if you get to the haldex or Barnes catalog pages online they will be dimensional drawings. The basic outline is the same it just gets longer as they make the gear sets wider. So if you measure the appropriate length of the different sections and port locations on your pump you’ll probably be able to match it up with the appropriate haldex pump. then you will know the displacement of the small gear set an a large gear set, and be able to figure out how much more you could turn with that engine
Help! Huskee 35 Ton log splitter - need parts, manual or identification
- Thread starter Andy123
- Start date
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Not sure if these will help but pretty close.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/static/sites/TSC/downloads/ProdContentPDFs/1083954_Man1.pdf
https://www.foards.com/pages/speeco-35-ton-log-splitter-parts-diagram-597479
I am new here and have been doing a lot of reading just to verify what I believe to be the problem I am having. It's on a 35 ton Huskee log splitter. I believe the pump is crapping out but a couple things don't quite add up. At all points I have put my pressure guage I can only get a max pressure of 900 psi while trying to split wood. Ok, pump. No problem. Just cycling through to get air out of the lines I let the piston run all the way out to the end where the bottom of the wedge hits the weld on the base plate. Pressure guage shoots up to over (barely) 3000 psi. OK. Maybe not pump. This doesn't make any sense at all. If the pump is bad, it shouldn't ever make the 3000 psi, should it?
Does it split ok? What makes you think the pump is failing? 900psi on a 5” dia. piston is still a good amount of force.
It does not split ok. That's the issue. Nothing sounds out of normal, and no leaks anywhere. It used to just melt even the worst of logs like butter. Now even on a nice straight grain Ash it's having some trouble. But why would it only make 900 psi while trying to split wood but make 3000 psi towards the end of the stroke? The only two things I haven't done are re-pack the cylinder AGAIN. Or terminate the pressure gauge out of the pump to completely isolate absolutely everything else.
Could be piston seals passing fluid mid-stroke in a bad portion of the tube?
Honestly it's the only thing that makes any sense to me. But I'm far from any kind of hydraulic professional. Guess I will try and pack again and see what happens.
Look for bad chrome or a ballooned portion of the tube.
Will do. Ordering packings tomorrow. I will update when I'm done. Thanks y'all
To anyone that may be interested on what was actually wrong. Just like anything else, anything I have to fix isn't a normal fix.
The set screw that holds the piston cap to the head, had backed out enough that the cap was an approximate 1/2 inch gap between the two. Fortunately no bad seals, and no damage to the barrel or end cap. Tightened that back down and placed a new set screw and she's working like a champ.
Not sure your and my terminologies are the same ...was the piston loose on the rod ...or the end-cap loose on the tube?
Ether way it could have been bad if it came apart under pressure .
Sorry. The piston I have the "plunger" end is a two piece. So the head came loose from the rod. But just the outer section of the two pieces. Wish I had taken pictures to post of it. You could see on the back wall of the tube where the set screw had backed out and was making contact but no damage to the tube thank goodness.
Glad you found your problem. I had the same thing happen on a old bobcat that had one bucket tilt cylinder it would tilt the bucket until you had it full of dirt then it won't tilt. No leaks to the outside finally took the cylinder apart and found the two piece piston was coming apart like yours did. Put new seals in tight the screws back up and it was good to go.
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