How much oil on the bar is enough

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

scalo

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
Messages
104
Reaction score
8
Location
Southern New Hampshire
First off, long time lurker, first time poster, my question is how do I tell if I am getting enough oil on the bar. If I hold the tip of the saw up to a piece of wood I see oil being sprayed on the wood, yet the chain looks dry after I stop. The oil reservoir never empties before the gas tank and probably has 1/4 or less oil left in it. I am using a husky 350 and I only use it to cut up my firewood mainly red oak.
Thanks
Scott
 
First off, long time lurker, first time poster, my question is how do I tell if I am getting enough oil on the bar. If I hold the tip of the saw up to a piece of wood I see oil being sprayed on the wood, yet the chain looks dry after I stop. The oil reservoir never empties before the gas tank and probably has 1/4 or less oil left in it. I am using a husky 350 and I only use it to cut up my firewood mainly red oak.
Thanks
Scott

Sounds like you're good to go, and I don't think the 350 has an adjuster anyway, at least I've never adjusted mine, nor looked for that screw. Some people like to see lots and lots of oil. When we were building my cabin the guy who cut the windows out used used engine oil for bar oil, and it was almost impossible to get that stuff off the logs, and he painted 'em with it. If you see oil coming off the end of the bar you should be fine, JIMO.
 
Agreed. From everything I've ever seen, read, or experienced, you are right where you want to be.
 
Sounds like you're good to go, and I don't think the 350 has an adjuster anyway, at least I've never adjusted mine, nor looked for that screw. Some people like to see lots and lots of oil. When we were building my cabin the guy who cut the windows out used used engine oil for bar oil, and it was almost impossible to get that stuff off the logs, and he painted 'em with it. If you see oil coming off the end of the bar you should be fine, JIMO.

Actually, it has adjustable oiler, look on the bottom of saw, near clutch, theres a brass screw which you can use to adjust it...
 
Thank you for your input, I have learned a lot from this site after reading all the interesting posts. The main thing that I have learned is not to ask what kind of saw to buy ;).
 
Thank you for your input, I have learned a lot from this site after reading all the interesting posts. The main thing that I have learned is to ask what kind of saw to buy ;).



Welcome to AS scalo:rock:

The 350 is a great saw, and the oiler is adjustable, I run mine wide open all the time, bar oil is cheap compared to bars and chains, JMHO!

As for the last question, cutting redoak, I think you need at least a ms660, maybe an 880/3120. Never can have too much saw for that hardwood!!
 
Actually, it has adjustable oiler, look on the bottom of saw, near clutch, theres a brass screw which you can use to adjust it...

Thanks. I never had any reason to adjust it, just assumed it was non-adjustable. I stand corrected.
 
I think I will stick with the 350 for now, if there is anything that I would change it is the way I sharpen the chains. I can not keep an edge on them after cutting oak and I have never had a real lesson in sharpening. I use the guide from husqvarna and get a good cut for the first few cuts then it feels like the chain is just sliding across the wood. I go from good chunks to sawdust pretty fast. any suggestions??
 
I think I will stick with the 350 for now, if there is anything that I would change it is the way I sharpen the chains. I can not keep an edge on them after cutting oak and I have never had a real lesson in sharpening. I use the guide from husqvarna and get a good cut for the first few cuts then it feels like the chain is just sliding across the wood. I go from good chunks to sawdust pretty fast. any suggestions??

Take a few close-ups and post them and AS members can probably tell ya what the problem is. Hook, backslope, angles screwed up, whatever. One of the best discussions I've personally read is the following:

http://www.sawchain.com/images/complete book.pdf
 
I think I will stick with the 350 for now, if there is anything that I would change it is the way I sharpen the chains. I can not keep an edge on them after cutting oak and I have never had a real lesson in sharpening. I use the guide from husqvarna and get a good cut for the first few cuts then it feels like the chain is just sliding across the wood. I go from good chunks to sawdust pretty fast. any suggestions??
You are checking and adjusting the depth gauges?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top