Hitch cord diameter and Climbers Weight...

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HusqyStihl

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I've read twice on these forums of 8mm hitch cord tightening down or locking up on heavier climbers and that 10mm would be more appropriate? Is this true? I weigh in at about 235-240 last time i checked, should i worry about my Beeline 8mm's that i've purchased hanging up on me? Or would it depend on the hitch and if i get hung up on one, just try another?

Thanks, Moose
 
In my opinion, its going to depend on a lot of things. The rope diameter vs hitch diameter for one. I'm a lighter climber, swinging in at 85-90lbs or so lighter than yourself, and depending on the hitch I'm using, I could get 8mm beeline to jam on a true ½".

Amount of braids or turns in your hitch will vary friction to the point of a jam as well.

Rope construction is another consideration. Ex: imori is a grippy rope as is.. So using a hitch made of material known for good grip.. Could end in a PITA type situation. Wet cordage will affect hitch performance, too.

You basically have to experiment a little.

A) 5 wrap schwabisch, 8mm beeline on ½" 16 strand: jam like a bastard.

B) 4/1 micho 10mm armorpruss on 11.5mm 24 strand: smooth as silk

I would stay away from English pruss style hitches (distel, micho, schwabisch, etc) w/ 8mm on ½" rope. Much rather stick to the french style pruss (vt, xt, super cooper) as they seem to have less turns, with longer braided legs.

Again, just my opinion. If you're currently climbing w/ 8mm on ½", then f*ck it, don't listen to an idiot like me and fix what ain't broke. Someone with more knowledge will chime in if I've lead you in the wrong direction.
Good luck bro, climb safe.
-j
 
Good info, currently running 1/2" 16-strand Yale Xtc Fire and got 24" 8mm Beeline along with it. Then got the HC Rapide. Guess its gonna take some playin around. I figured i'd get a couple more different 8mm's of different brands and now i'm thinkin to throw in a couple 10mm just in case i run into any problems hanging up. Lookin to get another shorter climb line and also make another 2in1 lanyard so i'm thinkin different eye2eye's would be good to have around for different applications.


Thanks man, all info greatly appreciated. Climb safe also!

~Moose
 
Tech cord by the foot is not expensive. Try a few different diameters. Accumulating a collection of hitch cord seems inevitable.
 
Anytime, bro. I LOVE a ten mil on ½". My favorites are armorpruss and ocean poly. The poly can get grippy once it's worn in. Also.. Try some HRC. That **** is where its at for bombing out of trees, or if you run your hitches hard. Spun nomex, I think. Same stuff they make firefighter jackets from. Unglazeable thus far, just chars a bit, can scrape it right off.

Edit: arbpro (could be wrong) and teufelberger both make a 9mm cord. They're a nice middle ground. The teufelberger epicord is badass stuff, man.
 
I plan DdRT and have been putting together my own kit. I havent chosen a cambium or friction saver yet and some other things including which saddle i'd like to get. Ive got alot of kit but gonna take a trip to my local Vermeer shop to see if i can try on any saddles there. Of course i'd like the latest and greatest but thinking maybe a Petzl Sequoia.

Maybe switch over to SRT after getting comfortable with DdRT first.

~Moose
 
Say i'm running a DdRT with split tail blakes and wanted to use a self tending micro pulley, would someone actually purchase or use an eye2eye to attach the pulley or (since its not a life supporting function) would something like a small length of parachord work for that application? Just something to prusik to the line to hold the micro pulley. Any suggestions or just use an eye2eye of small diameter? I'd rather it not consist of a bulkier biner so i purchased a variety of snap hooks to play with, just need to find a little bit of cord or something else that would fasten well to 1/2" XTC to raise and lower the micro system. Accessory cordage?

Thanks in advance!

~Moose
 
Imho if you are serious about climbing, buy the hitch climber kit, makes things easier to inspect while climbing, streamlined, and easier to use and tend slack. If you progress, the components can be used in other setups. What is it, I think $110 US?
 
Im just starting out but i went ahead and bought both systems, split tail DdRT and the Hitch Climber Rapide. Also picked up a CMI basic micro pulley. So i can play around with different setups and see what i like best. I usually buy through TreeStuff and only saw the HC Rapide (pulley only), didn't see the whole system somewhere else till after i bought the rapide
 
Husky, to simplify, what we're getting at is:
The friction from the bark as well as the wider bend radius of natural crotching essentially takes weight away from your hitch. Almost helping hold more of your weight.

Friction (to my understanding) doesn't disappear, so it has to be exerted somewhere else. And friction/pulley savers lessen that friction natural crotching provides.. And transfers it to your hitch. So its holding much more of your weight.. Which definitely contributes to lock up.
 
i hear what everyones sayin. i was thinkin about trying out a couple diff friction savers because i didnt think a 1/2" rope would have any chance of rotating DdRT in a natural crotch with my fat azz a danglin from it. And figured if it did, it would burn up my rope pretty quick..

I guess there's only one way to find out, using different trees and starting slow. I appreciate all the help guys!

~Moose
 
When you hip thrust, you're taking the weight off the line when you pull up, reducing the friction at the crotch.

You're big, but not that big. It's not going to burn up your rope.

If you go around a couple of branches, you will widen the turning radius on the rope, making it easier to pull.

Man, you're asking all these questions. Just go out and do some rec climbing, things will become a lot clearer.
 
Learn somethin new everyday, i would have thought more branches would equal more area on the rope for friction. Never really thought about it. Was gonna get one of those... uh forget the name right now but the "hose" type friction savers Dan House or somethin? Going over a couple branches i should probably get maybe the one of each of the longest lengths they have?
 

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