsaw. We tend to get museum-old chainsaws ad then these not-so-old chainsaws, some are running, some are basket cases etc, but today i just could not believe that This saw was a junk in his opinion. So, i threw it in my car trunk, its better than a trash can anyways. Just some hour ago, i took it a bit a part and i think this is a small gem, as its suspiciously clean, and not bashed badly at all. I took the muffler out, to see the piston condition and theres not a single scratch, the old spark plug had a nice dry, greyish tone, the air filter was super clean for a "user" that we see everyday, and yet its not cleaned for our eyes. Maybe its owner was a good one who cleaned his saw well, as they are supposed to, or this hasnt been running that much at all, who knows, i dont. It had a good compression of about 153 psi when hot, is i can trust to old measuring device we have :msp_razz:
Anyways, i was thinking of converting this in to "g" model with hand warmers, but the factory spare part / repair book i read, says that the flywheel is a different, in xpG models. I do have several handles with heating elements, plus proper swithces, plus an "arctic" kit, a blue three piece set, for use in winter, when its colder than -15 celsius. So, if the flywheels the problem, i think i could scavenge it from some other junksaw, but then....after all...i do have a 351g and a 154 with warm handles too.
Then i started to look for modification topics through websites and forums, and thats how i found my way here. I think here was a lot of modding topics.
The first queston that i have, is what is the most cost effective way to get a bit more juice out of my tiny xp engine. I am not familiar a lot, with chainsaw mods, but i have played a good amount of time, with motocross & trial bikes and such and i think i am quite handy too. I have tig welder, lathe and a mill to use, and thanks to my work, a pretty good supply of new, as well as used chainsaw parts to use.
- Would it be wise, after regular service ( air filter, gas tank filter, spark plug, carb cleaning and a new gasket & membrane kit ) to start from muffler?
Its pretty restricted to keep volumes down, but i could split it easily, drill maybe some holes, or weld something to make it flow better, never mind the noise. I dont want to go to fitting bike exhaust´s as they pretty much seem to prevent doing actual woodcutting in the forest. I do limb and fell all sorts of woods, but this is small saw, so it will be used on smaller diameter stuff. I am not dreaming of any major increase in torque since this saw buzzes in a high rev quire. But maybe something could be achieved with better exhaust flow, paired with a re-setted carb. Right now, i can tune this to yeld the factory claimed 15.500, but i tuned it down to about 14.300, as its then seems to chew wood better.
-Then, have you tried to fit in a carb with bigger venturi / jet parts from some other, bigger chainsaw......246 migth have bigger carb if i remember it right.
-Porting / piston mods? Is there a possibility to file the piston in a certain way to change durations, and how, anyone tried this and happened to take pictures ?
.....i am very very greatful for any help and tips, people.
If it fails to be potential to be modified, i might have a few...like 20 boxes of chainsaw wrecks, to be used, to assemble one working frankensaw. Sadly in most cases.....yes, cases indeed, the lower ends are worn, broke, bearing jammed etc :msp_mellow:
Theres mostly Huskies and Jonsereds and all off them are older ones, i dont know why they dont bring after-millenium saws for spare part-uses ....or for tinkering
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
I am from over seas country, the shipping ,might be massive i am afraid, and if i would trade my saw for some, it would have to be something with 60+cc engine, and husqvarna, as its about the easiest brand, when it comes to the repairing and part supply.
tramp bushler
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sounds good .
. ya, get it in some wood! :msp_thumbup:
.
I guess, running that length bar that. 325 chain would stay on the bar pretty good.
. ya, get it in some wood! :msp_thumbup:
.
I guess, running that length bar that. 325 chain would stay on the bar pretty good.
TraditionalTool
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just put a 242xp together, I had bought it and a 42 special from an AS member and hadn't messed with it too much. These run like a raped ape...I don't have mine totally dialed in yet, and haven't modified the muffler, but this saw screams!
My new favorite saw!
I have 1/4" pitch 10SC chain running on a 16" Cannon Carver quarter tip bar. I use it for dovetail work on logs.
PS - on a bad note, I seized up my 359 cutting with the saw angled a bit upside down...lesson learned...and what caused me to get this 242xp going. Now I have a 359 ready for a project!
My new favorite saw!
