Homelite Kicks back real hard when trying to start

[plnewton]

Hi All,

I have a little Homelite saw, it runs ok when it starts but when you are trying to start it the thing kicks back all the time, almost rips my arm off half the time.

It is almost like the timing is out on it but I did not think you could adjust timing on 2 Stroke engines???

The last time I ran it I was also getting a few sparks coming out the exhaust which I thought was some concern, never seen this before on any of my other saws..

Any hekp would be appreciated..

Cheers!!

Paul

PS: this is only a little saw by the way 32cc, I would feel like a litte girl if someone posts anything about it needing a decompression vallve

 

[buzz sawyer]

I agree, sounds like timing is overadvanced. My ignition experience is mainly with automobiles, but I know if the point gap is too wide, it will effectively advance the timing.

 

[plnewton]

My thoughts exactly..

Can anyone tell me the correct gap?
The saw is actually a Homelite i4450b (not a 32cc as I mentioned)


Cheers!!

 

[buzz sawyer]

My 1050 is .015". It may be stamped or cast on the housing near the points.

 

[climber1423]

Its in the area of .025 I cant find the specs on that exact saw but ones very similar.

Dan

 

[cuttinscott]

I know I'm not too familiar with the chinese homelites but I don't really think this saw has points. It probably has electronic ignition you will probably want to check the flywheel key, coil air gap probably .012" - .016" just a guess. Or just something working loose like a bolt behind the flywheel.
Scott

 

[plnewton]

cuttinscott is right there are no points on it and I have checked the cap and it seems about right, I have adjusted it to a few close measurements and still the same so I put it back to where it was.

I also thought I would give it a few yanks with the spark plug out and it is ver smooth, I stuck the plug back in but did not connect the plug cable and it did the same thing, perhaps not a kick back as such but it is still extremly hard to pull.

I have a 62cc Jonsered as well and after a couple of pulls it is nice a smooth, you can feel it has heaps of compression but it does not lockup like the homelite does.

The homelite runs really well once you get it going but it just about rips your hand off to get it there..
it is actually that bad that I am on the second plastic pully on the recoil as it stripped the last one.


any other thoughts..

 

[Farley9n]

What are the chances of a big carbon build up increasing the compression??????

 

[RaisedByWolves]

What you diagnosed as vapor lock is probably a flooded condition caused by the fuel expanding due to heat.


This fuel is flooding the saw and causing it to hydraulic.

 

[plnewton]

Doesn't look like big carbon buildup, I took the muffler off also to clear the spark resistor and it was not as bad as what I expected.

if it was flooding wouldn't it be hard to start??

it is not that hard to start, if you can get a couple of good pulls without it kicking back it will start easy and usually if you go at it without a worry of your your rist it will start right away..

 

[zimmy]

put a new ignition module in it and it will fire up no worries had a jonsered that did same thing new module been working fine since

 

[plnewton]

If it was anything to do with the ignition it would only do it when it is firing, it does it even with the spark plug lead disconnected..

Did your Jonsered do it even with the kill switch set to off?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Doesn't look like big carbon buildup, I took the muffler off also to clear the spark resistor and it was not as bad as what I expected.

if it was flooding wouldn't it be hard to start??

it is not that hard to start, if you can get a couple of good pulls without it kicking back it will start easy and usually if you go at it without a worry of your your rist it will start right away..

Sorry, I had my threads crossed. Drinkin beer and cross threaded things ya see.:hmm3grin2orange:

""If it was anything to do with the ignition it would only do it when it is firing, it does it even with the spark plug lead disconnected..""


Thats what made me think it were flooded, that and beer.

 

[JohnL]

Not having points the things that could effect timing are coil to flywheel gap, I run 0.007" to .010", could be a bad coil, or could be the flywheel is not sitting at the correct position on the crank because of a damaged key.

If it is not ignition related, try spinning it over without the spark plug, maybe a compression issue, or hydrolock like someone mentioned. The little XL I have will fill the crankcase with bar oil and lock up the cylinder if parked on it's side for too long.

 

[sawn_penn]

My 288xp liked to bite my hand too. I bought a stihl elastostart handle and it fixed the problem nicely.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=32125

Probably about $12 if you are in Melbourne, Florida. $30 if you are in Melbourne, Australia.

 

[Lenard White]

Hard pull

I would think it could be coked up in that you said it had sparks coming out the arrestor. That would be glowing carbon bits. They will get that way running rich on oil , cutting at slow speeds, cold plug or wide air gap on the dynamo which will make it run late. Other than that a too narrow gap on the dynamo will have them firing early and give you some kick back problems. I have a Homey SXL 130 that I bought running poorly and it turned out the dynamo gap was 010 mm instead of 0.10mm. among other tune related issues. When I changed it to the narrower gap you could definitely feel the bit of a kick on the start rope. I didnt have brass feelers so I used a double strip of bond paper which may be a bit narrow.