Help me choose a saw..

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goncalo alves

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I am wanting to do some weekend CSM, and I am hoping for some suggestions on an entry saw? I have a stihl 28 that does well when converting trees to firewood, but what saw/chain combo would you suggest for someone wanting to get there feet wet?

I have a friend who said he could help me weld together a milling attachment similar to the Alaskan.

So, links, info, suggestions are all greatly appreciated.
 
I am wanting to do some weekend CSM, and I am hoping for some suggestions on an entry saw? I have a stihl 28 that does well when converting trees to firewood, but what saw/chain combo would you suggest for someone wanting to get there feet wet?

I have a friend who said he could help me weld together a milling attachment similar to the Alaskan.

So, links, info, suggestions are all greatly appreciated.

I have used a 038AV Magnum for small CSM work. And a jred 920, and now a stihl 088 Magnum.

You will be slow as can be with the 28, no matter how small of a cut. It is asking a lot of the saw.

You need a bigger saw to start with. A 44 is usually the bare minimum.
 
saw for csm

hey goncalo, i was in the same position you were a couple months back, and this is what i've experienced so far: the bigger saw you get, the better. even with my limited experience i already understand why alot of guys recommend a saw of at least 70cc, and that's probably pushin it. a smaller saw will work, it's just gonna be a pain in your butt. it'll be slow, and a struggle, and you'll probably push the saw too hard.
my recommendation is to look for a used saw on craigslist/ebay. there's a few sites where you can search all the craigslists at once, and then if you find something, just email the seller and ask if he/she would be willing to ship. but i would definitely go big for milling, as it takes ALOT of power.

good luck,
mb
 
Whatever the biggest size saw is that you can afford, get the next size bigger than that. lol
 
Milling is hard on a chainsaw, they run hotter, there is a greater load on the motor, clutch and chain because you are in the wood longer then any other job you would do with a chainsaw.
Whether you buy a used saw or a new one you will definantely want to buy a pro saw. The home owner models have alot more plastic parts which will more then likely melt down.
I use Stihl saws, so that is what I am familiar with. I wouldn't buy a saw smaller then an 440 pro magnum, 660 is the best all around choice.
I have a 650 pro magnum and it does a good job for me, and is all most $300. cheaper then the 660, that being said I wished that I would have spent the extra money and bought a 660.
Be for warned that if you think you will just give CS milling a try and if you like it you will get in to it deeper, if you enjoy working with wood at all and like being outside you will become addicted to milling. Buy a decent saw to begin with, you won't regret it. And if you find you really don't enjoy milling you can sell the saw. A pro saw will hold its value better then a home owner model.
Happy milling and don't forget to post pics
 
I am wanting to do some weekend CSM, and I am hoping for some suggestions on an entry saw? I have a stihl 28 that does well when converting trees to firewood, but what saw/chain combo would you suggest for someone wanting to get there feet wet?

It really comes down to the size of the logs you want to mill
Like everyone says the 28 will be slow even in small logs - what size bar do you have? If you decide you to try it make sure it is tuned a fraction on the rich side and keep the chain razor sharp or else you could end up destroying it.

For logs up to about 24" in diameter I'd start looking at 70 cc + saw with a 36" bar and 3/8 chain, and don't expect too much from any saw until you get into the 90+cc class.

Chain type is a personal thing, start with a regular chain - read this site from whoa to go and make changes to suit you.

I have a friend who said he could help me weld together a milling attachment similar to the Alaskan. So, links, info, suggestions are all greatly appreciated.

I suggest NOT welding the mill rails to the rest of the mill - either bolt the rails on or use Unistrut or Large T-Track for rails - then you can change bar length without having to break welds.
 
As everyone else has said, go big ! well at least bigger !!
On the welding front as Bob points out that can make things awkward and you could also find the frame twists a due to the heat of welding, have a look at Mr lynx's posts about his own made mill which he welded.
Which ever way you go have fun and when you start you won't stop.
 
thanks for the responses so far. If there any more links or threads on people who built their own chain saw milling attachments and guides, I would love to see them. ANy other suggestions on saws?

I am not opposed to research but often times specs don't tell the whole story, i like to hear the favorites of the board, that have been tested and come through with flying colors.
 
thanks for the responses so far. If there any more links or threads on people who built their own chain saw milling attachments and guides, I would love to see them. ANy other suggestions on saws?

I am not opposed to research but often times specs don't tell the whole story, i like to hear the favorites of the board, that have been tested and come through with flying colors.

Have you read the Milling 101 sticky?
 
My first milling was with a Husqvarna 272xp with 28" bar. It was OK, but underpowered compared to my current 066.

The Stihl 066/650/660s are good choices. My milling powerhead is a later 066 with a Bailey's big bore kit. The same kit will fit the 650 and 660 as a direct bolt-on and increases displacement from 92cc to 99cc. I've run my stock bore 660 after running the 066BB and BB has more grunt. The BB kits are inexpensive compare to the OEM parts, so make rebuilding a tired or seized used saw more attractive price wise.

I have a Husqvarna 3120 as well, and it has noticeably more grunt than the 066BB, BUT its considerably heavier. This isn't a concern if its just to be used as a milling saw. The same could be said of the Stihl 088/88, 084, etc.

Consider the Stihl 046/460 and Husqvarna 385xp/Jonsered 2186 as minimums if you're planning on making many 20"+ wide cuts in hardwood.
 

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