I have 1/4" pitch 10SC chain running on a 16" Cannon Carver quarter tip bar. I use it for dovetail work on logs.
PS - on a bad note, I seized up my 359 cutting with the saw angled a bit upside down...lesson learned...and what caused me to get this 242xp going. Now I have a 359 ready for a project!
Finn,
Since you have that burned out 357, consider putting a 272 top end on it. Should make one heck of a good runner.
Since you have that burned out 357, consider putting a 272 top end on it. Should make one heck of a good runner.
Andrew Wellman
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Your echoes
I just saw all of to your echo, and want to hear your thoughts on Each one. I ported a 4600 and loved it.
I just saw all of to your echo, and want to hear your thoughts on Each one. I ported a 4600 and loved it.
Stihl Crazy
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I ported a few 246's and 242's. A 262 carb was the carb they seemed to like. Got them to run with a stock 346 OE. Still have a good 246 cyl around somewhere.
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
Man...oh man...
would it be possible to a little trades or something, so that i could a get a ported 24xp cylinder from you...or anyone ?
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
the burned 357 was bummer....i finally got it running and like 2 weeks after it, the piston melted all around the exhaust port....
so i REALLY woul like to know, whats the good cylinder to replace the original with?
It really could be with bigger volume, but i am open for any suggestions, may it be OEM or aftermarket c&p kit.
the OEM complete cylinder & piston kit, with all the gaskets,plug, decomp valve is the only way to buy the cylinder,its not sold separatately nor with JUST the piston with it. This kit has a part number # 537 24 85-02
which cost 209,50 EUROS, and the piston with rings is # 537 21 96-02
which then costs 94.60 EUROS.
The 372 cylinder kit for ´2007 372, the kit #503 62 64-73 costs 393.60 EUROS :confused2:...which is way to much for my wallet.
anyone happen to have c&p of 372 in usable condition might be the next question . It seems to have 36mm stroke and 50mm bore, so fitting a 372 cylinder to 357 lower end that has 34mm stroke would make it closet o 67 cm3 size ?...but how does the 372 cylider retrofit to 357, does it need spacers, machinign, will the carb fit and such ?
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ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
Today, i was scavenging plasdtic winter kit covers from another 242, to be used on my own 24xp, and when i opened the starter cover to remove the parts, i noticed a weird little part, that was attached to the starter cover, with small bolt, going through a small hole drilled by some previous owner in the past. I started to look out, to find what the heck this tiny electric gadget is, and all i can find out, that its marketed atleasdt under "Forte" brandname, and that its some "universal ignition module"....and one of the codes for ordering one, seems to be "8r23-08".....the saw that inheld this thingy, had its own ignition coil , but the wires were pulled off so i dont know, how the ignition module was attached, and why.....?????
its just like this :
http://www.tmi-janikaasalainen.fi/images/8R23-08.jpg
View attachment 241681
The screw seems to work as ground ? and the two attacment points for wires are marked with + and -
Is it to be used, with an ignition thats broken in some special way, or to bypass rev.limiter or what,i donno but maybe some of you might help me with this. Thank you !
its just like this :
http://www.tmi-janikaasalainen.fi/images/8R23-08.jpg
View attachment 241681
The screw seems to work as ground ? and the two attacment points for wires are marked with + and -
Is it to be used, with an ignition thats broken in some special way, or to bypass rev.limiter or what,i donno but maybe some of you might help me with this. Thank you !
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
Ok,
but how do you connect the module, would you happen to know ? The saw, that had this attached, did not have mechanical ignition points,, so i am bit confused.
rbmopar
ArboristSite Operative
The 357 and 359 are the same chassis saw, and you can swap top ends between them. Nothing else will work to my knowledge. For darn sure you can't use a 272 or 372 jug, way different.
ChainFinn
ArboristSite Operative
Yep, i do know that the 359 jug is easy to fit in, but that suggestion of 372 top end really got me thinking...
in any case, the OEM p/c kits are pretty pricey...atleast now for me, but then again, i dont have any hurry to get it running, too much chainsaw projects all around :msp_biggrin:
in any case, the OEM p/c kits are pretty pricey...atleast now for me, but then again, i dont have any hurry to get it running, too much chainsaw projects all around :msp_biggrin:
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