Help me Id my Husky

[e15757]

I have inherited this saw and am planning to use it to satisfy my woodworking obsession..Ie I am planning to use it for personal milling. My problem is that I don't know for sure what model it is and/or how to identify it. I was told that it is a 2100 but most of the limited pictures I've seen online for the 2100 seem to have an additional control under the on-off switch..I'm assuming this is a manual oiler. I think the other prob I have is that it appears the saw has seen some replacement parts over the years. What is the best way to ID this saw? Does it have markings anywhere on the cylinder? Anything specific about the muffler and exaust. It seems from pictures I've seen that this is likely either a 2100 or 288. I don't think it is a 2101 as the exhaust looked different in the picture I saw.
Thanks for the time...

hmmm.... I can't figure out how to attach images the button won't let me

 

[e15757]

got'um now......pic's attached

 

[e15757]

another pic

 

[stckciv]

Almost looks like a 77 but there is a few differences.

 

[Justsaws]

It looks similar to my 1100CD but has a different switch and muffler port. My guess is to look at the older CD models in the 70 to 100cc range. I have not had much luck finding Husky parts at a reasonable price for this series of saw. After market pistons are, $35.00=sh/h from Bailey's. Clutches(used)can be found for a similar price sometimes. The clutch drum on my 1100CD is the same a 2095 Jonsered($13.00=sh/h). The smaller cc ones take the same style but smaller diameter crankshaft. Carb kits can be had for $10.00 -$20.00. Good saws. They vibrate a lot. I use mine on my mill, works great.

 

[romeo]

480CD or a 380CD is my best guess. On the chassis underneith the head and above the chainguard there should be a riveted tag with the model# and serial #. Wash it and you'll see it.

 

[romeo]

Maybe a 180CD or 280CD/S but definatly a 77 cc model. The 285CD, 1100CD, 2100CD, and 2101XP had magnesium handles and the three 99cc models had manual and auto oilers.

 

[romeo]

Frankenstien CD

I keep looking at the pictures and can only come up with one answer. It is a genuine 100% pure bred CD bastard. Definatly a 2100 or 285 top cover. It looks like an 1100 muffler. But on the chassis the oil and gas caps dont line up like mine on my 2100's or my 285. If you cant find a tag all you could do is measure bore and stroke to be sure. Most parts from all the CD series will interchange and yours looks like its made out of all of them.

 

[Mange]

I am not sure....
Should I let you guess a bit more???

298xp!

 

[Mange]

The only saw with two piease top cover and aluminum tank with black plastic handle.

It is a bit special! I think you should send it to me so I can get a better look...
It is my birthday you know....blink.blink.blink

Edit. I think the engin is a 298

 

[e15757]

I don't think it is a 298XP

I was excited to hear that but I have since found a photo of a 298xp doesn't see as though that's what I have. I agree with the Frankenstien theory I can tell the covers have come from multiple different saws. I just finished tearing down the whole thing into and looked over ever inch to find a tag or engraving...no luck. I have ordered on of those multi-brand chainsaw service manuals..Hopefully it will have part explosions that I can use to match the part number on the chassis to something.

 

[Dan Forsh]

I have ordered on of those multi-brand chainsaw service manuals..Hopefully it will have part explosions that I can use to match the part number on the chassis to something.

Why? You can download pretty much every IPL for every saw yours either is, or is made up from for FREE from the Husqvarna websites.

If you want to trace the parts by their numbers you can try the parts look-up on here:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/

Go to the parts look up and enter the part number. This should tell you the different models it's used on.


Dan

 

[e15757]

conclusion:

I think Frankenstein started life as either a 185CD or a 1100CD. Both these saws had the plastic handle grips and the Tillotson HS 136B carb. Not sure how to differentiate further though. Does the 1100CD have a manual oiler?

