How I Fix A Rusty Chainsaw Chain

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I feel like this is a much stronger argument than "it's too much work to fix 'em".

I lost a chain one time, and I was trying to cut an embedded railroad spike in half at the time, so I can't really blame the chain for that. But it did make me reflect on some things (I never used one of the old saws without a chain catcher again, in fact).
I get saws in all the time with missing/sheared chain catchers. I tell the customer they must replace, or I won't work on the unit. It's the same way with broken chain brakes. I don't want to be associated to the potential liability.
 
What will remove polymerized Stihl bio-bar oil? I tried about everything and you still need pliers to get the links to move.
I 'Googled' "remove polymerized vegetable oil" and one post recommended 'caustic soda', which is lye / sodium hydroxide. This is what I use to generally clean chains, in a commercial, water-based degreaser, such as 'Super Clean', or some ZEP degreasers (read the label for sodium hydroxide).

Philbert
 
I say "it's junk, not worth my time".

Lot of loggers where I grew up don't bother to sharpen chains. Once it's done, it's tossed.
Cheaper to put a new one than spend the time sharpening.
BRAVO! Ive all but said this same thing before in other threads myself. If you've got men on the clock sometimes its cheaper to not fool with stopping production to sharpen a chain. On my felling saw, if it gets the least bit dull, I just put on a new chain rather than stopping to sharpen it. The only exception to that is if its the end of the day and Ive got time to do it.
Now I don't throw them away, they get handed down to yard duty. Even on the yard though if its dulled BAD it gets trashed and replaced. Time is money and 12 bucks for a chain is not even a factor at the end of the day.
 
If you've got men on the clock sometimes its cheaper to not fool with stopping production to sharpen a chain.
Lots of different situations and perspectives. I have spoken with other professional tree cutters who do not sharpen chains in the field. Some guys collect them, and sharpen back at the shop on a rainy day, or take them somewhere to be sharpened. Some guys offer them ‘once used, never sharpened’ on CL, eBay, etc. Some guys just ‘expense’ them as part of the job.

It can be a ‘win-win’ situation for someone who knows how to sharpen chains, to connect with one of those guys.

Philbert
 
Lots of different situations and perspectives. I have spoken with other professional tree cutters who do not sharpen chains in the field. Some guys collect them, and sharpen back at the shop on a rainy day, or take them somewhere. Some guys offer them ‘once used, never sharpened’ on CL, eBay, etc. Some guys just ‘expense’ them as part of the job.

It can be a ‘win-win’ situation for someone who knows how to sharpen chains, to connect with one of those guys.

Philbert

Huh, I just cruised ebay based on what you said, and it looks like I may never have to pay more than $5 or $10 for a chain again. Thanks!

Not that every listing is a good deal... and a majority of them have pictures that are bad enough that you can't tell!


Screenshot_20210325-175948_Firefox Nightly.jpg
 
Huh, I just cruised ebay based on what you said, and it looks like I may never have to pay more than $5 or $10 for a chain again. Thanks!

Not that every listing is a good deal... and a majority of them have pictures that are bad enough that you can't tell!


View attachment 897129
LOL I can tell those are FUBAR! Stay away!
 
Used to have an in like that for the little stihl pico chains, just sold off the ones that I couldnt use, still have enough to last a life time as i dont climb often, and the pole saw doesnt get used too much either.
 
I dont get where it saves money to throw the chain away when its dull.Takes 10 minutes to sharpen the chain and it takes 15 minutes to clean out the crud and change the chain.When its 40 below and 3 feet of snow and you have to remove your mitts to unscrew the nuts your hands are frozen quick you drop a nut in the snow never to be found you curse and then drop the next one now your f........d.You can sharpen very well with mitts on.
kash
 
I dont get where it saves money to throw the chain away when its dull.Takes 10 minutes to sharpen the chain and it takes 15 minutes to clean out the crud and change the chain.When its 40 below and 3 feet of snow and you have to remove your mitts to unscrew the nuts your hands are frozen quick you drop a nut in the snow never to be found you curse and then drop the next one now your f........d.You can sharpen very well with mitts on.
kash
Harvester chain
 
I dont get where it saves money to throw the chain away when its dull.Takes 10 minutes to sharpen the chain and it takes 15 minutes to clean out the crud and change the chain.When its 40 below and 3 feet of snow and you have to remove your mitts to unscrew the nuts your hands are frozen quick you drop a nut in the snow never to be found you curse and then drop the next one now your f........d.You can sharpen very well with mitts on.
kash
15 minutes is a long time to swap a chain.

10 minutes is fast to sharpen a chain, especially, if that includes set up, etc.

-40* F is an extreme condition.

‘Sharpen’ means a few passes with a sharp file for some; fixing a badly rocked chain to others.

One guy told me that he just did not like to sharpen chains.

Philbert
 
I dont get where it saves money to throw the chain away when its dull.Takes 10 minutes to sharpen the chain and it takes 15 minutes to clean out the crud and change the chain.When its 40 below and 3 feet of snow and you have to remove your mitts to unscrew the nuts your hands are frozen quick you drop a nut in the snow never to be found you curse and then drop the next one now your f........d.You can sharpen very well with mitts on.
kash
I throw the whole saw away when it gets dull.
 
15 minutes is a long time to swap a chain.



Philbert

But you neglected to also include the "clean the crud out" bit.
I would consider 15 minutes quite reasonable to remove the clutch cover, clean the inside of it, degunge the brake band, decrud the oil gallery, clear the bar rails AND swap the chain- then reassemble.
Mark of a good sawyer that takes a minute or two to clean out as well as swap dull for sharp. ;)
 
degunge the brake band, decrud the oil gallery,

I like "Oil Gallery", makes me want to start packing a monocle and a top hat for my cutting expeditions. :surprised3: "I say, good sir, there appears to somehow be a bit of crud in your oil gallery!"

What do you do for the brake band? I've always avoided sticking screnches into that gap, on the theory that I'd end up compacting crud into that space.
 

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