How to tie a rope bridge

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bruce6670

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I'm trying to tie a piece of 1/2" safety blue as my rope bridge on my new Cougar saddle.What would be the be the best set up?:confused:
 
I just put a new piece of climbing line on my cougar as the rope bridge, used the ol' double fisherman's knot. Leave a good 1 1/4" of tail past the knot, then sit in it a few times to set everything nice a tight. Tape the tails and trim to desired length, singe the ends with a propane torch, just watch the center part of the bridge... I really wouldn't go much shorter than that though, it should all look pretty neat when said and done.
 
I just put a new piece of climbing line on my cougar as the rope bridge, used the ol' double fisherman's knot. Leave a good 1 1/4" of tail past the knot, then sit in it a few times to set everything nice a tight. Tape the tails and trim to desired length, singe the ends with a propane torch, just watch the center part of the bridge... I really wouldn't go much shorter than that though, it should all look pretty neat when said and done.

Did the knot interfere with the biners when they are to one side?

How about the tail?

I was thinking of sliding on a piece of webbing sling or something similar to neaten it up and for abrasion resistance.
 
The knot interferes with the beaners for sure, it usually rides over the tail though... the beauty of making your own bridge though, is that you can make it a little bit longer than the factory... I really like the way mine feels now, It seems like I have a larger range of movement now, and the extra length in the bridge forces everything to follow a sharper angle and controls roll a little bit better.
 
The knot interferes with the beaners for sure, it usually rides over the tail though... the beauty of making your own bridge though, is that you can make it a little bit longer than the factory... I really like the way mine feels now, It seems like I have a larger range of movement now, and the extra length in the bridge forces everything to follow a sharper angle and controls roll a little bit better.

The first thing I thought when I tried it today was that the bridge was too short.
I think I'll try it like it is for now but still tie on another just because it looks so cheap.
Thanks for the reply.
 
I considered using the Double Overhand Stopper Knot.

I think other saddles use this but I'm not sure if it is safe when used with rings this size.
 
I think the knots would be in the way too much, myself. Given where the rings are in the saddle.

Don't forget there is an adjustment that affects the working "length" of the bridge on the cougar. I know there is more to it than that, but it does make a difference.
 
I think the knots would be in the way too much, myself. Given where the rings are in the saddle.

Don't forget there is an adjustment that affects the working "length" of the bridge on the cougar. I know there is more to it than that, but it does make a difference.



I was thinking the same thing.I'll try to make some adjustments.
 
Yep. I am resolved to using either Scaffold Hitch or Double Overhand Knot. I prefer DOK, 'cause it is easiest to type.

It seems like the DOK would be a little neater.It just doesn't look as secure.
I don't think it can pull through the ring but I'm still nervous.
 
I think you may have misunderstood me. Scaffold hitch IS a double overhand knot. I suppose more correctly, that would be a DOK on a bight?


What do I know, those knot guys have their own guild!

A double overhand knot would be a stopper knot. A double overhand on a bight would be a self tightening hitch. I prefer the term double fishermans loop for the hitch but then Treespyder will be along shortly to put us all in our places.:cheers:
 
I've been obsessing over that rope bridge thing too on my Cougar, it doesn't give me that warm fuzzy feeling to say the least. But really I'm being irrational, considering that it only ever sees half my body weight and is probably rater for over 5,000 pounds.
 
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