It has a brand new piston, and this was the first time it had been in wood.
Homelite 1050, Super 1050, 1020 - Which one is it?
- Thread starter blsnelling
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It has a brand new piston, and this was the first time it had been in wood.
I figured as much. Can't wait to see the vid. with those .404 chips piling up around your knees.
That's what I love most about running mine. That reminds me...I gotta take a touch more off my rakers.
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Well, I don't believe it's the carb. It spent a long time in the ultrasonic cleaner, and I even pulled the welch plug this time. It's spotless. But it's still doing the same thing. I think it may be the reeds. Only one reed seals perfectly tight, two are very close to sealed, and one just flat out needs replaced. It's only right off idle that it has an issue. Everywhere else it runs perfectly. Would leaking reeds cause this issue?
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Flipping them over won't help ?
The one that is bad got warped by heat. The little screws were loctited in, and one screw on that one reed wouldn't break loose, so I put heat to it. The reed warped. Otherwise, I was going to flip it over as I did the others.
The only other thing I can think of is the accellerator pump piston in the carb. Perhaps it's not sealing and giving that shot of fuel it needs. I'm still thinking it's that reed though. I'm probably not getting good impulse at idle since the base can't build the proper pressure with that leaking reed. That would also explain the L not tuning quite right.
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stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like it's oiling good. How about opening up that reed cage more that stock and cutting some larger ones from carbon fiber. You can fax boyesen tracings and measurements and they will build you some custom reeds for your application. I was thinking about doing that for my mac 125.
Wow, what a frustrating day! I swapped the reed cage and carb from my 1130G, no dice. I then swapped the ignition, no dice. I noticed that I could back the L screw all the way out and it wouldn't get too rich. If I pulled the choke out part way, throttle response was good, so I knew it was lean. So now I was thinking air leak. All of this on a saw I didn't want to have to turn another screw on after the paint job. I ended up having to pull the right case half off, as it was leaking at that gasket. The flywheel side crank seal was also leaking, between the metal OD of the seal and the case. I put the case back together using sealant on both sides of the gasket, and put green Loctite on the crank seal to case joint. I'll see tomorrow if it'll holds vacuum. What a mess!
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's good that you found the problem. I hope that you don't scuff that nice paint job while reassembling it.
Too late for that
I put a couple chips in it when I had it out cutting wood. The rope grabbed and flipped the saw on it's side. Then on the way home it fell on it's side in the bed and the 5200 messed up the filter cover. I was thoroughly disgusted to say the least. It'll touch up ok, but still sickening. That's the catch 22 with repainting these oldies, and why they often never see wood again when I do.
I finally got the 1050 running like a top, but it kicked my butt. I spent HOURS on that thing today and had it apart a hundred times. Now to collect a few small parts to put the 1130G back together, lol.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
That's a damn good idea SB. If you do that with your Macs, let us know in the Mac thread. I know I've got four saws that I'd swap them into right now....................and will probably have more by the time some Boysens would be available...........
Glad to hear you got 'er running right. I was going to suggest you look at the idle bypass hose for leaks and such. Hope you're not using tygon type line for it. The base of the jug gets too hot for that kind of line, just like an impulse line. Automotive vacuum hose is what I'd use if I had a saw that had that setup. My older XP1020 doesn't....
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