Homelite 340/Solo 654 power problem

[treefrog2]

Hello,

I have acquired a Homelite 340 and after my father in law came over with a newer ECHO saw, I realized that this Homelite was quite under powered. I replaced the old chain with a new chain and it cut much better, however, if pressure is put on the saw it seems to bog down.

I just don't think the saw has the power that it should. I decided to try to adjust the carburetor set screws, but I was unable to get the saw to really scream without it bogging during acceleration. I then removed the carburetor and took it apart to inspect the gaskets and to see if there was any sediment. I did not detect either.

I reinstalled the carburetor and found that the saw would not start. I then took off the air filter and dumped some gasoline in the intake port. The saw started and the coughed and died. I then assumed that it was not getting fuel from the tank.

I noticed that while I was pulling the carburetor out, I had pulled the fuel line up from the hole that led to the gas tank. I inspected the rubber boot that is found between the inside and the outside of the tank. The fuel line passes through this rubber boot into the tank. I noticed that the rubber boot was severed in half and that the rest of the fuel line had dropped into the gas tank. I removed this fuel line from inside the tank and found that it was also connected to the fuel filter.

Since a metal connector also passed through the inside of the fuel line and rubber boot, I was able to reconnect the two ends of the rubber boot (don't ask me how) and reinstall the fuel line.

I was assured now that the carburetor had fuel line connected from the part outside the carburetor all the way to the fuel filter inside the gas tank.

I was positive that the saw would now start since it was clear that I had solved the problem of the carburetor's lack of fuel uptake.

THE SAW WOULD NOT START! Again I primed the carburetor, but it would still cough and die.

What did I screw up?

What would cause the saw to lack power in the first place? Since I got the saw for free, I am willing to mess around with it and even spend some money on it.

Thanks and sorry for the rambling!

-Treefrog2

 

[spike60]

Not completely sure about the 654, but most Solo's had a grommited fuel line. There is a replacement fuel line available from Solo, with the grommit, that can be trimmed to fit any of their saws. If you can find a Solo dealer, you will be OK.

Also, you might need to put a kit in the carb. I suspect that the diaphram may need to be replaced. When you had it apart, did you check to see if it was stiff or pliable?

 

[Justsaws]

How many pulls was it taking to get the saw to start before you took it apart?

How many turns of the screw driver are the carb screws out from lightly seated?

When you pull on the starter is there a feeling of compression? Does the saw make a quiet popping noise as you pull it over?

What size bar and chain?

How does the air filter look?

Did you pull the muffler?

I have one of those saws and they are not power houses but a nice little saw. Does it stall in the cut?

 

[treefrog2]

homelite 340 / solo 654

thanks for the replies,

I took the carb off again and noticed that the diaphram looks like it may have a tear in it. The circular part with the little metal circles in the center is detached along one edge.

I am going to order a gasket replacement kit off the internet (Tillotson HU carb kit DG1-HU).

I just seems strange that the saw would start and run before I took everything apart. I guess it is possible that when I took the metal cover off the diaphram side, I also pulled the small tear in the gasket and made it larger.

To answer the other questions:

Q. How many pulls was it taking to get the saw to start before you took it apart?

A. 2 - 3

Q. How many turns of the screw driver are the carb screws out from lightly seated?

A. I turned them in and then backed them each out one full turn. Then I continued to back out the high idle screw while holding the throttle in until I the saw began to scream. I continued turning it in and out until the saw was the highest pitch I could get it (alot like tuning a guitar)

Q. When you pull on the starter is there a feeling of compression? Does the saw make a quiet popping noise as you pull it over?

A. It does seem as though the saw has compression....meaning there is definitely resistance on the cord when I pull.

Q. What size bar and chain?

A. the bar is 20". I know this may be an issue and I have started to look for a 16" bar to replace the 20"

Q. How does the air filter look?

A. To me the air filter looks good. I have searched online for an air filter replacement and I have not had much luck.

Q. Did you pull the muffler?

A. I did not pull the muffler. If I do pull the muffler, what should I be looking for?

There seems to be parts available for all other Homelite saws except the 340! After reading a post on this forum, someone said that the saw is really a Solo 654 and rebadged as a Homelite. I am not sure if this is the reason that there are not many parts for the 340. I have found photos of the Solo 654 and the saw looks EXACTLY like my Homelite 340.

You have mentioned that the Homelite is not a powerful saw and that may be the case, but at 54 cc and a brand new chain, I don't think it should not be able to cut through a 3/4ths of a foot thick tree. The saw does not stall when cutting, but it slows down enough where it would take forever to get through the tree. I had to stop to see if I could fix the problem.

I have two trees (40 ft oak and a 50 ft maple) in the middle of my backyard right now. It being 55 degrees outside today, I would love to be outside doing some cutting!

Thanks!

-treefrog2

 

[Justsaws]

After tuning the saw to it screaming fast point back out the screw a 1/4 turn or until it starts to flutter. Your saw needs more fuel in the cut. You want it to blubber or four cycle. Running it to lean in the cut will make it lose power and burn it up.

Replace the carb kit and good luck with parts. Put a new fuel filter in it as well.

I use a 20" bar with 3/8 chain on mine and it will power the cut but not if I lean on the saw. Also check your sprocket and bar for power sucking wear. Is it oiling well?

