Huskee Log Splitter replacement engine

[Fruitfarmer3428]

Was checking out threads on this subject. I was moving my splitter with a loader when it spilled out and caused significant damage to the OEM engine, enough so that I thought repairs might exceed what a replacement engine would be. There were several recommendations for the Predator 212 engine, and I certainly considered that, but the crank rotation was opposite the B&S 6.5 series engine and a horizontal shaft as well. This might have required a different pump, and I was more interested it keeping it as original as possible. I settled on the Predator 173cc 6.5 hp engine, which was a bit more expensive, $119 as opposed to the 212 cc engine at $99. Of course bolt patterns didn't line up, but the shaft size was the same as the B&S, so the coupler worked as well.
Someone reported the shaft was a bit longer, and they chose to grind some length off. I elected to shim with engine mounts with washers. I mounted the engine 90 degrees from the original mount, as it gave me better acces to the air cleaner and the exhaust was then located away from the splitter operator. The pull start is perpendicular to the splitter cylinder, not an issue. It took some doing to locate the new mounting holes, I ended up positioning the engine, using a paint can spraying the mounting base with a shot down the mounting holes and it worked. A couple of things you'll have to deal with if you go this route. This is a mower engine, as was the B&S, it is a bit smaller at 173cc that the B&S at 190cc, but I believe it a more powerful engine and OHV as well. It is set up for a mower speed control cable, not a lever. I fabricated a piece of coat hanger, ran it through a small diameter plastic gas line and crimped it with the cable clamp sufficiently that it holds the throttle in position. The second issue is that the engine is killed with an engine brake, a safety feature on a mower, this has to be deactivated prior to starting. I took a heavier gauge wire drew it through the normal brake cable mount and bent it to prevent the brake from killing the engine. I was hoping that simply returning the throttle to idle would kill the engine, it doesn't, the brake is the kill switch so I put a second bend in the wire, and a loop in the end which allows me to release and engage the brake. I may refine it later, but for now it is working.
I want to run the engine for a bit, prior to getting back to splitting, so far it seems to start at least as well as the B&S, but I have no reason to believe it won't work satisfactorily.
Even if it doesn't I'm not out that much.
There is no other substitute engine that I am aware of is a perfect match, and if there is, it's likely at least 2X the cost. Hope this helps anyone else who is in the same situation.




s

 

[ArtB]

re:
Hope this helps anyone else who is in the same situation.

When moving equipment with a loader, be sure a chain is involved to secure the equipment ?

 

[Fruitfarmer3428]

Was checking out threads on this subject. I was moving my splitter with a loader when it spilled out and caused significant damage to the OEM engine, enough so that I thought repairs might exceed what a replacement engine would be. There were several recommendations for the Predator 212 engine, and I certainly considered that, but the crank rotation was opposite the B&S 6.5 series engine and a horizontal shaft as well. This might have required a different pump, and I was more interested it keeping it as original as possible. I settled on the Predator 173cc 6.5 hp engine, which was a bit more expensive, $119 as opposed to the 212 cc engine at $99. Of course bolt patterns didn't line up, but the shaft size was the same as the B&S, so the coupler worked as well.
Someone reported the shaft was a bit longer, and they chose to grind some length off. I elected to shim with engine mounts with washers. I mounted the engine 90 degrees from the original mount, as it gave me better acces to the air cleaner and the exhaust was then located away from the splitter operator. The pull start is perpendicular to the splitter cylinder, not an issue. It took some doing to locate the new mounting holes, I ended up positioning the engine, using a paint can spraying the mounting base with a shot down the mounting holes and it worked. A couple of things you'll have to deal with if you go this route. This is a mower engine, as was the B&S, it is a bit smaller at 173cc that the B&S at 190cc, but I believe it a more powerful engine and OHV as well. It is set up for a mower speed control cable, not a lever. I fabricated a piece of coat hanger, ran it through a small diameter plastic gas line and crimped it with the cable clamp sufficiently that it holds the throttle in position. The second issue is that the engine is killed with an engine brake, a safety feature on a mower, this has to be deactivated prior to starting. I took a heavier gauge wire drew it through the normal brake cable mount and bent it to prevent the brake from killing the engine. I was hoping that simply returning the throttle to idle would kill the engine, it doesn't, the brake is the kill switch so I put a second bend in the wire, and a loop in the end which allows me to release and engage the brake. I may refine it later, but for now it is working.
I want to run the engine for a bit, prior to getting back to splitting, so far it seems to start at least as well as the B&S, but I have no reason to believe it won't work satisfactorily.
Even if it doesn't I'm not out that much.
There is no other substitute engine that I am aware of is a perfect match, and if there is, it's likely at least 2X the cost. Hope this helps anyone else who is in the same situation.




