homelite super 2000

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slowsuki

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this is my first post. i am trying to remove clutch from homelite super 2000 i stuffed cylender with pull cord and removed nut and cover to expose clutch. now i need to remove hub and sprocket does it take a special tool. i don't want to break it seems to be hard to come by parts for these saws .thanks
 
If it's like my 2100 Homelite, you can use a clutch wrench like Stihl sells for 045/075s, etc. Ought to be a left-hand thread, just like the nut. Normally, I would suggest using a hammer and punch (or chisel) to spin the clutch pack but you are right about not wanting to risk damage to the parts.

Chris B.
 
Well I just happened to have a picture of a 2100 clutch,how about that.Just remove the nut and plate and it should pop right off.As you see,the spider is splined.
 
Al Smith said:
Well I just happened to have a picture of a 2100 clutch,how about that.Just remove the nut and plate and it should pop right off.As you see,the spider is splined.


Al,

I have the upmost respect for you and I hate to do this but I have to disagree. The original question was in regard to a 2000 which has a threaded spider. The pic you posted is of a 2100S which indeed uses a splined spider. The 2000, 2100, and Super 2100 all used a threaded spider. The 2100 Super used the splined spider. That is what you have pictured and I am willing to buy it at your price.

Bill
 
Thanks for setting me straight.I thought all the 2000's/2100 had splined cranks.Geez Bill,I can't sell it,it's the only one I have and I can't seem to buy one from E-bay.As it seems some B---Saws,has a fondness for them also:laugh: Speaking of which,did you ever find the clutches for that pair you had a bit of trouble getting?
 
While both you Homey experts are focused on Clutch/Spider issues..

I have XP-1000, 1020 series saws. They have the threaded type spiders.
Replacement Drums/clutches from Oregon are available according to
part numbers but they are slightly different that the OEM Homelite drums.

The origional Homelite Drums had a inner race (cylindrical part) that slides
over the crank shaft. The Oregon parts just have a needle bearing that
rides directly on the crankshaft with no separate inner race.

My question is will those oregon drums work? Reason for the question
is I think the clutch spider threads until it stops on that "inner" race
on the origional Homelite parts and with the oregon that would bind up
that drum unless you use a thinner thrust washer between the clutch
drum and the oil pump. That would allow the spider to stop when it runs out
of threads on the crank shaft.....is that OK??? My instincts are that's
not the right way but the parts numbers provided by oregon only have
drums without that inner race.

Whats your opinion?
 
I have one for the 1050. Just email me what you want for Part Numbers
and I will email them in reply. Randy's Small Engine Repair will sell you
a copy of an origional. If you wait long enough they turn up on E-bay
 
thanks for all your imput. I am going to try to find a tool to do it with so i dont damage the clutch I can see where someone else has in the past tryed to remove and looks like they had problems to . l will try my local shops to see if they have a wrech that will work thanks.
 
Slowsuki:

I just went through this with my titan. Snap-on makes a spanner wrench with 1/4" pins....but it's over $40!

Here's what I made to do the same thing....funny it wound up working better with a friend holding the flywheel and tapping the tool with a hammer than using a wrench on the bolt head....
 
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