Hi

[NSMaple1]

I don't think you mentioned how much wood/year you'd be looking to process?

Given the things you did mention, I would consider:

-Electric wood splitter
-Electric chain saw
-Small-ish (40cc?) gas chain saw

The electrics I mentioned as you mentioned noise with the neighbours might be an issue - and they can be used indoors. You can get some quite capable ones. An electric splitter can be quieter than splitting by hand if wedges are involved. Worse comes to worse they can be used in the woods too with a generator if you've already got a generator. The gas saw can be used away from home at your scrounging area for extra capabilities & more power.

You should be able to find all those used, and for decent prices, on Craigslist, with some patience. As far as hauling, a small used trailer?

 

[james huffaker]

Old saws and heat treat, That's a tough one to answer, kinda 2 part. First part is steel becomes brittle with age ( don't we all?) Second is sawing creates heat that after many years imparts a hardened edge to the tooth. The combination makes for file destroying hard spots, kinda get a shrieking sound and it doesn't feel right like it's slipping which it is and the file teeth are being rolled over- dulled. In addition if the brittleness is not removed, when you try to impart a set the the teeth they will snap off, sometimes happens just trying to sharpen with a file. Heating the teeth to a dull almost imperceptible red and letting air cool can relieve the above problems. Kinda an art in itself as you do not want to heat the body which will cause them to warp. Years ago it was popular to take the common carpenter size saws and put them in the oven at about 250 degrees or so for a couple hours ( heating the whole thing resolves warp issue). Can' really do that with a 3ft tuttle so it's on to the propane torch approach and the art of just kissing the teeth with out allowing the heat to penetrate too far back into the body ( just enough to allow for filing and setting) Very hard to describe adequately.

Sir,

Thanks very much, I learned a new trick.

Not talking about old saws though, but my new saw. Someone above posted that most new saws, to paraphrase, have junk steel and need sharpening and tuning. My question was how do I tell if the saw I have is even worth pursuing a skilled sawyer? You can sharpen and tune a saw, but its tough to fix bad metallurgy. I'm not real interested in pouring good money after bad, and the saw weren't cheap. I need to hog out the handle too, can only get 3 fingers with gloves on in the hand hole.

Regards, Jim

 

[james huffaker]

Don't send your dues to Uncle. He'll just use it to feed his dozen or more kids. He's got so many that he's even lost count. Takes him a day or two to figure out one's missing.

If he has that many kids, he needs all the funds he can get. I have 2 in college, and they are making me poor:msp_rolleyes:.

 

[AT sawyer]

Even a poorly made modern saw (Curtis Fastcutter, etc.) can be MADE to cut. I just filed up a Curtis 5' two man tuttle and it pulls decent noodles. But the blade is flat ground and easily kinks. The spring steel of old Disstons, Simonds, Atkins saws was much better quality. And you can find those used for less than a new Curtis. Search You Tube for the Warren Miller videos on how to file a crosscut saw. Well worth the time spent watching.

 

[AT sawyer]

Oh, and get your filing tools-- jointers, raker gauges, etc. from Ebay. The "modern" crosscut saw tools purchased retail these days are worse than useless.

 

[CTYank]

CTYank;

I live in a once upon a time small town in Westchester county. Not far enough away from the city not to feel it's effects, but at least far enough away that a small minority still feels that though they may set tone and policy by their votes/associations, they in no way represent us .

My maul and smaller axes are Gransfors Bruks as is one of my wedges (only maul and wedge I know of that comes with a protective sheath as they a sharp enough to cut you). Between the saw, axes and maul/sledge and wedges, and the hauling and lifting who needs a gym?

Stoves, yeah I know, much more efficient, and I'm working on it, but she's a city girl married to a country boy. Her version of camping is the Waldorf, and a wood burner don't fit her decorum. I'm working on it.

Saws, I'm thinking firstly I need to find a good shop (maintenance/ repair/ tweaking), then the saw. I've been perusing the chainsaw sub forum,still looking.

Regards, Jim

Jim,

You don't fool around with splitting tools, do you? Only one of the very best. Just got a Mueller myself last year, a huge improvement over nonameos. Roger that, about the gym.

Re stoves vs fireplaces, in winter fireplaces can have zero efficiency or less. Modern stoves with their large quartz windows are like closed fireplaces. Fireplaces are immensely more efficient at generating pollutants.

If you do find a good chainsaw shop around these parts, please do tell. All those I've found want you to swallow BS and flow cash. Some online resellers of factory refurbs can save you big-time. DIY servicing isn't rocket-surgery; after a dealer severely messed up some carbs, I do them myself.

