Homelite XL-12

[Canadian Cutter]

Hey folks, thought I might reach out for some help.
Got an old Homelite Blue XL-12 on the side of the road (fall clean up) she looked well taken care of .. everyone says these old girls are worth fixing , if the piston / rings look good.

- good spark
- removed the muffler, piston rings look good, good compression
- removed the flywheel, completely cleaned the points (carb cleaner) and the white piece of paper pulled through the points several times til clean (I didnt check the points gap or the timing)
- complete Tiliston carb kit installed very slowly / carefully ....... I adjusted the HI / LOW screws as per what most recommend (LOW unscrew 1 1/4, HI unscrew 1 full turn)
- everyone says the ignition coil rarely fails, so I just cleaned it
- Tested the condenser on a wood surface with the ohm meter, looks good
- the switch needed to be re soldered to the lead (done) but I havent actually tested the switch itself, might be worth replacing.
- will be replacing the fuel line and filter today (though they look good, filter is clean and line is supple with no cracks / leaks)
- plug has pretty good spark , maybe should be replaced none the less ?

she kicked and ran for 10 seconds when I brought her home with new gas but would not stay running ....... now after all the above work she still wont run, kicks every 3 or 4 pulls but wont fully start or run ? thoughts , maybe the condenser is bad ? maybe the points are bad ?

 

[clint53]

she kicked and ran for 10 seconds when I brought her home with new gas but would not stay running .......

When it did run for those 10 seconds, did the RPM's rev up on it's own and then die?
Clint

 

[medalist]

Leave an inline spark tester on plug.
Old saw like that I'd be doing a vacuum/ pressure test on crank seals and other possible leak issues.

Good luck. That saw causes me to remember old Mercury outboards.

 

[Canadian Cutter]

When it did run for those 10 seconds, did the RPM's rev up on it's own and then die?
Clint

yes somewhat but she was pretty much unresponsive to the trigger, started up reved up a bit but as I tried to give it throttle, nothing, then it would die, then it would re start something ....... now it wont even fully start, a few good kicks every third or 4th pull.

 

[clint53]

yes somewhat but she was pretty much unresponsive to the trigger, started up reved up a bit but as I tried to give it throttle, nothing, then it would die, then it would re start something ....... now it wont even fully start, a few good kicks every third or 4th pull.

That sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

 

[clint53]

yes somewhat but she was pretty much unresponsive to the trigger, started up reved up a bit but as I tried to give it throttle, nothing, then it would die, then it would re start something ....... now it wont even fully start, a few good kicks every third or 4th pull.

I just had the exact same symptoms on a 330. It was the intake rubber boot under the carb was rotten. Did the gaskets under the carb seem okay?

 

[Canadian Cutter]

I just had the exact same symptoms on a 330. It was the intake rubber boot under the carb was rotten. Did the gaskets under the carb seem okay?

I replaced them all

 

[Canadian Cutter]

That sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

hmm, so it sounds like it may be worth removing the flywheel again and replacing the crank seal ? I probably should have done that but it seems to have no play in it, nice and tight (but I guess you cant tell) does the seal simply pop off and pop back on ?

 

[clint53]

hmm, so it sounds like it may be worth removing the flywheel again and replacing the crank seal ? I probably should have done that but it seems to have no play in it, nice and tight (but I guess you cant tell) does the seal simply pop off and pop back on ?

I'm not sure. I've never replaced one on my XL12's. Someone here will know.
GL

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Needle height correct?

 

[Canadian Cutter]

Needle height correct?

that I didnt check

 

[Canadian Cutter]

Thanks for all the help, makes sense the seal is leaking, just dawned on me she kicked and ran a bit BEFORE I pulled the flywheel and cleaned all the crud that was likely keeping the vacuum leak at bay, once I got it spotless, hello more air ......... I have a seal on order.

 

[Mad Professor]

I'd take another look at the points. Look for pitting and use contact cleaner not carb cleaner on them.

If they are pitted you can dress them with some emery paper but avoid that if the surfaces are pretty smooth. Point surfaces have a coating to extend life and sanding will remove that. You'll have to reset gap-timing. Look over the coil lead to the spark plug while in there for any cracks or defects.

I used to work on a lot of motorcycles back when they had points (some had 3 sets). The Snap-On man sold these strips called flex-stones, sort of a flexible plastic nail file that was available in several grits. We used those on points then cleaned with contact cleaner and ran a piece of paper through them a few times. Last few times I asked the younger Snap-On dealer about these , I got sheepish looks; He didn't have a clue what I was asking about. If you have older equipment with points I'd recommend flex-stones in several grits

Look over the switch that you repaired for any shorts with an ohm meter.

https://www.eis-inc.com/flexible-file/p-ph18-flexible file
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-PLAST

 

[clint53]

Thanks for all the help, makes sense the seal is leaking, just dawned on me she kicked and ran a bit BEFORE I pulled the flywheel and cleaned all the crud that was likely keeping the vacuum leak at bay, once I got it spotless, hello more air ......... I have a seal on order.

Yes that makes perfect sense of the before and after performance.
Keep us posted please.

 

[Canadian Cutter]

I'd take another look at the points. Look for pitting and use contact cleaner not carb cleaner on them.

If they are pitted you can dress them with some emery paper but avoid that if the surfaces are pretty smooth. Point surfaces have a coating to extend life and sanding will remove that. You'll have to reset gap-timing. Look over the coil lead to the spark plug while in there for any cracks or defects.

I used to work on a lot of motorcycles back when they had points (some had 3 sets). The Snap-On man sold these strips called flex-stones, sort of a flexible plastic nail file that was available in several grits. We used those on points then cleaned with contact cleaner and ran a piece of paper through them a few times. Last few times I asked the younger Snap-On dealer about these , I got sheepish looks; He didn't have a clue what I was asking about. If you have older equipment with points I'd recommend flex-stones in several grits

Look over the switch that you repaired for any shorts with an ohm meter.

https://www.eis-inc.com/flexible-file/p-ph18-flexible file
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-PLASTView attachment 866165

Hey guys, thanks for all the help, suggestions, I replaced the crank seal and she flashed up like a monster. !

 

[Canadian Cutter]

Hey guys, thanks for all the help / suggestions, I replaced the crank seal and she flashed up like a monster. !!