Homelite super XL automatic

[Luke Heidland]

I have a super XL automatic oiler that was given to me by my grandpa that he bought it new. Can anyone tell about what year it is there is no tag on it any more, and if the color combo is right or of it should be all bike? I rebuilt the carb, put new fuel line on it, and put a new spark plug in it, i started with 32:1 fuel bit switched to 40:1 fuel because there was a lot of oil on the muffler. I had it running for about 15 to 20 minutes trying to tune the carburetor then it's sputtered a bit and did not want to run or idle at all so I pulled the spark plug out and the gap was almost completely closed so I got a new NGK plug. But I don't want to run it yet if I'm just going to have to buy a new spark plug again, i know this is caused by piston slap, but it has good compression i can hold it up by tge pull string and it doesnt drop, also the rod bearings feel tight along with the wrist pin, and crank bearings, what could cause this? I would really like to be able to get the saw running so I can use it and keep it in the family. Any help is appreciated, thanks Luke.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Your saw is a frankensaw, made up of parts from at least two different colored saw, they came in 3 different color combinations but not half orange/half blue/white. What type of sparkplug did it have that the gap got closed up on, maybe it was a longer reach plug. Picts of the plug would be helpful.

 

[oologahan]

Looks like most of the saw is a 1967-1973 Homelite Super XL Auto, and the handle is of a post 1974 Super XL or XL 12 vintage, not a big deal, they do get broken. If it has a metal tag with a 7 digit s/n near the switch the year can be approximated, if it is a vinyl sticker with 8 digit s/n on the side of the airbox the year can be identified to the month.

 

[svk]

Like Oologahan said, with the blue case it is an older saw. I think it looks neat with the red rear handle and handlebar brace. I have several of them in various states of repair and am determined to make a runner out of one or two of them!

I am learning that Homelite made many different combinations of the different saw families. We are still trying to figure out exactly what model one of my saws is!

 

[oologahan]

Like Oologahan said, with the blue case it is an older saw. I think it looks neat with the red rear handle and handlebar brace. I have several of them in various states of repair and am determined to make a runner out of one or two of them!

I am learning that Homelite made many different combinations of the different saw families. We are still trying to figure out exactly what model one of my saws is!

Your old blue with a tinge of red saw is likely a Super XL- Automatic, you can tell these from the top oil fill, the X-12 had oil fill in the bottom by the handle and were a lighter and slimmer saw. The did make a Super XL-12 Auto or manual as well, but its a longshot to be one of these. Given the fac that the handle support is red and the handle is chrome looking and not green or brushed looking, its say whatever broke the back handle also smashed the top handle as well.

 

[Okie]

If it had the correct spark plug the gap was probably too close before you started the engine.
Usually what causes the spark plug gap on a chainsaw to close up (get too close) is someone had the muffler off and run a piece of rope in the exhaust port to lock the crankshaft for removing the clutch and the rope touched the spark plug tip and reduced the gap. (seen this happen few times)
Engine will start sometimes and then not run correct, acts like bad carb or erratic ignition, plug will eventually flood and die.
Install new correct plug and go again. You might leave the kill switch off crank the saw over several times with the old plug or new plug and then remove and see if the plug still has the correct .025-.030 gap.
Doubtful that a piece of hard carbon hit the plug tip and reduced the gap. It's ok to run the saw with 40 or 50 to 1 mix with the new modern mix oils and best to not use corn gas. You could do a squish test if desired but doubtful it's the piston too close to the plug tip. (you can review squish testing for piston clearance on a chainsaw.

I would remove the muffler and take a peek at the piston and cylinder and see if they look ok. (no scratches) This looking at piston area lets you know you are not whipping on a horse that has cancer or dying if you see a scored piston.

Let us know how it acts after you install a new CORRECT type spark plug.

May have to do some further carb work and if you are ever where you see the 4 jug to block cylinder stud nuts on the old Homelites see that they are tight. they have tendency to loosen due to the gasket compressing with age and cause air leak at the jug base and erratic running, acts like bad carb.

 

[oologahan]

If it had the correct spark plug the gap was probably too close before you started the engine.
Usually what causes the spark plug gap on a chainsaw to close up (get too close) is someone had the muffler off and run a piece of rope in the exhaust port to lock the crankshaft for removing the clutch and the rope touched the spark plug tip and reduced the gap. (seen this happen few times)
Engine will start sometimes and then not run correct, acts like bad carb or erratic ignition, plug will eventually flood and die.
Install new correct plug and go again. You might leave the kill switch off crank the saw over several times with the old plug or new plug and then remove and see if the plug still has the correct .025-.030 gap.
Doubtful that a piece of hard carbon hit the plug tip and reduced the gap. It's ok to run the saw with 40 or 50 to 1 mix with the new modern mix oils and best to not use corn gas. You could do a squish test if desired but doubtful it's the piston too close to the plug tip. (you can review squish testing for piston clearance on a chainsaw.

I would remove the muffler and take a peek at the piston and cylinder and see if they look ok. (no scratches) This looking at piston area lets you know you are not whipping on a horse that has cancer or dying if you see a scored piston.

Let us know how it acts after you install a new CORRECT type spark plug.

May have to do some further carb work and if you are ever where you see the 4 jug to block cylinder stud nuts on the old Homelites see that they are tight. they have tendency to loosen and cause air leak at the jug base and erratic running, acts like bad carb.

It's much easier to run the rope down the spark plug hole rather that the muffler port, you just have to make sure you have the piston above the port.