hey guys, wondering about reasonable turnaround time

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timberturner

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since you guys have been real helpful, ( and since it's costing me money), i was wondering if you could offer some insight

i'm the guy that blew up his 066, twice, with exhaust side piston scoring (lean seizure i think it's called)

i checked it back into the shop ( like you guys recommended), and i told them i rely on that saw for some revenue

i called them approx. 32 hours later and they (whoever was in the parts dept), had a hard time even finding my ticket....

i'm a novice chainsaw operator, but an expert kayaker/outdoorsman, and in the kayaking industry, that would give me cause for concern

some of you studs hinted that if i didn't receive super prompt service, i should let it be known, so i was just keeping this forum up to speed on my unfortunate plight....

any thoughts are appreciated , even if i'm being unreasonable,,,

better to be unreasonable on this forum , than to go in screamin mad at the shop

thanks a mill

tom
 
Replaceing a cylinder/piston assy takes a hour tops. Parts should not take more than a few days. Given the trouble you have had with a new saw I would be highly irritated with the crappy service you have got. New saws do not seize for no reason. Yours has done it twice because your dealer is a jagoff and did not fix the problem right the first time. If I where you I would demand a refund and take your business elsewhere.
 
You stated that they had a hard time finding your ticket. Does that mean that they have not yet started working on your saw? Perhaps it was that mechanic's day off, or perhaps he already had other jobs promised ahead of yours.

I'd ask about what time frame they are looking at on your saw, and if it is too long (or they don't deliver on their word) I'd ask about a loaner saw of comperable performance to use until yours is done.
 
066

a brief history on this saw,


i bought it used, milled with it for less than an hour

seized it up, brought it in to the dealership ( not where i bought it_

got it repaired

worked with it again ( seized it up , same thing) within 25 minutes or so

i want to reemphasize, this was not a new saw, but a stihl 066 redeye( with the rev limiter light on the right side by the carb screws) which means i don't know what year those were made

but the point was made by this forum that a stihl dealership is responsible, not only for fixing the problem, but also , fixing what caused the problem !!

btw, what years were the redeye made ???????????
 
I thought it was anew saw. My bad. The fact remains though that your dealer should have known that seizure dont just happen for no reason. Exhaust side seizures are usually caused by lean conditions. Things to look at are crank seals, carb settings, intake manifold, base gasket, center crank gasket, and mismatched filter seal.
 
066

Ask him if he air and vacuum tested it after the repair. This is a must when repairing any lean mix problem. If he is a Stihl dealer, he is required to have the equipment to do this.
 
Stihltech, can you explain how to perform an air
and vacuum test?

Does anyone perform these tests regularly , before
a lean seize occurs? It's an expensive way to find out there's a problem with your saw.

thanks
Kam
 
The crank seals on a 2-cycle engine are more likely to leak vaccuum than pressure. I doubt too many people will do the tests as maintenance, a savvy tech will suspect an air leak when the saws idle becomes erratic (stalls).
 
tests

I perform them on a pro cutter's saw whenever he brings it in for any erratic running. True, any experienced tech will know which seal to check when he starts.
The exhaust and inlet are blocked off, the pressure, or vacuum, is added thru a nipple on the intake block. Both must show no leakage.
On an 066, crank seal under flywheel is most suspect, with pulse hose and intake boot or cyl. gasket close behind. I always use pressure and vacuum, but a lot of seals will show up on vacuum only.
 
My guess is , the first time you had it rebuilt the mechanic did not do the proper test required to diagnos the problem. And just put a new top end on your saw. I think your looking at a liability issue this time around, the dealer should be responsible for the cost of parts and labor this time around. If this mechanic that rebuilt the saw the first time has any experience at all he would have found the cause of the problem, and not just slapped a new top end in your saw.
 
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