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Ok, I'll let it be..

It'll be a bit of a learning curve, but I'll figure it out...... This whole thing is an experiment..

Your welcome, do you guys send out free coffee cups, hats, t-shirts, ect ???
When should I look for that in the mail ?? hehe
Any update on your stove? Have you used it a little bit at night or anything?

I've made my calls and I'm going to place my order for a King within the next week.
 
Any updates @showrguy? How are you liking your new stove?
Welp,,,, my source for "dry" wood for this year did'nt pan out, so my sense of urgency has greatly diminished..
I do have about 1 1/2 cords of dry wood here, and hope to finish the install next week ..
I was gonna get it done this week but it's been raining, so it's too wet to be walking around on a 8/12 pitch roof...
 
Chris welcome to AS good to see you here.
Tonight I am trying something for the first time, the temp outside here is 37* freaking heat wave up here going to be 57* Christmas day !!
I am going to run a load for the first time with the blower off Thermostat on 1.5 or so. From what I have read online and in the manual (I think) using the blower, by virtue of cooling the deck thus cooling the cat thermometer,.. the burn times can be reduced.
Sorry for the run on sentence. Will running the blower shorten run/ burn times? I guess I am just infatuated with having a blower is all. Since I was a kid and heating our 21 room farm house with a Modern Glenwood I have always wanted a stove with a blower. My latest stove an Old Mill 25 did not have one either so I am very new ( since October) using a blower. Jeff
 
Chris welcome to AS good to see you here.
Tonight I am trying something for the first time, the temp outside here is 37* freaking heat wave up here going to be 57* Christmas day !!
I am going to run a load for the first time with the blower off Thermostat on 1.5 or so. From what I have read online and in the manual (I think) using the blower, by virtue of cooling the deck thus cooling the cat thermometer,.. the burn times can be reduced.
Sorry for the run on sentence. Will running the blower shorten run/ burn times? I guess I am just infatuated with having a blower is all. Since I was a kid and heating our 21 room farm house with a Modern Glenwood I have always wanted a stove with a blower. My latest stove an Old Mill 25 did not have one either so I am very new ( since October) using a blower. Jeff
Yes, blower will reduce burn times. The beauty of a thermostatic stove. Fans cool it and stat opens to try to keep stove hot which burns more wood. It's good to have the blowers.
 
This morning when I got up the stove was no longer in the active zone and over 50% of the wood was still in there. When I filled it I set the thermostat to the " closed " position where you hear the click at about 1.5 or so. I thought the thermostat was supposed to open as needed to keep producing heat?
 
"Supposed to", but it's hardly accurate as some people think it might be, at least on my stove. Very common on mine to have the stove going cold and still have some wood in there that comes to life by turning the draft up.

I've been thinking of tearing it out and adding an actual damper control that works off room and stove temp.

this HTML class. Value is https://m.facebook.c

Eh frig this got DAMN website...stupid thing won't let me put links, instead gives that bullcrap.

The place is Inven Inc on the Facebook.
 
absolutely, I just opened the door for a moment turned the thermo up to wide open and 2 min later all was fine. That said I guess It was a good thing it was not cold out. I am pretty sure it was something that I did not do correctly. I have never owned a catalyst stove so all this is very new to me.
 
Nope, just the damper doesn't move all that much on its own. It's more the design of the stove exhaust and large firebox that allows for a long burn, not so much the "auto" damper.
 
Purely a guess but maybe the thermostatic air damper has a fine adjustment on it so when it is fully closed there is still some fresh air coming in to maintain a low burn. I know my current stove does. The thermostatic damper has something that resembles the air control on a charcoal BBQ lid so when the damper is fully shut it allows enough to maintain a fire. All I have to do is remove the cage around the damper and I can access it to adjust it. It's not something that gets adjusted normally though.
 
This morning when I got up the stove was no longer in the active zone and over 50% of the wood was still in there. When I filled it I set the thermostat to the " closed " position where you hear the click at about 1.5 or so. I thought the thermostat was supposed to open as needed to keep producing heat?

If your cat was not active and you had that much wood left, you need to set your t-stat higher. Setting the t-stat on 1.5 is too low for our stove. Try setting it on "2" unless the stove is producing more heat than you want at that setting. Set on "2", our stove works awesome, keeping the house 70-73 degrees for 24 hrs. And contrary to what others will tell you, the auto damper not only works but works excellent!