 

[Justsaws]

I think Frankenstein started life as either a 185CD or a 1100CD. Both these saws had the plastic handle grips and the Tillotson HS 136B carb. Not sure how to differentiate further though. Does the 1100CD have a manual oiler?

Mine does not. It does have a bump switch for the ignition switch and a slightly different muffler port. It does have the aluminum tag on the crankcase. You could measure the clutch drum bearing way to eliminate the smaller saws. You could measure cylinder bore as that well tell you CCs for sure. I do not remember any cylinder markings but will try and pull a 1100CD cylinder out and take a look.

 

[Mange]

Why not check the bore and stroke???

I think the engin is a 298.

The tank can be changed.....

 

[e15757]

Thanks for the help

Thanks to everyone for the help so far...if you don't mind I'm going to keep on asking questions

So as I'm rather new to this in terms of actual tear down and maintenance of older equipment. I probably need some pointers. My experience to this point has been cutting firewood with a 50cc Echo saw that I've never had to disect.

So what is the best way to measure the bore and stroke, can it be done through the muffler port? I hate to remove the head for fear I won't be able to get the thing back together correctly or I may damage the rings or something?

"Justsaws" do you happen to know what the dimension of the clutch bearing is for the 1100? I can measure that easy enough.

Again, many thanks to you all on this. This is a really cool site!

 

[Justsaws]

e15757, this is what I found by looking at my saws and notes.

1100CD drum bearing crank dia.=9/16" 56mm bore x40mm stroke=99cc

380CD 52mm bore x36mm stroke=77cc

285CD drum bearing crank dia.=1/2" 52mm bore x40mm stroke=85cc

I measured the crankshaft where the bearing for the clutch drum would ride.

None of my saws have the two part top cover. None have chain breaks. My 1100CD has a large screw in muffler port. The 380CD has a smaller screw in muffler port. Nickel versus dime kind of comparison. I did pull a cylinder but forgot to write down what was on it. I will do that tomorrow.

Pull the top cover and take another photo, hopefully some of the Husky nuts will be able to tell you more. Good luck.

 

[Lust4saws]

That's easy. It's a 185, the 85cc forerunner to the 285. The only difference between the 185 and the 285 is the tank...the 285 had the one piece metal tank (no plastic rear handle). Neither had a manuel oiler (like the 1100, 2100). Also, the 298 didn't have the manuel oiler...but it was 100cc.
Hope this helps.
Dave

 

[e15757]

update...

ok, so I measured the drive shaft and it is 9/16" and the bore is 56mm so the engine definately appears to be a 99cc. I've attached some additional photos of disassembled Frankinstein...I hope I can get him put back together

General question: is it considered a sin to sandblast and repaint a saw like this? I just figured while I have him torn apart.....

another question: looking into the cylinder from the exhaust port everything that I could see looked good. The only exception is that on the piston adjacent to the exhaust port there appears to be some marring. It doesn't seem to have any depth to it, looks more like rubbing over the years. Is this a sign of near term failure on the way or is it typical for this type of saw? Is it best to replace the piston or let it ride?

Thanks again guys for the help. as I said I'm a newbie to this and you've been tons of help. Kevin

 

[Justsaws]

e15757, it would seem as though you have a 99cc saw. I cannot help you narrow it down further as I am not familiar with all the versions. The CD1100 cylinder I looked at today had these numbers on it, 833/1B with the Husky Sweden symbol in front of them. I do not know what those numbers mean.

As to painting, I would not expose an assembled crankcase to sand or any other media no matter how well it was masked off. Might post a question and see what people who do paint saws think. I do not paint them.

The piston looks as though it needs attention. Try and post a close up of the piston through the exhaust port that shows the rings. Usually marring is a sign of carbon build up, over revving, being to lean, and or over heating. It can also just be worn out and need to be replaced. Replacing the piston is not to bad. If the marring is not deep that is a good sign and should be able to be fixed. It is important to catch the problem if there is one before it gets bad and causes much more expensive damage. To soon to tell. Good luck.