How to remove these shrubs completely from near my foundation ( Pics attached)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Asker123

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 6, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
3
Location
Canada
Hi there,
I have these shrubs on 3 corners of my house. Those have created the landscaping and grading issues. They accumulate snow in the winter and when it rains the water does not flow correctly away from house. They need to go completely. Period.
When I talked to some neighbours and also an arborist, they have different valid opinions. One is cut these to the waist length and put chains around those and pull those using truck that will take the roots away. I do not like this idea much. One - the truck will need to go on grass and will create tire marks etc. Second, I do not like roots to be dug, that can damage my foundation etc. Another idea was to cut those as close to ground as possible. As the soil is already low there, we can then cover the outside part with more sand on top. The arborist told to cover them using tarp after cutting to that they don't grow again. I like this idea. My problem is I am not able to cut these using a small 10 inch chainsaw that I got. When I put the chain saw against these small trees( if I can call them that) , the thing just vibrates and the both the plan and the chainsaw shakes and doesn't cut anything.

Can you guys please suggest what is best way to cut these things as close to ground as possible
Thanks in advance
IMG_20220813_123639848.jpgIMG_20220813_123622793_HDR.jpgIMG_20220813_123609534_HDR.jpgIMG_20220813_123602158_HDR.jpgIMG_20220813_123550094_HDR.jpgIMG_20220813_123524432.jpg
 
Your looking for a cheap and easy fix, reality is pick one or the other. I'd drag them out roots and all then bring in topsoil to fix your footer issues and cover your work damages then re sod ...since your already having soil management issues this seems the most logical way unless you have pipes or electrical buried. If you think your going to damage the foundation pulling the roots what do you expect to happen as they rot or regrow..
 
Lilacs will regrow if you cut them low. It will be difficult to get a choker to hold on those clumps for a pull.
Cut them low and grind out the stumps, you still may have to address root suckers.
Herbicide them, let them die out completely. Cut and cover dead stumps with soil.
 
I had Multi Floral Rose bushes in a lot and sprayed them with a woody herbicide like CrossRoads. Once dead I used a pole saw because those plant will rid your arm to pieces. I got rid of the top growth and then used a pick to loosen up the roots. Lot of work but got them out.
A battery powered sawzall with pruning blade works great.
 
Any 10 inch bar on a chainsaw that runs should cut those easily.

Your chain must be very dull.

Be careful with that saw because a trip to the ER will totally kill any DIY savings.

This is true. A sharp chain on the cheapest chainsaw still cuts pretty effectively. Have it professionally sharpened, and then make SURE that you never touch the dirt with the saw chain ever again. Not even for a moment.
.
Also, I think you are overlooking some much easier solutions. You needn't worry about a concrete foundation while yanking shrubs out with a chain. That being said, most folks don't use a good technique, they tear up the yard and damage their vehicle. I consider yanking bushes to be the best and quickest method to make the soil usable for replanting other shrubs.

Stump grinding is pretty good about making the plant die, and leaving a smooth surface to place sod upon. It costs more and doesn't generally remove all the roots if you are planting more landscape plants.

Overlooked for the do-it-yourself type: A mildly sharp mattock usually has no trouble taking out small stumps.
1660448618111.pngAnd they last forever, and require no maintenance.


My preferred method to rip out bushes is with a mini-excavator. Fast and easy, and they can take out anything from the biggest bush to the smallest, and they go more places than a truck can to chain-pull the plants. You are, however, more likely to dig up underground services if you are careless and don't pay attention to where they come in the building.

If you are just going to bury the stumps? Cut 'em off and bury them. If anything comes up through the sod, either keep cutting it off below grade, or treat it with some triclopyr, a common and safe yard herbicide. Treat the stumps before you bury them for MUCH more reliable results.
 
It occurs to me that if you just got the saw to accommodate the bush removal, you might have the chain on backwards. The sharp side goes to the front of any chain travel. It's a common mistake; I put one on backwards this morning, and I've been using chainsaws for over 35 years.

Of course, I didn't quite get it assembled before I saw my mistake. Newbies often don't realize that problem at all. We used to get an occasional saw come in to my shop with a backwards chain and the complaint that "It just doesn't cut anything at all". So make SURE it is rotating around the bar in the sharp to the front configuration.
 
Your looking for a cheap and easy fix, reality is pick one or the other. I'd drag them out roots and all then bring in topsoil to fix your footer issues and cover your work damages then re sod ...since your already having soil management issues this seems the most logical way unless you have pipes or electrical buried. If you think your going to damage the foundation pulling the roots what do you expect to happen as they rot or regrow..
Yup…however, watch out for hidden water …or gas…lines.
DAMHIKT
 
Lilac bushes get rather solid at the base. Cutting a whole row out with a sawzall would be formidably more difficult than zipping through with even the cheapest electric chainsaw. The only thing to be said for a sawzall is that the blades tolerate a whole lot more dirt and metal before they get dull.

Your average sawzall won't even make a very good flush cut with the ground, as the saw blade is located in the middle of the saw, rather than perched on one side, as chainsaws are.
 
I got a stump bucket with grapple put it on the skid steer turned on the a/c and tore them out( holly bushes with thorns) no sweat. used the grapple to pick them up and put them in the woods under heavy shade so they would not sprout up, no thorns puncturing gloves into hand either.
 
Did you put the saw against the bush and then pull the trigger? You have to have the saw at wide open throttle before you touch the bush. As stated by others, spray with a brush killer, wait the proper amount of time and cut them off. The leaves will have dropped and they will be easier to deal with. Or cut them off live and spray the little stumps with full strength Tordon, Roundup, etc, wait for the chemical to work and then do your backfill, landscape. Talk to your local green house, garden center. Instructions on most of these chemicals leave a bit to be desired.
 
I echo the comments advocating for spraying then with herbicide when they are actively growing, waiting a few weeks, then cutting down and removing the stumps with a mattock. They are very effective.
 
Find someone with a winch. We have one on our chipper and works perfect to remove shrubs. In some cases might have to ax a few roots to get the shrub completely out. No going on the lawn. We do it from the street. If in the back yard mount a pulley to a tree.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top