When you pull the muffler you are looking for a nice clean shiny silver piston without any vertical dark grey to black lines or stripes. Hopefully the top of the piston is a dull silver or a lightly sooty black grey color. The cylinder exhaust port should not have a lot of black or brown carbon built up on the walls. Check the muffler to see if it feels or looks as though it is full of carbon.

Good luck.

 

[spike60]

If everything "sounds" right, and you are losing power when you are halfway through the cut, but not in the beginning, then the problem may be a worn clutch.

 

[Gravely Grinch]

Check the plastic intake insulator, with heat and time these things tend to warp and leak at the impulse hole. When you took the carb off you released the tension on that cheap plastic intake and now it won't bolt up tight. I ran into this on a 340, exact same scenario. I took the insulator off, filed it flat and the saw ran again.

 

[CrazyCarl]

340 Homelite

I have 3 340's and I have found I have to replace the seal's every year.Don't know why except possible alignment problems in the machine work of the crank case,But all 3 have plenty of power to pull a 20" bar with a 3/8 chain.The plastic intake can be a problem too.I use a very fine rubbing compound(automotive) and a piece of glass to "mill" the tube flat.Some of Diaphrams on the homelite or tillitson carbs had a tab that engaged into the inlet needle.you might want to check for this as if it does and you dont engage it,it will be on top of the needle and screw up the settings.Just a thought.

 

[treefrog2]

Hey,

Thanks for the replies. i was just down working on the saw and decided to come up and check Arboristsite.

I haven't tried your replies yet, but I have some more info that MAY lead to the solution, as I have yet to get the saw running.

I replaced the fuel line with temporary clear plastic tubing that I could see if the carburetor was taking up gas from the gas tank. It was not, so I fabricated my own rubber boot from the old fuel line. The rubber boot I'
m talking about is connected to a metal grommet? that passes from the outside of the fuel tank to the inside of the fuel tank.

Anyway, the carburetor was still not taking up fuel, so I took the carb apart again (I am still waiting for the gasket kit to arrive) and took a clean nail and passed it through all the ports I could find to see if there was a speck of dirt inside. Nothing. I really do not think replacing the gaskets is going to solve the problem, but I will try anyway.

So, I put everything back together and the carb would still not take up gas. I checked to make sure the fuel line was still connected from the carb all the way to the fuel filter. I then thought of something. Maybe a vacuum was not being created because I was always trying to start the saw without the air filter on. So I installed the air filter and put the choke on. THE SAW STARTED! However, as soon as I took the choke off it stalled. I tried numerous times the get it to run with the choke off, but nothing worked.
I knew it was time to put the saw down and try another day because I was about to take the gasoline mix and light the saw on fire.

GRAVELY GRINCH, you mentioned to file the cheap plastic insulator flat. I will try that although, when you said leak, I am assuming you meant gasoline. I am not sure the insulator is the problem because the gas doesn't even get up to that insulator. However, is it possible that it is not seated properly and taking in air? If that was true, would that little bit of air really cause the carb to not take gas up from the tank? Also, do you mean that the plastic insulator should be filed on the end that fits against the side of the carburetor? As I am typing this, I am remembering that I cut the fuel hose a little long and that plastic insulator is not seated flush because of this.

Crazy Carl, you wrote, "Some of Diaphrams on the homelite or tillitson carbs had a tab that engaged into the inlet needle.you might want to check for this as if it does and you dont engage it,it will be on top of the needle and screw up the settings.Just a thought." Also, you mentioned that you’ve had to replace 3 seals on your 340……which seal are you talking about? It sounds like the seal from the carburetor to the cylinder assembly, is that correct?

My question is, is that tab you mentioned part of the rubber gasket/diaphram? Also, when you say "engaged into the inlet needle," I guess I am not sure how to check for that. As far as I know, there are two gaskets on either side of the carburetor and I am guessing that you are simply saying that I should check to make sure that I reinstalled them correctly. In other words, I when I took apart the carburetor, I may have reinstalled these gaskets either upside down or turned 180 degrees off. I guess this is possible and I will check that by trying different combinations to see if the saw starts.

So, are there any ideas, other than the ones mentioned, as to why the saw would run when choked, but not when the choke was off?

Thanks for all the replies......I am determined to figure this out and with your help, I just may!

I will reply with the outcome of my lastest attempts! In the meantime, I am borrowing a friends little Stihl!

-Treefrog2

 

[Log Splitter]

thanks for the replies,

I took the carb off again and noticed that the diaphragm looks like it may have a tear in it. The circular part with the little metal circles in the center is detached along one edge.


-treefrog2

Having just done a carb rebuild today, if your carburetor is like my Walbro, the diaphragm you are describing is on the fuel pump side of the carb. If it is torn like you described, that's your problem.

 

[treefrog2]

Thanks Log Splitter,

Unfortunately, I misdiagnosed the problem (I think). The diaphragm was not ripped, rather it seems to be two gaskets. One gasket being the diaphragm and the other gasket going directly over the diaphragm. I thought that edge was ripped, but it was just that the two gaskets were separating and I was able to separate them both. Over time, I guess they just "glued" together.

When I get the gasket kit I have been waiting for, I will know for sure if that was the problem.

 

[spike60]

Treefrog;

I'd say that you should just let it sit until you get your carb kit in, as that is likely your problem. If the diaphram is bad, then no matter what else you do and no matter how many times you try, the problem won't go away. If the kit doesn't work, you can always check this other stuff later.