hot saw, narrow kerf

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rmihalek

Where's the wood at?
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I'm new to the group so forgive me if this has been discussed: has anyone tried running the narrow kerf chain on a modified saw? Seems like there'd be an advantage there as long as the chain can handle the horsepower.
 
Most of the saw racers use heavily modified chain...it has had much of the cutters remove, nearly to the back of the cutter. Since most chain tapers to the back, the kerf gets narrower as you gp back. As well, some like to remove a bit from the side of the cutter to narrow the cutter even more, so there is even more of an effect. Finally, chain in the sharp pointy square tooth chisel form is the preferred type.

I don't think there is any full chisel narrow-kerf out there. Interesting thought, though...I've got a little Jonsered with a 20" bar and narrow-kerf .325...little 50cc saw should be pretty overtaxed at 20", but with the 95vp chain, it isn't so bad. I admit I'm only comfortable with a 16" bar on it, though.
 
i would use 95 vp on my 026.. but a square sharpened chisel is faster.
do use it on an 295 poulan pro.
its real fast.
 
It is amazing to see how well 95vp chain cuts, has anyone ever tested it againced 20lp same bar, same power head? No doubt 95vp is fast cutting and durable, I believe it was made for the 300 series Husky chainsaws.
I have tried 20lp on a race saw, it cut well but didn't seem to clear the cut on a 28" bar ( didn,t remove enough chip ), but could work on a smaller bar ( more teeth per foot ). Jon
 
Hi Scott,

I`ve never tried the RS against LP in .325 but I can see where the RS could be quicker without the ramped depth gauge, I just don`t see why RS can be square filed and LP can`t?

Russ
 

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