homelite 2100

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grizzletooth

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Hello all. I do plenty of browsing on the site but rarely post. I figured I'd introduce myself, and some puzzles I have with a super 2100 auto. I've worked in power equipment sales and repair for a while now but I'm still young compared to many of the small engine whisperers on this site. I mostly have backyard experience, cars, boats, lawnmowers, weed wakers, tractors, etc. Jack of all trades, master of none. Regardless, I usually take my time and try to do things the right way.

Soo. recently I decided to pickup a Homelite super 2100 auto. Not sure of the year, I'll get pictures of the tag later. Overall it looks to be in pretty good shape. The clutch looks pretty cherry, and piston and cylinder seem to be ok. It has good compression and oh my the torque. I posted earlier about having trouble with the flywheel key shifting/ not sitting on the crank properly. I took the easy way out and put some 660 in with the key. It now has consistent spark. I'm trying to find a new flywheel in the meantime.

Since I rebuilt the carb and ignition, I started to tackle the automatic oiler and manual override. I removed the oil pan and carb housing etc.

I am wondering if I have the correct order for the bearings and springs in the oiler. the order is (oil pickup line, ball bearing, spring){spacer}(ball bearing, spring, screw) Hopefully the pictures help. The other issue is I'm having trouble with the manual oiler and where the large spring goes, also what does the plunger push against and how is pressure held? (the large spring?)

Any help is much appreciated. I have tried looking at the shop manuals online but many of them are blurry and I can't read the part descriptions. I hope to mill a couple of trees and eventually make a few pieces of furniture. the saw will be used on a pine farm in Alabama but mostly cutting hardwood. It currently has a hard nose 30'' carleton bush champ but I'm looking to upgrade.

The first photo shows the order of the oiler bits. are they correct?

Second Photo shows the slot for the manual plunger. Where does the large spring go? What goes in here, what is jammed in there?

Third photo for show.

Thanks again,

DR
 

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If you would clean up the flywheel tapers with valve grinding compound (like I suggested once already) you would not have to find another flywheel. Frankly, what I saw in the picture did not look bad enough to warrant replacement.
 
I'll try cleaning up the flywheel once this method fails. I've taken it off too many times, and now that it's running I can't make myself take it off again haha. Thanks for the oiler diagram, that helps a lot. Looks like I have it the right way, maybe a ball before the screw or vice versa. Still a little confused on the manual plunger.

I'm going for reliability at this point. I only plan on milling a few logs a year. The first will be a 50 year old dying sequoia. Help and opinions appreciated!
 

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