Help pulling the muffler...

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Woodie

"Cap'n Bullcrap'n"
Joined
Aug 12, 2006
Messages
4,677
Reaction score
929
Location
SE Michigan
Okay...first off...NO LAUGHING AT THIS QUESTION!!! :)

Now that we've got that out of the way, here goes...

I've got the four bolts on the front of my 2171 muffler out, but the muffler doesn't seem to want to budge.

I've tried putting a little "lever pressure" on it using a screwdriver against the jug fins, but I don't want to overdo that, obviously. Is there another attachment point I'm missing? I looked at the IPL but couldn't see anything.

You 2171/372 owners out there...help out a rook please!!
 
I don't know exactly the arrangement on jreds, but on my 066 once you take the front four bolts out, you then pulloff the front of the muffler (or cover), at that point the two studs that hold the main body of the muffler to the jug will be exposed. Your saw may not be a similar set up but its worth checking.
 
Urbicide said:
Did you remove the two 5mm allen heads located down inside the tubes in the front of the muffler? :popcorn:

Insert sheepish grin here...

Thanks Urbicide...muffler in hand now.

BTW, one of those felt like it was JBWelded in...is there a reason why I had to take a pair of pliers and a hammer to said 5mm allen bolt?
 
I can only think alloy jug, steel bolt add heat and wella welded!

Buggers, I thought the same when I was doing the 44's, thought I was gonna strip the head or thread but all went OK and that was after bit of an Inox squirt.
 
Thanks everybody

This place is an addiction.

I had no reason to pull my muffler tonight...it's a brand-new saw, afterall.

But I wanted to take a look inside. I wanted to see the piston. No real reason to look at the piston, other than I wanted to see it.

And now I have.

So for now, it's just pulling a muffler to look inside a jug. Next thing you know...black-tar heroin...
 
Ekka said:
I can only think alloy jug, steel bolt add heat and wella welded!

Buggers, I thought the same when I was doing the 44's, thought I was gonna strip the head or thread but all went OK and that was after bit of an Inox squirt.
I was thinking about the removal problem and I believe a good anti-seize lubricant might be of some use. We use Loctite C5-A at work. It is a copper-based anti-seize designed to prevent corrosion and seizure and is rated for up to 1800 degrees F (980 degrees C). It would not take much but you would have to make sure the bolts were tightened properly so that they would not vibrate loose.:givebeer:
 
Urbicide said:
I was thinking about the removal problem and I believe a good anti-seize lubricant might be of some use. We use Loctite C5-A at work. It is a copper-based anti-seize designed to prevent corrosion and seizure and is rated for up to 1800 degrees F (980 degrees C). It would not take much but you would have to make sure the bolts were tightened properly so that they would not vibrate loose.:givebeer:

I think it's better to use alu-based anti-seize pasta, cos the jug is aluminum, and copper and aluminum are not going well together.
attachment.php
 
MAG58 said:
I think it's better to use alu-based anti-seize pasta, cos the jug is aluminum, and copper and aluminum are not going well together.
attachment.php
Hi MAG. The C5-A (copper-based) anti-seize is rated for aluminum, cast iron, steel, stainless steel, nickel, copper, brass, bronze, titanium, and monel. I was wondering what the temperature rating of your AL anti-seize was. Loctite has a nickel-based anti-seize that is temperature rated for 2400 degrees F (1315 degrees C). They also have a metal-free anti-seize (Heavy Duty Anti-seize) that is rated for the same temperature range as the nickel-based.
:popcorn:

Here is a link to Loctite's US web site. Do a search for anti-seize.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3

What would the temperature rating need to be for anti-seize used on the saw muffler screws anyway? How about a cat muffler?:confused:
 
Urbicide said:
Hi MAG. The C5-A (copper-based) anti-seize is rated for aluminum, cast iron, steel, stainless steel, nickel, copper, brass, bronze, titanium, and monel. I was wondering what the temperature rating of your AL anti-seize was. Loctite has a nickel-based anti-seize that is temperature rated for 2400 degrees F (1315 degrees C). They also have a metal-free anti-seize (Heavy Duty Anti-seize) that is rated for the same temperature range as the nickel-based.
:popcorn:

Here is a link to Loctite's US web site. Do a search for anti-seize.

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3

What would the temperature rating need to be for anti-seize used on the saw muffler screws anyway? How about a cat muffler?:confused:

Hi Urbicide.This type Alu or Copper anti-seize is rated for 1100 degrees C, but we can get the Loctite type here to. I like to use Alu anti-seize on aluminum, cos i have seen what can happen with alu an copper together, so i take no chances :cry:
 
Agree!!!!

Ekka said:
I can only think alloy jug, steel bolt add heat and wella welded!

Buggers, I thought the same when I was doing the 44's, thought I was gonna strip the head or thread but all went OK and that was after bit of an Inox squirt.

Yeah I have found that a little high temp anti-sieze goes along way when you reassemble the muffler specially if youve modded and will be pulling to see how she is doing for preventative maint. purposes,,,, :cheers:
 
Heck, I have to put light threadlocker on mine to keep the bolts going into the head from backing out after just a few hours.
 
tek9tim said:
Heck, I have to put light threadlocker on mine to keep the bolts going into the head from backing out after just a few hours.

Hi tek9tim, I use high temp anti-sieze on all the muffler bolts on chainsaw, cleaning saw, and grass trimmers. Evan on my new Jonsered I have taken off the mufflers and put on anti-sieze on the bolts.
:cheers:
 
Back
Top