What is most important re chainsaws is using PPE, and learning safe operation. It really helps (sure did for me way back when) to watch a pro in action. You really want to get straight on filing and inspection/daily maintenance up front. And felling wedges- a necessity for bucking too.

Come time, I'd be happy to help "prune your search tree" about what might work for you. Been known to help a few toward happy cutting experiences, sans ER trips. You might even want to join some of us in clearing blowdowns in some Westchester parks. A PM would get that started.

John

 

[james huffaker]

Sir,

Re: GB I look for heirloom quality stuff in general, and tools specifically. Not the modern definition of heirloom, exclusivity, bling, flash, but the original, a reasonable expectation that said object will serve me for my days, and be around for my grand or great grand kids, should they ever need a good.... Getting harder and harder to find in our disposable society. I search and inquire before I buy. I "ask" the old ones through their writings, what worked for them? Did they ever arrive at a consensus as to the best, under the theory, if I'm doing the same things they did with the same tool, and they used it a whole lot more then I ever will, and they staked their lives on their skill and their chosen tool, I probably ought listen. GB at least in their smaller axes, is the best I could find, and mine are as "sharp as a good knife", and across the board, I'm happy with them. I've yet to try their American felling axe, I've read mixed reviews, and they ain't cheap. Having good success getting old axe heads off e-bay and craigs list and rehalfting, for full sized axes. Love their(GB) maul, and wedge, just that their wedge is too expensive to get multiples. I split with the maul, but drive wedges with a 8Lb. sledge.

Re: stove, Yeah I know, working on the wife.

Re: saw shop, Thinking I need to head north. Will advise if I find any worth wile.

PPE: Spent some time in EMS/Fire, ER, have seen what a saw, axe, machete,etc, can do.
Loggers helmet/ear pro/mesh face shield, safety glasses, yup
Labonville full wrap chaps, next month
Boots soon
Knowledge/skill the best safety mechanism ever invented. Humility, knowing and being able to admit your limits, fail safes.

Blowout kit (augmented) on my person, always.

PM inbound.

Thanks

Regards, Jim

 

[unclemoustache]

Don't send your dues to Uncle. He'll just use it to feed his dozen or more kids. He's got so many that he's even lost count. Takes him a day or two to figure out one's missing.

If he has that many kids, he needs all the funds he can get. I have 2 in college, and they are making me poor:msp_rolleyes:.

Not me. I use all that money to buy tools. Kids fend for themselves by breaking things at nearby houses and then suggest they hire "Uncle Moustache Home Improvements" to fix them. It's a great little racket.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/XeW-9kUSfjc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[james huffaker]

Hehe

 

[zogger]

Sir,

Re: GB I look for heirloom quality stuff in general, and tools specifically. Not the modern definition of heirloom, exclusivity, bling, flash, but the original, a reasonable expectation that said object will serve me for my days, and be around for my grand or great grand kids, should they ever need a good.... Getting harder and harder to find in our disposable society. I search and inquire before I buy. I "ask" the old ones through their writings, what worked for them? Did they ever arrive at a consensus as to the best, under the theory, if I'm doing the same things they did with the same tool, and they used it a whole lot more then I ever will, and they staked their lives on their skill and their chosen tool, I probably ought listen. GB at least in their smaller axes, is the best I could find, and mine are as "sharp as a good knife", and across the board, I'm happy with them. I've yet to try their American felling axe, I've read mixed reviews, and they ain't cheap. Having good success getting old axe heads off e-bay and craigs list and rehalfting, for full sized axes. Love their(GB) maul, and wedge, just that their wedge is too expensive to get multiples. I split with the maul, but drive wedges with a 8Lb. sledge.

Re: stove, Yeah I know, working on the wife.

Re: saw shop, Thinking I need to head north. Will advise if I find any worth wile.

PPE: Spent some time in EMS/Fire, ER, have seen what a saw, axe, machete,etc, can do.
Loggers helmet/ear pro/mesh face shield, safety glasses, yup
Labonville full wrap chaps, next month
Boots soon
Knowledge/skill the best safety mechanism ever invented. Humility, knowing and being able to admit your limits, fail safes.

Blowout kit (augmented) on my person, always.

PM inbound.

Thanks

Regards, Jim

Heirloom quality, older, metal cased USA made top notch gear

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw-stickies/98495.htm

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Welcome to the madness!

:newbie:

 

[james huffaker]

Thanks for the welcome.

Zogger, Thanks for that. Where would one acquire said saw? I take it they are no longer made?

Regards, Jim

 

[zogger]

Thanks for the welcome.

Zogger, Thanks for that. Where would one acquire said saw? I take it they are no longer made?

