I was wondering if an electronic ignition module can be installed on a small Homelite XL using the points flywheel or will the flywheel need to be changed also?
Homelite XL ignition
- Thread starter a. palmer jr.
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Looks like I may have kinda answered my own question. After a thorough search of my garage I found both a points and electronic flywheel. They are about the same except the keyway in the points saw is about 8-10 degrees from the electronic keyway. I don't remember if it was advanced or not but I'm guessing either way it wouldn't run well. Problem now is I'm having trouble finding a module for the XL.
The reason I'm doing this is: I can't get my little XL to keep running and I don't know if it's the carburetor or the ignition. It starts easy on choke when cold but when you take the choke off it dies after a few seconds. I was thinking it was the carb but I've tried everything to it and it still does the same thing. The saw has points, which I've cleaned but am now wondering about the condenser being weak.
The reason I'm doing this is: I can't get my little XL to keep running and I don't know if it's the carburetor or the ignition. It starts easy on choke when cold but when you take the choke off it dies after a few seconds. I was thinking it was the carb but I've tried everything to it and it still does the same thing. The saw has points, which I've cleaned but am now wondering about the condenser being weak.
Likely advanced on the little Homey CDI flywheel, just like series 306 Poulans & 031 Stihls, but never compared them.
The 94711 ignition modules are found everywhere on fleabay, probably are Chinesium though.
If it passed the 8# pressure & -14” Hg vac tests, it’s got to be the HDC carb that has issues. Check valve may be stuck ****, have you tested it?
Cap testers are $20 on Amazon…delivered to your door.
The 94711 ignition modules are found everywhere on fleabay, probably are Chinesium though.
If it passed the 8# pressure & -14” Hg vac tests, it’s got to be the HDC carb that has issues. Check valve may be stuck ****, have you tested it?
Cap testers are $20 on Amazon…delivered to your door.
They have a different crankshaft too. Point crand and electronic cranks are totally different.-- at least on sxlao's!
I've checked the check valve, it doesn't work correctly. It's not stuck but lets air pressure in and out. I may try to make a valve for it since the new ones cost more than the saw is worth. Next time I tear it down I'll replace the fuel line and filter also. The round gasket in the HDC kinda has me confused as to which one to use. The HDC has both the H and L screws and the metering plate has one hole in it so something may be amiss. The saw has plenty of spark with the points ignition so I'm kinda reluctant to change it but I may change the condenser to the WIMA capacitor.
No, both the single L screw & dual L&H circuit plates have one hole, the single L’s CP is a milled orifice, prob stamped with the size. The dual CP just had a big hole punched, yours should be that one.
Carb number & photos of the carb internals & round gasket would help, but that nozzle check valve needs fixed or replaced first.
Did the pressure & vac test pass with no leaks on the engine?
Carb number & photos of the carb internals & round gasket would help, but that nozzle check valve needs fixed or replaced first.
Did the pressure & vac test pass with no leaks on the engine?
Yeah, the press/vac is okay on this one. On the last one, rather than find the leak I just replaced the engine. I know a sure fire way to find out what's wrong: I have a good running XL that I can take apart and swap carburetors but I just hate to tear another one down. I'm hoping to go to the flea market soon, they always have old chainsaw stuff there.
The last one I had that runs like this one I just changed the round metering plate gasket with the proper one and it ran okay. I changed this one and it runs like it did. I'll try to make a few of those valves and see if I can get one of these carbs to work..
The last one I had that runs like this one I just changed the round metering plate gasket with the proper one and it ran okay. I changed this one and it runs like it did. I'll try to make a few of those valves and see if I can get one of these carbs to work..
Ok then. Good luck with the repair.
Thanks, it's requiring a little guesswork on this one. Maybe I'll get the right combination.
Could be that it's not a major fuel or ignition issue but an exhaust blockage instead. Check the muffler and especially the exhaust screen. That muffler's exhaust screen might be blocked with grime as solid as a rock. I have run into this several times with Homelites, especially the XL.
I'm not sure mine has a screen, only those thin slots but I do think I'll take a screwdriver to them, maybe open them up a bit. I guess I can try it first with the muffler removed. Thanks.
I believe the screen goes all the way across the muffler. It did on the one I just worked on. I also opened up the little slots with a screwdriver. Between that and the carb's air filter that was a piece of jumk, I really do not see how the saw even ran.
Now that you mention it I think mine does have a screen in the middle of the muffler. You have to separate the muffler to see it. I'll just remove it and see how it does. I also worked on a carburetor for it in case it needs one. I also made a few of those check valves, cutting them out with a .22 rifle spent shell. It works okay but I could only make 1 or 2 before the shell dulled on the edge.
Here's a snip:
The machine screw was loose and the screen was blocked in the one I worked on. The ports were also closed up with crud. It's the only chainsaw muffler I have ever worked on that was secured to the cylinder by one single bolt. Somehow it holds it.
The machine screw was loose and the screen was blocked in the one I worked on. The ports were also closed up with crud. It's the only chainsaw muffler I have ever worked on that was secured to the cylinder by one single bolt. Somehow it holds it.
Yeah, that's similar to mine but yours is a newer version, having the guard on the outside. Since these kind of saws don't get used in the forest why not just leave the screen out? I'll go out right now and see what condition mine is in.
Okay, back from the 90 some degree shop, my XL did not have a screen in the muffler, guess it had already been removed. I went ahead and opened up the slots anyway. I tried to start it and it did the same thing, popped some on choke, moved lever to middle and it ran just a second or two then it died and wouldn't start again. I checked and it had a great spark so I'm guessing it somewhere in the fuel system. I loosened the fuel cap so it's not in the vent.
Likely a bad carb and all clogged up by a bad air filter falling apart. New carbs are still available or you can try a rebuild. I usually just get a new carb.
BTW, that guard on the outside is a flimsy sheet metal structure. Yours may have been knocked off when the "mechanic" also threw away the clogged spark screen.
p.s. I hate working in shops that hot. Add humidity and they are unbearable.
I've got another carb which has good gaskets in it and has been cleaned but not sure if it'll work either. Seems like I had this one on it before. This next teardown I'll probably install a new fuel line and filter even though the other one looks okay. The air filter on it is new.
I've looked and haven't found a new carburetor for this saw, of course I haven't looked at many places. I don't think the guard has been knocked off my muffler, I think it is an older version that didn't have them yet. It's a points saw so it's probably one of the older ones.
I went out today and took the XL all apart, removing the carburetor and replacing it with the L only carb. After putting it back together it will run as usual on choke, just for a second or two, then when putting it in the run position it dies. I had the L setting at 1 1/2 turns out and have tried other settings but the saw basically does the same thing. I imagine I'll go out tomorrow and it will start on choke but won't run or idle. Sounds like a dirty carb to me but I hate to soak these for any length of time because of that check valve which seems to work on this carb.
I was looking around in my spare parts and came up with a Tillotson HK27A carburetor made for an XL2 which would most likely work on my XL if it's any good. I took it apart and it had a bunch of rust on the metal cover of the diaphragm on both sides and the inlet screen was full of trash but I will say that it cleaned up pretty good. I'll go to the mower shop and see if he has a kit for this one and maybe try it on my saw. BTW the Tillotson is a bit smaller diameter on the air inlet, venturi area so it'll probably not be as powerful as with the bigger carb but right now I'm just trying to get the thing to run! I'm also working on building another Walbro carb if I can get the right parts..
