Sachs-Dolmar 120 Super parts needed!

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Piston looks pretty bad but Dolmar cylinder coating are extremely nard. I've cleaned up cylinders which appeared the same before examination. Pistons are available from Meteor, same as 120i and 6800i. I realise the studs have been snapped but after removal of cylinder can normally be extracted with a bit of heat. Do you know the reason for the seize? straight gas or air leak / or carb settings? It would be better to know before disassembly
 
Piston looks pretty bad but Dolmar cylinder coating are extremely nard. I've cleaned up cylinders which appeared the same before examination. Pistons are available from Meteor, same as 120i and 6800i. I realise the studs have been snapped but after removal of cylinder can normally be extracted with a bit of heat. Do you know the reason for the seize? straight gas or air leak / or carb settings? It would be better to know before disassembly
I checked , I have 90 psi, not great. I wasn't using proper gas. I now use recreational gas with 2 cycle amsoil oil. Yes, their is a harden drill in one hole, and easy out in the other. I was using heat and pb blaster for days. When you have screw made of steel and aluminum cylinder and 25+ years, you get problems.
 
Piston looks pretty bad but Dolmar cylinder coating are extremely nard. I've cleaned up cylinders which appeared the same before examination. Pistons are available from Meteor, same as 120i and 6800i. I realise the studs have been snapped but after removal of cylinder can normally be extracted with a bit of heat. Do you know the reason for the
Piston looks pretty bad but Dolmar cylinder coating are extremely nard. I've cleaned up cylinders which appeared the same before examination. Pistons are available from Meteor, same as 120i and 6800i. I realise the studs have been snapped but after removal of cylinder can normally be extracted with a bit of heat. Do you know the reason for the seize? straight gas or air leak / or carb settings? It would be better to know before disassembly
seize? straight gas or air leak / or carb settings? It would be better to know before disassembly
 

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It looks like it would clean up to me. The worst is below the ports so it's worth having a go, it's surprising how they clean up. The Dolmar cylinders have probably the hardest / thickest or at least one of the hardest coating around! You must remove all aluminium transfer from the cylinder otherwise it will pick up again. The best video I've seen in my opinion is from Mastermind, see below. If you haven't changed the crank seals in 25 years I think I would change then when you have it down. I would use a Meteor piston, OE quality, one thing I noticed on the last ones I fitted were the piston skirt very slightly touched the crank, just needing a small dressing! Just loose fit the piston and turn motor over and you will see. I can't remember if it was 47mm or 49mm pistons, but for a couple of minutes it's worth a check. Use 40:1 and an FD rated 2 stroke oil, Red Armour , but plenty of threads on oils!
Good luck!
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/
 
It looks like it would clean up to me. The worst is below the ports so it's worth having a go, it's surprising how they clean up. The Dolmar cylinders have probably the hardest / thickest or at least one of the hardest coating around! You must remove all aluminium transfer from the cylinder otherwise it will pick up again. The best video I've seen in my opinion is from Mastermind, see below. If you haven't changed the crank seals in 25 years I think I would change then when you have it down. I would use a Meteor piston, OE quality, one thing I noticed on the last ones I fitted were the piston skirt very slightly touched the crank, just needing a small dressing! Just loose fit the piston and turn motor over and you will see. I can't remember if it was 47mm or 49mm pistons, but for a couple of minutes it's worth a check. Use 40:1 and an FD rated 2 stroke oil, Red Armour , but plenty of threads on oils!
Good luck!
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/how-to-remove-aluminum-transfer-without-acid.248325/

Thanks for the info. If I can't find a new or a good used cylinder I won't go forward on the repair. Braking off a hardened drill bit in one and hardened easy out screw extractor in the other, was not the brightest thing to do.
 
Understood! To be honest as it's fitted with the under flywheel ignition, ( not so common and quite hard to find) it's worth ok money for spares!
 
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