Husky 2100 destruction - single occasion!

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Dang, thats too bad. My 2100's will spin some R's, they are race saws only but they seem to handle it well. The bottom end of a 2100 is not usually a weak spot and most any saw would shred a crank bearing before it would snap a rod, my guess is it had a defection in the rod that took 30 years to break.

By the way, What do you want for the left-overs, you probably know as well as I that parts are getting hard to find. (Oh, never mind, I just saw your on the other side of the drink)
 
Hi guys, How much damage can you do to chainsaw on a single occasion?
It was complete overhaul with 185 PSI compression cranking 15,000 RPM.
I checked all the bearings and they are still fine and smooth. What was the cause of this damage? Did any body experienced something like this before?
Thanks in advance for explanation.:cry:


What was the cause of this damage? 15,000 RPM. 185 PSI compression. ( I see no sign of a cylinder gasket) My experience with engines that put a rod thru the crankcase, is they have been over-reved. I also believe from what you have told us, this saw was an accident waiting to happen. JMHO :sucks:


Here's one on Ebay-Item number: 160088333077 This guy is an honest good seller. He has a BIN price of $375.00 Hope this is of some help!
 
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I think PEST had the best aswer for me so far, but thak you to all of you.
Saw was moded by me and it was the first one I've play with. Turning down cylinder .025" to get .025" piston TDC clearance with use of OEM stock gasket. Intake port was moved or opened additional .025" lower and exhaust opened upwards .050"(because with lowering cylinder exhaust dropped automatically .025"). This took care of the compression. Speed was taking care of by blocking high limit in the carburetor. When I was done I've send the saw to one of the racing saw builder on this site to check and adjust my timing. He also installed D-handle on it. I went through about 5 full fuel tanks and saw was running excellent.
PEST, I had lighter, thin ring piston ready for it and I'm glad I didn't have chance to install it. Now, let me know what I did wrong, if not everything I did to it? Thanks again.
 
You only did one thing wrong

You loaned it out to someone without being with him when he ran it. We all learn the hard way.
You ran it by feel and knew the limits...someone who has not run lots of saws has no feel for it.

From the looks of the remains you had a good thing going but removed any safety protection for the saw. It seems you did not detune the top end before you loaned it and I have had similar situations with some of my saws.
("It was cuttin like I never seen a saw cut right before it seized up tight. Whaddayah mean I had to richen up the hi needle when it got to 28 below last night? It was cuttin GREAT")
 
I think PEST had the best aswer for me so far, but thak you to all of you.
Saw was moded by me and it was the first one I've play with. Turning down cylinder .025" to get .025" piston TDC clearance with use of OEM stock gasket. Intake port was moved or opened additional .025" lower and exhaust opened upwards .050"(because with lowering cylinder exhaust dropped automatically .025"). This took care of the compression. Speed was taking care of by blocking high limit in the carburetor. When I was done I've send the saw to one of the racing saw builder on this site to check and adjust my timing. He also installed D-handle on it. I went through about 5 full fuel tanks and saw was running excellent.
PEST, I had lighter, thin ring piston ready for it and I'm glad I didn't have chance to install it. Now, let me know what I did wrong, if not everything I did to it? Thanks again.

In high school I had a friend that had a 1968 ss chevelle with a highly modified square port big block 427 an d M-22 4 speed tranny.mid 12 sec in a quarter mile when his dad ran it. I had a 67 buick skylark with a 340 STOCK v-8 and powerglide tranny. I asked him one day " Hey can I borrow you're car to run down the street. His reply... ARE YOU F&@KIN" NUTS?? :greenchainsaw: That's what you did wrong my friend, but not to worry because I run a foster home for troubled saws and I have already cleared it with CPS (Chainsaw Protective services) and my resume is on the way:) :)
 
After reading all this it sounds like you did some nice work taking this saw to a whole nother level. I think you just got it to its structural limits and loaned it to someone who didn't understand what he was holding.

Good work! Too bad, but I'll bet the next saw will be even better!
 
Im also going with Loaned a Hi performance saw to a Lo performance user.



.

After reading all this it sounds like you did some nice work taking this saw to a whole nother level. I think you just got it to its structural limits and loaned it to someone who didn't understand what he was holding. ....

Looks that way.....:jawdrop: :cry:
 
Yup.. most chainsaws can be held WOT for a second or so and dont come to any harm, and most users know this.. but that was supposed to be @10,500.

Face it, a saw modded like that was going to blow up at some point, dont ruin a friendship just cos it happened when your buddy was hanging onto the handle, using it like a normal saw.

When we used to rebuild car engines that was called a grenade engine. It went like a bomb, for a while, then exploded without notice :help:

Cheers

Ian
 
My saw is ruined, that's for sure but our frindship is untouched. He is looking for replacement but I don't even need saw only ones a year to trim christmas tree. But I do like to take machines to the limits. I sould of go and help him with that tree in the first place. I quess I'll go buy one of the electric "toy" saws or better yet, I'll go finish my 1100 to see if I can do it right this time.
Thanks again to every one for input and I would appreciate if some one from you pro's could guide me a little so I don't have to do it over again.
Best regards, Bernard:)
 
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