Homelite 1050, Super 1050, 1020 - Which one is it?

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blsnelling

blsnelling

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I've got an old Homelite here I'm getting ready to go through. I believe it to be a 1050, but would like to confirm so that I get the right parts. I'm also interested in interchangability of the parts I need, listed below. If you have any of the parts, please PM me. BTW, it has compression, but the piston is scuffed, so I'm hoping to only need a piston.

  1. Muffler Cover
  2. Muffler Guard
  3. Spike
  4. Piston/Rings
  5. Choke rod & knob
  6. Crank Seals


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Did the XP1000 and XP1000 use the same piston as the 1020/1050/1130G (or can they)?

My XP1020 piston looks like that through the port. Haven't pulled the jug to look further yet.
 
There's a subtle difference between earlier saws like the 1000/1020 and later ones like the Super 1050. Earlier con rods had fiber bushings on the crank end for "slop" control. Later saws like the Super 1050 used two metal bushings on the piston end of the con rod that sandwiched in between the con rod bearing and the piston boss for the wrist pin. Not sure when this change took place. Anyhoo, just be careful if the con rod setup is the later style so the piston has the proper side clearance control.

Dan
 
lesorubcheek said:
There's a subtle difference between earlier saws like the 1000/1020 and later ones like the Super 1050. Earlier con rods had fiber bushings on the crank end for "slop" control. Later saws like the Super 1050 used two metal bushings on the piston end of the con rod that sandwiched in between the con rod bearing and the piston boss for the wrist pin. Not sure when this change took place. Anyhoo, just be careful if the con rod setup is the later style so the piston has the proper side clearance control.

Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks for the important info Dan! So can we use that later Super 1050 piston on an earlier conrod? If so, what parts would we need? Would we possibly have to clearance the piston's pin bosses a bit? That wouldn't be too hard methinks...:cheers:
 
New piston on the old style conrod would work no problem. Think the part number is even superceded in the parts book... need to check for sure. Just leave out the bushings, which you wouldn't have anyway with that setup.

Dan
 
One more little thing that I mentioned awhile back. Be very careful if you're thinking about buying an aftermarket piston for the 1050. I got one a few years ago, not from the Greek guy, but its hard to believe there's that many aftermarket manufacturers for 1050 pistons. The one I bought did not have a properly machined boss to work with the later style con rod using the bushings. It'll work fine with the old style con rod, but not the later style. Maybe the ones he's selling are different than the one I picked up, but if you get one, and need the later style, it wouldn't hurt to check before just sticking it in.

Dan
 
lesorubcheek said:
New piston on the old style conrod would work no problem. Think the part number is even superceded in the parts book... need to check for sure. Just leave out the bushings, which you wouldn't have anyway with that setup.

Dan
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan. That's great news. The newer pistons are much more common, as the 1050 was built up into the '80s. There were a bunch of NOS pistons and cylinders on ebay a number of months ago, but they've all mysteriously vanished (even the Greek 'cheapee' pistons) now that I actualy have a saw of this series. I should have bought a jug and piston and put them on the shelf 'just in case' like the little CAD voice in my head suggested...:censored:

lesorubcheek said:
One more little thing that I mentioned awhile back. Be very careful if you're thinking about buying an aftermarket piston for the 1050. I got one a few years ago, not from the Greek guy, but its hard to believe there's that many aftermarket manufacturers for 1050 pistons. The one I bought did not have a properly machined boss to work with the later style con rod using the bushings. It'll work fine with the old style con rod, but not the later style. Maybe the ones he's selling are different than the one I picked up, but if you get one, and need the later style, it wouldn't hurt to check before just sticking it in.

Dan
Click to expand...

Interesting. I do remember you talking about your experience with that piston in one of the 'aftermarket piston' threads. Did you ever end up using it.............and if not, would you consider parting with it?:givebeer:
 
Last edited:
Looks like the carb box has the grommets for the Tillotson HL needles. If it had the SDC it'd have the metal plugs in those holes instead of grommets. Also looks to have the third idle screw and grommet at the front of the carb box. I don't think the SDC equipped 1050's had that adjustment on the intake manifold. Only seen one SDC equipped XP-Series saw in person however. Many HL's though...
 
Yea, the SDC setup was sold as a kit to fit on any of the Tillotson equipped saws. You can mix and match tons of parts on these saws. Still have the aftermarket piston, but kinda want to hold onto it just in case. Sure the Greek guy or someone else will have 'em up soon enough.

Dan
 
Took a look in the IPLs and there is a 1050, not a Super, that shows it uses this setup without the piston end bushings.

It may very well be that the different con rod and bushing setup was the key difference between the plain 1050 and the Super......

Early Supers look like they could have came with the HLs or the SDCs. No evidence as of yet the cylinders had different port timing. Some Supers had the larger 3/4" clutch, but not all. Please excuse the rambling, but always been curious what made a Super 1050 "super", and this is about the only difference that seems to be constant across the board.

Dan
 
blsnelling said:
I don't have a regular 1050 IPL, only a 1050 Super. I can't read most of the PN on the one I have anyway.

I need PNs for the following parts.

1. Piston
2. Choke Rod
3. Muffler Stud
4. Muffler Cover Screws
Click to expand...

Piston is A-63071-D, but its superseded to A69189-A, so you can use either one.
Choke rod is A-58354 for the Tillotson carb. The button is separate and is 57289-1.
Muffler studs are 59982-A.
Muffler cover screws are 80837. They're 12-24 x 3/8.

Dan
 

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