Help on auto oiler Mac 610

[TonyM]

I just put together a Mac 610 from a couple of parts saws I had. Everything seems to work fine, it runs strong with good compression, but the auto oiler doesn't oil. The manual oiler works just fine, and the oil pump will pump if I dissasemble it and move the piston by hand. The diaphragm looks fine, and I took the oiler off another working saw, and it doesn't oil either. I checked the oiling by removing the bar and chain, cleaning all the oil off the saw, and starting it and letting it idle and reving it a few times at partial throttle (since there is no load). I also know the port is open to the crankcase from when I cleaned the components. I also have the adjustment screw all the way open, so that the piston can travel the full distance. I'm wondering if these oilers are just pathetic, or am I missing something.

 

[Andyshine77]

Yes the oilers are pathetic, I gave up trying to fix mine, I just use the manual pump.

 

[Bills Oak]

610/Mac Oiler

Tony, The Mac oilers are all iffy at best. On mine I always take off the "spring" or "filter" in the oil tank. Also, try using just a cheap grade of 30W, or 40W Engine Oil oil for the chain oiler. If you use a thicker brand like Husquvarna/ "SEMI STP" the pumps are not strong enough to draw the oil out of the tank. It does not seem to make a huge difference on chain wear if you use engine oil & usually takes care of the problem, Bill

 

[Butch(OH)]

I ran a 610 for several years and like Bill said mine wouldn't pump enough heavy "bar oil" with the automatic oiler, however it would pump lots of 30wt and the bar never seemed to know the differance. My 610 met an untimely death through some stupidity on my part and I too am looking for a nice one to come my way or some parts saws. I have whats left of mine in a box.

 

[Bills Oak]

Mac 610's

Butch, I have 5 or 6 complete 610's that are in decent shape--I can part them out if need be--let me know what parts you need or Email me at my home at [email protected] & we can work something out, Bill Irvine

 

[mbopp]

I resurrected a Monkey Wards 610 clone to go with my 655. I did get some parts from here including an oiler:

http://www.dreamscape.com/fayequip/

 

[Butch(OH)]

Thanks Bill, best way for you to know what I need is a picture. I get one tonight. The saw was in a trailer that came unhooked at 55MPH. Motor still runs great most everything around it knocked off. I probably need a complete saw with bad motor less the bar.

 

[Lakeside53]

I fixed mine after years of frustration... and buying three pumps.... There is a feed hole in the casing on the oil tank that is OFTEN partially blocked with the silicone gasket goo they used (my local saw shop confimed they used to see this all the time). I tore the entire saw down (it's a lot of work to pull the oil tank off the front of a 605/610) and found a blob of silicone that was acting as a "valve" - the wrong way. Scraped all the silicone off, used permatex gasket, and it worked so well I almost reconsided selling it.

 

[TonyM]

Well, I'm using motor oil, and I know nothing is plugged, as I had the saw entirely dissasembled for cleaning. I will take a look at the filter/screen in the oil tank again, but, I don't think it's plugged since the manual oiler works fine. I really built the saw for resale, so I thought it would be important for everything to work, but maybe the oiler is a lost cause.

 

[Lakeside53]

You may have a vacuum leak at the bottom of the pump. Either vacuum and pressure test the entire crank case, or, just try putting something like Permatex HPF (Hyplar?) on both sides so the pump gasket. It's non-hardening, so won't hurt your ability to get it on and off in the future.

 

[TonyM]

Tried it already. Although I did not pressure check the crankcase, it shows no sign of air leaks based on the way it runs, although I'm sure it's possible. Seems it would take a fairly significant leak to prevent the pump from working. I'll take it to the woods and run a tank of gas thru it and see how it acts.