BTW: Do you just load your wood, set the t-stat and walk away?
 
I load it open the thermostat all the way and if need be leave the cracked open. If the cat is active I will close that too. Then I set a timer for 20 min so I don't forget the stove. Then after 20 min I set the thermo to what ever I want usually 2.5 or 3 maybe 3.5 and then walk away.
 
I load it open the thermostat all the way and if need be leave the cracked open. If the cat is active I will close that too. Then I set a timer for 20 min so I don't forget the stove. Then after 20 min I set the thermo to what ever I want usually 2.5 or 3 maybe 3.5 and then walk away.

Ok, I'm very confused. You're setting the t-stat to "2.5 or 3 maybe 3.5" for normal, all day/night operation? And with the t-stat set that high, your cat will go inactive and you still have wood left in the stove? Something isn't right here. Now you got me really thinking... Can you explain more about the wood you are burning (type and seasoning). Also, what kind of pipe setup do you have? Straight up vertical? How high? Do you feel like you have enough draft? What is the square footage of your home and is it well insulated?
 
Yes you are confused, when the stove went inactive I had set the thermo to closed like I said in the initial post. To me your question inferred " so normally what do you do" not the one time you tried something different for the first time like I said in the initial post


The stove has NEVER gone inactive when set at 2-3.5 only when I set it to the " Clink " closed position. So I though the thermo was supposed to open if needed and it obviously did not. I closed it like at the 1.5 lets say and basically the fire went so low the cat was in-active.

So it seems to me that the closed position where I hear the thermo " clink" that setting is too low and will not be of any use to me. If I had turned the thermo to the closed position then back open a fraction,.. it would have run but,... set to the closed position It let the fire go very low to the point of producing almost no heat.
 
Yes you are confused, when the stove went inactive I had set the thermo to closed like I said in the initial post. To me your question inferred " so normally what do you do" not the one time you tried something different for the first time like I said in the initial post


The stove has NEVER gone inactive when set at 2-3.5 only when I set it to the " Clink " closed position. So I though the thermo was supposed to open if needed and it obviously did not. I closed it like at the 1.5 lets say and basically the fire went so low the cat was in-active.

So it seems to me that the closed position where I hear the thermo " clink" that setting is too low and will not be of any use to me. If I had turned the thermo to the closed position then back open a fraction,.. it would have run but,... set to the closed position It let the fire go very low to the point of producing almost no heat.

You can't turn the t-stat down that far and expect it to open enough to heat your house, or maybe even keep burning.

This is my advise so take it for what it's worth with me being an amateur. STOP worrying or even thinking about the "clink". It means NOTHING to us as wood burners. You may need to change the way you think about the t-stat. I think of it the same way I think of a gas furnace in a house. If you want your house to be 70*, set the t-stat to 70*. This is the same for your stove. We like our house to be 70-73* and our stove keeps the house at that temp with the t-stat set at "2". Unless it's really cold outside in which case, we would raise the t-stat slightly.

Find the number on your t-stat that keeps your house the temp your family likes and set it there. It's really very simple.

EDIT: Keep in mind, the t-stat is VERY SENSITIVE. Once you find where you like to run it, say "2" for example, a small movement up or down (as little as 1/8") will significantly change the amount of heat your stove produces. I'm sure @bkvp could give a better explanation of how it works.
 
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So it seems to me that the closed position where I hear the thermo " clink" that setting is too low and will not be of any use to me. If I had turned the thermo to the closed position then back open a fraction,.. it would have run but,... set to the closed position It let the fire go very low to the point of producing almost no heat.

Now you get it. You set the stat too low. The stat will not override your setting. Pay no attention to the clack sound of the flapper closing because that occurs at different stat settings depending on temperature. Instead use the dial to set the stat.

My set up will stall the cat if I set the stat below the normal gold zone.
 
I agree it is all new to me and the advice you give is good. I just was experimenting is all the normal range so far has been 2-3.5 we have had very few cold weather days so far.

"3.5" is the highest t-stat setting. If we ran our stove at that setting, the cat would be 1500-1700* and would run us out of the house in short order.
 

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