Homelite Oil Tank Stuck?

[MEATSAW]

I am having some issues removing the oil tank on a Homelite SXL (1968). It does not have the manual oiler. I have removed all the bolts and the oil pump. I don't see any other bolts or screws to remove. It will move and spin about 30 degrees, but it will not come free. Could anyone offer some tips to get this removed?

I could use an IPL too. I have the manual, but obviously thats not very useful right now.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I am having some issues removing the oil tank on a Homelite SXL (1968). It does not have the manual oiler. I have removed all the bolts and the oil pump. I don't see any other bolts or screws to remove. It will move and spin about 30 degrees, but it will not come free. Could anyone offer some tips to get this removed?

I could use an IPL too. I have the manual, but obviously thats not very useful right now.

I was having exactly the same think with my SXL. I know that will come off but I guess after time some of them get stuck. I tried hitting it with a rubber hammer which didn't work. What I was told was to leave it on there and go to the other side and remove the three bolts holding the gas tank on and the four bolts holding the handle assembly on after you remove the carb. I guess you could then remove the bolts on the oil tank if that's what you're trying to do.

 

[MEATSAW]

Yea I was not expecting this to have to be a full tear down. There was a small oil leak, so I hoping to have the tank off and sealed up tonight and put back together tomorrow. Not if I have to take the whole damn thing apart! :bang:

What is it that is causing it to be in a bind?

I have the IPL now, trying to figure this out. Wife doesn't like it when I take over the spare bedroom with my messy projects

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I imagine it's a bearing that's stuck from being in there for all these years. I had an XL12 that came right off, just gave it a little pull. The Super XL was stuck so tight I was afraid of breaking something so I left it where it was. You could probably rig up a puller or apply a little heat to the bearing, but then you may have to replace the bearing. I do think it should come apart there since my first one did. I tried prying on it also but was afraid to put too much pressure on it.

 

[Eccentric]

The copper oil line is hanging you up. If you're moving the drivecase that much, then you've most likely trashed the line. They're fragile. There's a fitting up high (near the top handle bracket). IIRC you'll need to remove the gas tank to be able get to that fitting. Might well have been the line or fitting that was leaking BTW.

To pull the gas tank, you need to remove the flywheel and the ignition bracket. Under that stuff are the three screws that secure the fuel tank. It will slide off the flywheel side of the crankcase (giving you access to that damn oil line). The drivecase (which includes the oil tank on the auto oiler saws) is also the crankcase cover and PTO side bearing retainer.

 

[67L36Driver]

The copper oil line is hanging you up. If you're moving the drivecase that much, then you've most likely trashed the line. They're fragile. There's a fitting up high (near the top handle bracket). IIRC you'll need to remove the gas tank to be able get to that fitting. Might well have been the line or fitting that was leaking BTW.

To pull the gas tank, you need to remove the flywheel and the ignition bracket. Under that stuff are the three screws that secure the fuel tank. It will slide off the flywheel side of the crankcase (giving you access to that damn oil line). The drivecase (which includes the oil tank on the auto oiler saws) is also the crankcase cover and PTO side bearing retainer.

Very much like this Remington.

The above show the three screws removed and engine slid an inch or so away from the fuel tank.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

However, even when I removed the gas tank, the oiler side was still stuck on my saw. It's where the bearing and crankshaft meet, it just wouldn't pull away, even when the oil lines were taken off. They're supposed to come off but they won't unless you resort to heat, destroying the seal or really hit it hard to loosen it. I was reluctant to hit it that hard.

I have a feeling that, with all the fuel mix going through the case and with time, the mix turns to varnish, more or less gluing it together.

 

[Eccentric]

However, even when I removed the gas tank, the oiler side was still stuck on my saw. It's where the bearing and crankshaft meet, it just wouldn't pull away, even when the oil lines were taken off. They're supposed to come off but they won't unless you resort to heat, destroying the seal or really hit it hard to loosen it. I was reluctant to hit it that hard.

I have a feeling that, with all the fuel mix going through the case and with time, the mix turns to varnish, more or less gluing it together.

That could very well be...................but the oil line looks to still be connected in his pic. Varnish or no varnish...........that line needs to be disconnected. In his pic, you can see the oil line snaking up past the ex port and right between the drivecase and fuel tank at the top of the saw behind the handlebar bracket.

 

[MEATSAW]

Update

Well, I guess I was fated to take the whole damn thing apart. So I did, and in a weird sort of way I am glad I did. It will give me a chance to clean it up, replace some gaskets, replace the piston/rings, clean up some carbon from the cylinder, etc, etc.

Aaron, yes in the pic the oil line was still connected but I do not think that was the issue. Once I disconnected it the oil case still would not come free. Its actually not a problem now because I can access all the things that I need to. I can replace the oil tank gasket which was the cause of the oil leak in the first place. Here are some pictures of my rebuild so far (or unbuild perhaps?).

 

[MEATSAW]

Oh and of course my wife sent in her secret agent to get me to hurry up and get my mess cleaned up. Its hard to withstand puppy eyes.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That could very well be...................but the oil line looks to still be connected in his pic. Varnish or no varnish...........that line needs to be disconnected. In his pic, you can see the oil line snaking up past the ex port and right between the drivecase and fuel tank at the top of the saw behind the handlebar bracket.

Mine was exactly like his, I disconnected the oil line(s) and it still would not come loose, it would turn but not pull out. I ended up not pulling it but my problem wasn't the oil tank, mine was the fuel tank so I just pulled it. I would have tried the blowtorch on it but didn't want to replace any more parts than I had to. It's probably destined for 'the bay.

 

[greg409]

Mine was exactly like his, I disconnected the oil line(s) and it still would not come loose, it would turn but not pull out. I ended up not pulling it but my problem wasn't the oil tank, mine was the fuel tank so I just pulled it. I would have tried the blowtorch on it but didn't want to replace any more parts than I had to. It's probably destined for 'the bay.

Thanx for the headsup!! LOL

luck,greg

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanx for the headsup!! LOL

luck,greg

On a serious note, I put it back together and the tank doesn't leak and the saw seems to run and oil just fine. The reason it's headed for 'the bay is that I already have about a half dozen of these saws and really don't need another. If someone wanted a firewood saw this is about as good as any.