High Tech Boot Repair

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Well, since the logging/lumber picture is a bit depressing right now, I did write LEFT and an arrow on the back of the orange patch for a little humor. Things are slowing down here drastically so it might not be a good testing time.
 
back in the seventies little things like lettuce were flown in to the one store about once per month and cost several dollars a head. Ice cream was ten dollars a half gallon and a hamburger was five bucks..
Back in the '70s growing up in Valdez,AK,our news reels were flown in one week behind,Im talkin TV.course Barrow was probably lucky if at all to have reception.The big joke was,if the world ended,its would be a week before we found out.Veggies were pretty substandard then,now we have all the box stores,least in the bigger cities.
Slowp,its amazing how many people dont do the poly/fleece thing,I live in them for a good chunk of the year,todays temp range was 3 degs @0800 to 'teens by mid day,why would anybody want to suffer through cotton?

ak
 
Update

Today, I felt a bit of dampness on my heel. The purple boot has failed. The duck tape is shredded and the innertube is coming off. Next attempt will be using gorilla glue and maybe the gorilla tape that smells like sewage. Then it might be time to look for some of those orange boots.
 
Today, I felt a bit of dampness on my heel. The purple boot has failed. The duck tape is shredded and the innertube is coming off. Next attempt will be using gorilla glue and maybe the gorilla tape that smells like sewage. Then it might be time to look for some of those orange boots.
GAH! Gorilla glue is supposed to be awesome, haven't used it but know others that swear by it. My suggestion was going to be 'PL200', the stuff you use for glueing floors to joists, I still have a pair of pants with that goo on 'em, like 15 years later, my bud down the road rebuilt his fenders and stuck the rubber back on his truck with it, not moving anywhere, and, the best part, its cheap for the 8" tube (about 4$ up here), clean up the heel of your boot with some ISO and schmear that bear-poo on with a spatula or stick and let it sit for the weekend. Since its not on a part that needs to flex it should work fine...... Just a wee thought fer ya! (hey we all can relate to 'favorite comphy boots' I thinks) :)

:cheers:

Serge
 
I've had amazingly good luck with shoe goo. With or without patches. But it'll hold the soles on my Wescos for months at a time. Worth a try.
 
I've had amazingly good luck with shoe goo. With or without patches. But it'll hold the soles on my Wescos for months at a time. Worth a try.

I'm glad to hear that somebody had good luck with that damn stuff. Maybe the send a different formulation to your part of the country. Out here everybody has a partially used can of shoe-goo mouldering away on a back shelf in the shop.
 
Today, I felt a bit of dampness on my heel. The purple boot has failed. The duck tape is shredded and the innertube is coming off. Next attempt will be using gorilla glue and maybe the gorilla tape that smells like sewage. Then it might be time to look for some of those orange boots.

Anybody want to start a pool on when Slowp finally breaks down and buys a new pair of boots? The winner gets a framed copy of all of Slowp's posts on how to haywire the old boots together.
 
I have patched shoes with the pl adhesives but i used the premium [ not the 200] number whatever it is. It worked great and cheap.
 
GAH! Gorilla glue is supposed to be awesome, haven't used it but know others that swear by it.

Yup, use it sparingly 'cuz it foams-n-oozes in a bad way if you get too, um, liberal wit it.

I just salvaged two pairs of gloves with gorilla tape. I didn't know that they made a sewage scented variety.


.
 
I bough the tape at an "after the flood sale". It was $3.00 and works good, just smells bad. Gorrilla tape is also working well on my pants. I'll put some tape or something on the inside, in case it does ooze and, I learned this trick, you put a full water bottle inside the leg of the boot when you repair the back seam. It helps to keep the proper shape while the glue cures.
 
Before Gorilla Glue.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64627&stc=1&d=1202590972
attachment.php


After Gorilla Glue.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64628&stc=1&d=1202591410
attachment.php


Not too crazy about orange but now I have a matching ensemble.:)
 
Nice fix slowp! :p That 'shoe goo' is junk, esp. leather to rubber, (but in a closed garage makes an interesting drinking partner.... how do I know that ? ), use a good contact cement, smear it on both surfaces evenly and thoroughly without lumpin' it up, make sure everything is nice an' dry an' clean first, give it an hour or more to firm up and then press the surfaces together with vigor (like 50lbs+psi), a mallet works :D One of my first jobs was building shoes in Vancouver when I was 17, I do not tell my friends I did this btw, I tell 'em to go buy new shoes :jester: (man I hated that job!)

:popcorn:

Serge
Why do you let the contact cement dry so long? The instructions always say 5 or 10 minutes until it just drys to the touch.

And how about several coats of contact cement?
 
Why do you let the contact cement dry so long? The instructions always say 5 or 10 minutes until it just drys to the touch.

And how about several coats of contact cement?
Yea, dry to the touch, my times are out, just seemed longer I guess :D (esp. after breathing that :censored: in for hours, not good). It will bond for a fair while after applying, I've stuck together parts of my pants before (throwing them in a pile, DOH!)
As for multiple coats, hm, you want it to saturate the material and still have a coating on the surface, I do not think a thicker glue layer would be stronger and considering how rubbery that stuff is may even make a weaker bond, dunno, never experimented with it. Don't hesitate to roughen up the surfaces when you prep them too.

:cheers:

Serge
 
Thanks.
I do repairs on my diving stuff, it's always challenging.
I got my hands on some industrial contact cement that is 2 part, you add a hardener. That stuff is strong, but I am still getting mixed results.

I think on the porous material, you need multiple coats, on the nonporous stuff you need to aggressively rough it up.
Then it helps to put a glue on the edges after the two pieces are cemented together.
I know what you mean about the smell.:dizzy:
 

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