Husky 235 - worth fixing?

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OM617YOTA

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Howdy folks, new member, first post.

TL;DR, skip down.

I'm a homeowner firewood cutter. Main saw is an 034AV Super for firewood use, and a battery electric Kobalt for the occasional limb around the house. I am by no means an expert, but I can sharpen a chain and tune a saw.

I bought a Simpson capstan winch for dragging rounds and logs out of the woods and back to the truck, and traded some junk I had laying around to a neighbor for a powerhead to run the thing. Turned out to be a Husky 235. Started fine and P&C looked good through the exhaust port so I said sure. The primer bulb should have tipped me off, and I should have read the reviews first..........

Got some issues with it(surprise surprise). Starts fine, runs OK at first, four strokes like it should when revved, then won't four stroke when revved, and keeps leaning out until it dies. I'm maybe 65% sure a $20 carb kit and the splined tool to actually tune the thing will put it right.

TL;DR-> Right now this saw is destined for the trash can, unless the brain trust here says that yes a $20 carb kit and a tune will put it right. I'm aware that it won't last anywhere close to as long as a pro saw, regardless. I've never once regretted paying more for a higher quality tool, but sure have regretted trying to cheap out, and don't intend to waste another $20 on top of what I have in the saw already. Out in the woods with a cord or two of wood to drag is not the place I want to be messing with a PITA tool.

What say the brain trust?
 
I have a lewis winch with a xl12 power head, about the right power and weight.
More importantly to me at least is it has no plastic to destroy when using it.
A winch leads a rough life.
Seems like a 235 is a mite small.
 
I did a thread yesterday about the best way to remove the carb, I ordered a cheapo carb/filters/fuelline/plug kit for $13.

It was a pain in the ass, btw.
 
That saw is way too small for a Lewis winch for starters.

But to the possible problem; check the fuel line closely. Could be 'low permeation' type fuel line that has an extra membrane lining the inside diameter of the line..., which eventually comes loose and impedes or kills the fuel flow. Lots of the cheaper saws use that crap and it will fail.
 
Thanks folks, appreciate the responses.

I have a Simpson winch, not a Lewis, and Simpson recommends a much smaller powerhead than Lewis. More importantly, I'm only dragging firewood rounds out of the woods. Judging based on the small test I did dragging a good size chunk of maple across my yard before the saw quit, the small saw has plenty of power for my needs. When I source a powerhead specifically for this use, I'll get a bigger one, but for now this is just fine.

I'm in the Salem/Stayton area.

@HarleyT Just read your thread, did it run right afterwards?
 
No apologies needed, just wanting to make sure we're all on the same page.

I appreciate the advice and the time, not often a homeowner firewood guy like me gets to pick the brains of industry experts.
 
Thanks folks, appreciate the responses.

I have a Simpson winch, not a Lewis, and Simpson recommends a much smaller powerhead than Lewis. More importantly, I'm only dragging firewood rounds out of the woods. Judging based on the small test I did dragging a good size chunk of maple across my yard before the saw quit, the small saw has plenty of power for my needs. When I source a powerhead specifically for this use, I'll get a bigger one, but for now this is just fine.

I'm in the Salem/Stayton area.

@HarleyT Just read your thread, did it run right afterwards?
Don't know yet.
It is too cold today,

and my wife won't let me fire her up inside.
 
i
That saw is way too small for a Lewis winch for starters.

But to the possible problem; check the fuel line closely. Could be 'low permeation' type fuel line that has an extra membrane lining the inside diameter of the line..., which eventually comes loose and impedes or kills the fuel flow. Lots of the cheaper saws use that crap and it will fail.

I encountered that kind of garbage fuel line on a garden tractor once, i thought the crap just delaminated or some friggin thing when i saw that inner layer peeling off and plugging it up.

Now i know what it was!
 
Tore the carb apart last night. PITA to get the carb off is right, have to disassemble half the saw to do it. No pinholes in any diaphragms or anything but pumping the primer bulb, you can see solid fuel coming from the tank and bubbly fuel coming from the carb. There were also a couple bits of schmoo where it didn't belong.

Got a carb, fuel line, and adjustment tool coming. Only $20 for the parts but dang I hate to throw good money after bad, even when it's not much money. I'm not a rich man; I can't afford to buy garbage.
 
Got the carb, fuel lines, and fuel filter replaced. Ran OK in the shop, will see how it does in the wood or with the winch back on it. So far I'm impressed, for what little that matters without an under-load test.

Whole job was a royal PITA to do, easily took 4x as long as it would on my Stihl. I could easily see someone bringing one of these into a dealer, hearing $100 for the carb(pulled out of my hat, no clue what a genuine Husky carb costs) plus $85 for an hour of shop labor and saying no thanks, to hell with spending $185 to fix a saw that was $200 new. Wouldn't take more than a couple of those for shops to say no thanks, we won't even give estimates on those, waste of time as nobody pays to have them repaired.

Going to keep my eyes open for a more suitable powerhead.
 
Put it in the wood this morning. Same issue, heats up and dies, and eventually won't restart. Cracking open the fuel cap to release a vacuum, in case of a clogged tank vent, made no difference.

I'm done. If anyone wants it, it's yours for shipping, send me a PM.
 
Tore it down, found a torn seal between the case halves. Gooped it with silicone, put it back together. It'll stay running now but won't tune.

I'm officially done. Too much time spent on this POS already.

20200205_185956.jpg20200205_185931.jpg
 

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