Hey guys, my programmable tachometer on my Tornado 13 went blank yesterday, checked the manual, says check fuse, and a couple of wires. Find out it's the fuse...change it, blows not long after. It's the 7.5 amp one from the tachometer. Put a 10 amp on it and that lasted a bit longer. I am sure there is a bad wire somewhere, any suggestions? Anything would help.
Help, blowing morbark fuse...
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treemandan
Tree Freak
if you have the manual then trace the wires and check. Also check resistance of each circuit and each item the wires go to. Should be a spec for that in the manual. Maybe the tach is bad, how old is the machine?
Grace Tree
Impossible Access
Just a possibility. Make sure every ground is good. We were burning up ignition coils on every job on our 2070. Sometimes they'd last a couple of hours and sometimes 10 minutes. A guy suggested that we check the grounds. I went ahead and replaced the battery cables and made sure all the other grounds were good. Problem gone. I hope. May be worth a try.
Phil
Phil
Ok, thanks guys. I think I've narrowed it down to the autofeed/reverse selenoids heating up. But the fuses I have on those wires are a bit larger, hence blowing my other fuses. It's only when I power up to full throttle, engaging the autofeed, then it trips. Thanks for the help, definately going to check your ideas out.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Meaning, it was able to deliver excessive current to something for a little longer, which means that component WILL FAIL sooner than it would have if you had stayed with the correct fuse. That "sooner" can be anything from "right now" to months or years down the road, but it will always be sooner than it should have.
Never substitute a larger fuse.
How may times did it happen and was the machine extra hot that day?
It happened once, with the correct fuse, and again later with a slightly larger fuse, which I used to get by. As far as hot, not at all, it's was about 18 degrees Farenheight, (yes, 18). Motor temp was good. Going to take apart the selenoid tomorrow with correct fuses, and see how it goes.
VA-Sawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
Had a similar problem blowing the fuse on a Morbark 2100D. Traced it to corrision in the safety switch on top of machine. The one that you have to pull the pin to open the access door to the blades. It had gotten water in it and there was corrision bridged between the hot and case ground.
Rick
Rick
Toddppm
Addicted to ArboristSite
We have the same problem with our Bandit safety switch blowing that fuse too. I haven't found the problem yet though?
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
you've had good advice from most of the other posters here....
blown fuses do equal increased draw, generally in the form of resistance from corrosion somewhere in the circuit. The most obvious culprit is connectors.... trace the wiring through and you'll find a few. Pull them apart and give them a good spray of a marine based spray like inox. will reduce resistance and prevent it in future. Spray anywhere there's a moving part (insides of ignition switches are one) switches, buttons etc.
If you have a meter you can trace the circuit out either by looking for voltage drop or by checking resistance. Voltage drop is one of the easiest (though most often overlooked) ways of tracing circuit resistance. you don't need to take your machine apart to test this way, and its the way I most often check. On some 12V systems, by the time power is getting to coils you've gone from maybe 13.7V at the battery down to 11.3V. In the case of ignition coils it's often resistance in the positive lead going to the coil, not the earth which is switched. In the case of many other circuits its poor earthing. If you have one of those systems with about 20 wires all crimped on to one earthing point on top of each other bolted down then that's often it. That's a huge loss! Getting out the meter and getting your brain thinking will find the problem in the end, but spraying anything and everything is a good start.
Shaun
blown fuses do equal increased draw, generally in the form of resistance from corrosion somewhere in the circuit. The most obvious culprit is connectors.... trace the wiring through and you'll find a few. Pull them apart and give them a good spray of a marine based spray like inox. will reduce resistance and prevent it in future. Spray anywhere there's a moving part (insides of ignition switches are one) switches, buttons etc.
If you have a meter you can trace the circuit out either by looking for voltage drop or by checking resistance. Voltage drop is one of the easiest (though most often overlooked) ways of tracing circuit resistance. you don't need to take your machine apart to test this way, and its the way I most often check. On some 12V systems, by the time power is getting to coils you've gone from maybe 13.7V at the battery down to 11.3V. In the case of ignition coils it's often resistance in the positive lead going to the coil, not the earth which is switched. In the case of many other circuits its poor earthing. If you have one of those systems with about 20 wires all crimped on to one earthing point on top of each other bolted down then that's often it. That's a huge loss! Getting out the meter and getting your brain thinking will find the problem in the end, but spraying anything and everything is a good start.
Shaun
Figured it out
You know what it was guys? The solenoids for the auto-reverse were going bad, forward more than the reverse. I tested them with volt meter, and switched them around so I could get my forward to work better than the reverse. Ordered new ones, only place was straight from Morbark, put them on, no problems. The fuses from the solenoids were too big and not OEM size, so I put OEMs back in. That is why it was blowing the next smaller one to the tach. Thanks for all the info and help guys.
You know what it was guys? The solenoids for the auto-reverse were going bad, forward more than the reverse. I tested them with volt meter, and switched them around so I could get my forward to work better than the reverse. Ordered new ones, only place was straight from Morbark, put them on, no problems. The fuses from the solenoids were too big and not OEM size, so I put OEMs back in. That is why it was blowing the next smaller one to the tach. Thanks for all the info and help guys.
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