s

Update on the engine replacement. At this time I can report, that using this engine is not going to be a satisfactory result. I ended up having to fabricate a mounting plate, the crankshaft was not the same length as the B&S 6.5 that was OEM, so it required some spacing shims as well. The thing has been kicking back irregularly, when attempting to start, someone referenced that it kicked like a Missouri Mule, that was appropriate, literally rips the cord out of your hands. Being that the recoil assembly is plastic and is now broken, and Harbor Freight doesn't offer that part. I was able to find one on V power.com, $19 less shipping. I have checked the valve timing, and reset, possibly better, and pulling the blower shroud, and flywheel nut, appears that the key is in place and intact. Guy at V power, seems knowledgeable on the engine, and suggests that this is a mower engine, with an aluminum flywheel, the mower blade may have added enough momentum that prevents it from kicking back, where the B&S engines flywheel was cast and heavier so maybe didn't need that. The hydraulic pump really wouldn't provide much momentum/inertia. Guess that is possible. It is cold here this time of year, and the engine will start, but quits quickly unless I can get to the primer bulb and keep pumping fuel to the carb. requires several attempts to keep it running.
By the way, the engine brake on this motor includes a grounding wire for the coil, the engine brake itself could be taken off, and spring disconnected and remainder used as a kill switch.
My recommendation is if you have to replace the orig. engine, save yourself a lot of grief and find one more comparable, it will cost you less in terms of time an aggravation, even if you have to go with a horizontal shaft engine and relocate the hydraulic pump.

 

[Wow]

Update on the engine replacement. At this time I can report, that using this engine is not going to be a satisfactory result. I ended up having to fabricate a mounting plate, the crankshaft was not the same length as the B&S 6.5 that was OEM, so it required some spacing shims as well. The thing has been kicking back irregularly, when attempting to start, someone referenced that it kicked like a Missouri Mule, that was appropriate, literally rips the cord out of your hands. Being that the recoil assembly is plastic and is now broken, and Harbor Freight doesn't offer that part. I was able to find one on V power.com, $19 less shipping. I have checked the valve timing, and reset, possibly better, and pulling the blower shroud, and flywheel nut, appears that the key is in place and intact. Guy at V power, seems knowledgeable on the engine, and suggests that this is a mower engine, with an aluminum flywheel, the mower blade may have added enough momentum that prevents it from kicking back, where the B&S engines flywheel was cast and heavier so maybe didn't need that. The hydraulic pump really wouldn't provide much momentum/inertia. Guess that is possible. It is cold here this time of year, and the engine will start, but quits quickly unless I can get to the primer bulb and keep pumping fuel to the carb. requires several attempts to keep it running.
By the way, the engine brake on this motor includes a grounding wire for the coil, the engine brake itself could be taken off, and spring disconnected and remainder used as a kill switch.
My recommendation is if you have to replace the orig. engine, save yourself a lot of grief and find one more comparable, it will cost you less in terms of time an aggravation, even if you have to go with a horizontal shaft engine and relocate the hydraulic pump.

Mower engines DO use the weight of a blade as a part of the flywheel. BUT, what I've done in the past is to ADD as big a Pully to the Shaft ABOVE the pump connections that you can fit in the space. Mic the shaft for size and go buy a pulley that fits the shaft. Slide it up on the shaft out of the way of the pump connections. Remove the set screws on the pulley 1 at a time. Use a thread lock then replace and snug down each set screw. I use Rubber Cement, yes the cheap stuff used to repair rubber tires and tubes. If your pulley doesn't stop the engine kick back remove and drill holes equally spaced to keep everything balanced and add bolts and nuts for weight. IF, BY CHANGE, it needs more weight bolt something heavier to the pulley. Use nylon locking nuts so you don't get killed if something comes loose. Create a shield of metal to catch loose parts and KEEP body parts away from those spinning parts. IF YOU Do this YOU DO AT YOUR OWN WRISK, I will not take responsibility for your actions, accidents nor losses. Another thing I've done in the past is simply change flywheels. Get something that fits AND the half moon key IS part of the timing. Lots of things can work. In 1978 I installed a Ford Pinto engine in a Volkswagen Bus. Be safe, don't get hurt and DON'T BLAME ME if you do.

 

[Wow]

Here (if they will let me post a URL) is information about a cast iron pulley added to a lawnmower engine to replace the blade and assist the light flywheel. Read all of it and you will get a lot of information. If the URL doesn't work. Google lawn mower engine used to build a generator. Good luck.

https://theepicenter.com/blog/generator-lawn-mower-vertical/

 

[Jetblack3]

I replaced engine on 20 ton huskee few years back. It had a Tecumseh 5hp that lasted longer than any Tecumseh I've ever been associated with but in the end it did die. Replaced with a Briggs 190cc and it was a direct bolt up replacement with no modifications needed. Suspect this motor could use a counter balancer as it does kick back once in awhile when starting.

 

[Wow]

I replaced engine on 20 ton huskee few years back. It had a Tecumseh 5hp that lasted longer than any Tecumseh I've ever been associated with but in the end it did die. Replaced with a Briggs 190cc and it was a direct bolt up replacement with no modifications needed. Suspect this motor could use a counter balancer as it does kick back once in awhile when starting.

I went on line and found wholesale engines. Can't remember exactly where or who but they had a direct bolt on. I'm thinking mine has 3 bolts. Rather than rig something up it's easy to find a direct fit.