One word of caution..check the tapered hub bushing for setscrews in the flange that lock the keyway and the hub to the shaft.. loosen those before you try to get the hub off of the shaft. There are usually 2 around the perimeter of the hub....
I've never found a way to get the bearing off of the drive side without cutting it off...I take a BFH ,cover the bearing houshing with an old towel, and wail away til the housing cracks..its cast iron and splits fairly easily...then ,I cut the the roller bearing outer race with a zizz wheel WEAR SAFETY GLASSES !!!!...then ,either zizz the inner race ( which is usually rusted to the shaft ) or CAREFULLY cut it off with an O/A torch....
The bearing on the other side usually comes off easily..
After replacing the second cutter shaft because the pillowblock setscrews galled the shaft , I came up with a different approach. Because the bearing collars are a slip- fit on the shaft and the setscrews cock the collar slightly ,they tend to dig into the shaft and over time work around the shaft...and the shaft wears ,which worsens the condition if you use it again....usually I could only get 2 bearing replacements before the shaft was junk...
I hard-faced welded up the surface where the bearing goes and had it ground to a precision fit for the new bearing..just a slight press fit is all you need..a good machinist will know how to do it...I also had flats machined in the shaft for set screws to tighten against
I've been using the same shaft for 2 yrs now and its gone thru 3 bearing sets ,still looks good with very little wear..I recently had another welded/ground to be used if I ever need it...
I also use Vermeer's bearings.. I know there are cheaper brgs ,but these are a good quality bearing and seem to last longer than the cheapos I have tried..
Good luck ,
Stan