Homelite Super XL Auto question

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sawjo

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I have an older (blue/white) Homelite SXL Auto that I am trying to refurbish.
Can anyone tell me how to get the drive case off the crankshaft? I have a parts listing and it shows a seal and a retaining clip. Can I remove the seal and get at the clip from the drive side?
TIA. :confused:
 
Hi, Checked a SXL parts breakdown. Shows seal on outside of drive case.
Looks like the retaining ring is on the inside of the drive case and holds ball bearing in place. Bearing screws on the inside of drive case hold the bearing.You have to remove the screws. Maybe, one of the chainsaw techs has had one apart and give further instruction.
Good Luck
Ray
 
To get the case off the crank you have to remove 2 screws and flat clips that hold the bearing on the drive side of the housing, and then push the crank and bearing out of the aluminum housing. Then you can get at the bearing clip. This assumes that you have completely torn it apart including taking the con rod off the crank because this is the only way you can pull it out of the main housing. I have mine apart at the moment waiting for new piston rings to be delivered, here are some pictures.
The bare crank is off of an Xl-1, but they are built the same just smaller. The clip is hard to get off without nicking the crank, I just soak the bearing and clean it while it is installed. The bearings seem pretty well made, I have not replaced any yet because they clean up nice. The seal can be replaced after you take the crank off,it seats in the housing. They could probably be removed with a special puller without taking apart the whole saw, but thats something few of us have.
 
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Let me post a picture of a seal puller,later,when I get off work,this afternoon.If you have a slide hammer,and a skinny seal tool,they come out easily,at least they do on a McCulloch .I have never changed a seal on a Homey,as I only own one [2100s],and the seals are fine,on it.
 
NeTree,
I am in Kingston - born and raised in that area.
I have got the old Homelite apart, well at least the cases are off - I have to get the jug off and remove the piston. It was a dump pick in really nice shape and running. I just can't leave well enough alone. It needs the roll pins that align the drivecase with the crankcase I also figured I'd put rings on it and generally have look over of the whole saw. I was going to look into a med/large saw to take down a dozen huge pine trees on my property - but if I can get this saw together I think it will serve me just right. This saw seems to be pretty powerful for my home-owner needs, plus, they are put together well.
 
Here ya go,right from the Homelite book.Sorry about the quality,but you can read it.
 
sawjo, used to do alot of partying over Hummarock, after we got booted out of the pits in Rock-vegas-land.

Those days were tha balls.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Al, is that repair manual still available? would like to see torque specs and the like. I have torn into a bunch of small motors (Lawn Boys etc.) but this is my first chainsaw.
 
I don't think the manual is still in print.It was part of a dealers package I got from e-bay.I will see if I can find the torque specs,and make a post .
 
Intertec Publishing puts out a Chain Saw Service Manual about
every 5 or 6 years.The 10th edition(1998) is the latest with a
new edition due out soon.My 9th edition(1993) is over 550 pages and has 29 manufacturers listed - from Allis Chalmers to Tanaka.
The 6th edition(1980) has 20 manufacturers from Allis Chalmers to Stihl.It is a little over 300 pages.
If you have a library close they should have some of the editions.
You can purchase them on Amazon.com,Walmart.com or E-bay under $20.
Ray
 
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