I’ve used grommets from the yellow bin box in the electrical aisle at my local Ace Hardware.
[emoji106]
Seem to be fuel resistant.
[emoji106]
Seem to be fuel resistant.
Homelite VI-123
- Thread starter NickCawks
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Sorry for the slow response guys. My last week was very unexpectedly busy.
I haven't got the saw fired up yet, just had too much going on to even fool with it, but I'll let you guys know when I do!
After measuring the grommet that was on the saw I hit amazon in search of a kit that had a size that would work for me. Figured for 10 bucks I might as well just get a whole set and have them for the future. I ended up going with this set because it had the 7.94mm OD and 5.57mm ID which worked well to replace the 8.5mm OD x 6.00mm ID OEM one. Even though the outer diameter is a tiny bit smaller it still sealed in the hole and the smaller ID really clamps down on the hose. Not to mention the OEM grommet was extremely dried out and hardened so I was a little weary of the measurements in the first place, but happy with the outcome.
I haven't got the saw fired up yet, just had too much going on to even fool with it, but I'll let you guys know when I do!
After measuring the grommet that was on the saw I hit amazon in search of a kit that had a size that would work for me. Figured for 10 bucks I might as well just get a whole set and have them for the future. I ended up going with this set because it had the 7.94mm OD and 5.57mm ID which worked well to replace the 8.5mm OD x 6.00mm ID OEM one. Even though the outer diameter is a tiny bit smaller it still sealed in the hole and the smaller ID really clamps down on the hose. Not to mention the OEM grommet was extremely dried out and hardened so I was a little weary of the measurements in the first place, but happy with the outcome.
finally got back into the chainsaw. It will run if I put gas in the carb, but is still not delivering fuel from the tank.
Went ahead and broke into the carb. Following the issue, with the fuel line, the inside of the carb was surprisingly clean and all the passages were free of junk.
Unfortunately, the diaphragm was dry rotted. I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit. I'll let you guys know the results.
Went ahead and broke into the carb. Following the issue, with the fuel line, the inside of the carb was surprisingly clean and all the passages were free of junk.
Unfortunately, the diaphragm was dry rotted. I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit. I'll let you guys know the results.
afternoon fellas.
Got the carb kit in for the saw and did the rebuild.
I've left with some good and some bad news
The Good:
-Chainsaw will run and is now delivering gas.
The Bad:
-It won't start unless I put gas in the carb. Once I do that, 3 pulls later it starts right up and will continue running until I switch it off.
-When the chainsaw starts it guns it to full throttle. I have played around with the idle speed screw which had little to no effect. I was thinking maybe it's running really lean and turned the low-speed needle out a full turn (1/4 at a time) and got not changes
-What's particularly interesting is if I pull the throttle, it lowers the rpm drastically and if I keep holding it the saw dies.
My base assumption is to think that it is running lean still. I can tell the thing is running very hot when it's on, but that could also just be because it's going from cold to full throttle. My next assumption would be an air leak, but I really can't think of where there would be one. Are there common failure spots on these saws I should be looking at?
As always thanks for any and all advice! I'm ready to get this thing going so lay it on me!
Got the carb kit in for the saw and did the rebuild.
I've left with some good and some bad news
The Good:
-Chainsaw will run and is now delivering gas.
The Bad:
-It won't start unless I put gas in the carb. Once I do that, 3 pulls later it starts right up and will continue running until I switch it off.
-When the chainsaw starts it guns it to full throttle. I have played around with the idle speed screw which had little to no effect. I was thinking maybe it's running really lean and turned the low-speed needle out a full turn (1/4 at a time) and got not changes
-What's particularly interesting is if I pull the throttle, it lowers the rpm drastically and if I keep holding it the saw dies.
My base assumption is to think that it is running lean still. I can tell the thing is running very hot when it's on, but that could also just be because it's going from cold to full throttle. My next assumption would be an air leak, but I really can't think of where there would be one. Are there common failure spots on these saws I should be looking at?
As always thanks for any and all advice! I'm ready to get this thing going so lay it on me!
Did you clean the carb? Sounds like either the low jet is plugged or you have an air leak. Tillotson hs carb?
I did clean the carb pretty thoroughly when I had it apart including the needle ports.
It's an SDC that was branded by Homelite and I thought was manufactured by Walboro, but on the carb itself it says "A Textron division"
I will have a little time this evening I'm gonna get back into the carb and really make sure the needles are clean. Does anyone know what the factory settings for the needles are? I set them at 1 and 1/4 out on the LS and 1/4 out on the HS hoping this would be a good place to start while I tuned it.
It's an SDC that was branded by Homelite and I thought was manufactured by Walboro, but on the carb itself it says "A Textron division"
I will have a little time this evening I'm gonna get back into the carb and really make sure the needles are clean. Does anyone know what the factory settings for the needles are? I set them at 1 and 1/4 out on the LS and 1/4 out on the HS hoping this would be a good place to start while I tuned it.
Attachments
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)- Latest: sean donato
-
Fiskars Handle on Super Splitting Axe
- Latest: AmateurSawer
-
-
-
-
-