Regards, Jim

Mag case poulans? Plenty of them out there, they made zillions. In other words, used. there's a mambo deluxe powerful dandy one in the auctions/trading post now, 655BP. Monster saw...I don't have the loot for it.....that's one of the holy grail models.....

but, just look around, s25da or cva for a small saw, 3400-8500 for larger saws, some others. Approximately what CC size would you be looking for? 3400s are very easy to find, cheap, and easy peasey to work on, 56cc. Cut just great!

 

[james huffaker]

Sir; Thanks for getting back to me.

I don't own a saw yet. Not sure what size to start with. I figure a mid size saw that's big enough to handle most of what I'd be cutting, perhaps with an option for a longer bar, or "tweaking" down the road?

Regards, Jim

 

[zogger]

Sir; Thanks for getting back to me.

I don't own a saw yet. Not sure what size to start with. I figure a mid size saw that's big enough to handle most of what I'd be cutting, perhaps with an option for a longer bar, or "tweaking" down the road?

Regards, Jim

hmmmmm recommendatuions so far are spot on, a refurb model cheap online, then learn to tune. Brand new poulan 5020av is under 200 most places that sell them. 50CCs, seem to have a good reputation although I don't have one yet.

Used old merikun made, that 3400 poulan I mentioned would quality as mid sized and would handle most firewood chores, and run a 16 to 20 inch bar. Older style, only the canuckistanian models had chainbrakes. None of mine do. That might be a consideration for you.

You mentioned a local small engine shop, I would recommend see what he has running or something worth rebuilding. If he has a selection, just post the list here and his asking prices.

How much in the budget for a chainsaw? That will help narrow it down considerably.

Most people recommend two saws, called a two saw plan (although a lot of us have dozens...). Typically it will be like a 40-60 cc spread, or 50-70 cc. 20cc jumps. I cut a LOT with two older poulans, 38cc s25cva and 56cc model 3400. What was nice is the price, 10 and 40 bucks used, some new fuel lines and filters and cleaning the carb, etc, then good to go.

The modern plastic cased poulans aren't that bad either, typically quite cheap used, but a good realistic tune, open the muffler a little, good to go.

There are MANY other makes/models/sizes, just mentioning good enough budget saw, entry level, but still good enough to get it done.

Start smaller, get some trigger time and experience, then bump up a size. Eventually one more size, and that should be it, you get up to 70 cc or larger you will be able to handle just about anything in your area.

 

[james huffaker]

Thanks very much for getting back to me, and I apologies for the delay in responding.

Budget, 2 kids in college = little substantial disposable income. That said, to start with I'd rather buy one saw that is an investment in the future (see heirloom above), that could function on it's own until it gets stable mates. Thinking mid sized/bigger to start? I like old stuff, usually made to last, but old spare parts sometimes get hard to find (spare spare saw cannibalizing?).ut as always, buy once, cry once. Steel better then plastic. Thanks again.

Regards, Jim

 

[zogger]

Thanks very much for getting back to me, and I apologies for the delay in responding.

Budget, 2 kids in college = little substantial disposable income. That said, to start with I'd rather buy one saw that is an investment in the future (see heirloom above), that could function on it's own until it gets stable mates. Thinking mid sized/bigger to start? I like old stuff, usually made to last, but old spare parts sometimes get hard to find (spare spare saw cannibalizing?).ut as always, buy once, cry once. Steel better then plastic. Thanks again.

Regards, Jim

What you said is correct, older saws a lot of parts are no longer made or available except hit or miss luckouts or used.

There are newer model pro saws that are quite good, affordable enough used, and both OEM and aftermarket parts available now and into the future. Any saw can be an heirloom saw if it is well taken care of. Whole lotta guys here have saws that are decades old, were sold as "homeowner" class saws back in the day, and still work good, as they did for their dads/grandpas, etc.

Really, just to get started cutting and learning, check your local CL or the small engine shop for most anything that works. Learn to do simple maintenance, changing fuel lines and filters and air filters, etc, and chain filing. You should be able to find something for around 50 bucks or so to start out with.

Anotyher thing you can do is attend a nearby get together or GTG, they are always running here or there and are listed on the chainsaw page or in the stickies there. You'll get to see and handle a ton of different saws, mild to wild.

 

[james huffaker]

Thanks. I think I have such an opportunity already available

Regards, Jim

 

[zogger]

Just wondering if you found a suitable saw yet?

 

[james huffaker]

Married a city girl, 2 kids in college... probably will check out the local lawn mower shop, and the "box" store, as recommended above, and see what can be had used, and cheap. I figure if I can get something that runs, even a POS, it will get me started, and will gain experience fixing I mean maintaining it.

Regards, Jim