Husky 266

[Industry]

My father has an old(er) 266 that is "tired". he had a new ring and piston put in 2 years ago, and it is currently less powerful than he remembers it. I know this info is subjective, but any suggestions as to how to bring this saw back to life? I thought about a new jug, piston combo, along with buying a tach to tune it with. he wants to update to a new husky soon, but I woukld like to get this one running well anyway(he may give it to me when he gets a new saw).

 

[andrethegiant70]

I would suggest doing piston/cylinder ONLY if compression is down. There IS something to be said for disassembling them and cleaning the piston crown, ring groove and ports. If compression is halfway good and the piston is not scored, I'd just do rings. I know you can buy pistons, but I don't know about cylinders. If you're going to change all that out, you might investigate dropping on a piston/cylinder from a 268 or 272. You will need to find out if the carb and manifolds interchange.

A carb job would probably help along with changing the filters.

 

[eyolf]

If you decide to go with the new piston and cylinder, be aware that the regular 268 was a little lower performer than the 266XP. There was a 268XP that would be, for all intents and purposes the same as the 266.

OTOH, the 272 piston and cylinder WOULD CERTAINLY result in a small net increase in power.

 

[SawTroll]

As, Eyolf said, go for the 272xp setup, if you decide on a new cylinder - and beware of the open-port 268 ones.....

 

[spike60]

The first thing to do is that compression test that was mentioned. If it is off just a bit, then a ring is worth a try. The ring part # is 503289017.

If it needs more than that, then here are the 2 P&C kits mentioned:
266: 501685571, $302.10
272: 503758171, $293.82

There is also a different carb listed, for the 272, but they might be interchangable.

As you can see, the prices for a total rebuild on these older saws definately give you "cause to pause". (Being your Dad's saw usually counts for a little something extra.)

The ring is worth a shot, and sometimes that will work. But often times a ring job just isn't enough to bring back a tired saw, even though you can initially see some improvement.

Good luck!

 

[SawTroll]

I believe there is a good chance of finding cheaper kits on E-bay, but beware of the aftermarket "268/266" kits, as they may be the open-port 268 version.

 

[formersawrep]

Did I miss the part about piston / cylinder scoring? The chances of actually "wearing out" a cylinder are next to nothing. There are many other things I would look into before even pricing a cylinder. How about the spark arrestor screen being clogged? Carb screen clogged? Carb too rich? Start with the easy stuff.

If there were to be actual wear on the cylinder, you may be able to "oversize" the piston. Cylinders are marked A, B, C. C being the largest. If you have an A cylinder and it is actually worn you can put a B or C piston in it.

 

[Industry]

thanks for the info guys. It's a really old saw, so if I can't freshen it up on the cheap, then away it goes. I don't have it in front of me, but I will try the easy stuff first. Thanks again

 

[rickyrooster]

266

You can find new piston kits on ebay for around 25.00 plus shipping. A 50mm 268 piston will work as will a piston for a 670 jonsered so be sure to look there also. If your cylinder cleans up fine you should be able to maker run great again and not spend a lot to do it. Youve got a good saw and i think it is worth fixing. hope you getter running like new again and make your dad proud. good luck! Rick:

 

[motosierra]

The first thing to do is that compression test that was mentioned. If it is off just a bit, then a ring is worth a try. The ring part # is 503289017.

If it needs more than that, then here are the 2 P&C kits mentioned:
266: 501685571, $302.10
272: 503758171, $293.82

There is also a different carb listed, for the 272, but they might be interchangable.

As you can see, the prices for a total rebuild on these older saws definately give you "cause to pause". (Being your Dad's saw usually counts for a little something extra.)

The ring is worth a shot, and sometimes that will work. But often times a ring job just isn't enough to bring back a tired saw, even though you can initially see some improvement.

Good luck!

That is the argument many dealers will give you...."That it is just to expensive to rebuild... and you just as well buy a new one"...when actually.. all you might need is a new ring that you can buy from Cutter's Choice for less than 3 bucks ...or a piston that you can buy on eBay for around 22 bucks. And if you do need a cylinder kit (cylinder/piston/ring) you can find one on eBay for less than $90.

If you rebuild your 266 you will have a fine saw without a factory set carburetor (that is not adjustable) and other pollution control devices that will make your saw run hot..... and make it susceptible to premature piston and bearing failure.

 

[motosierra]

I went back and reread your original post. Assuming the proper fuel/oil mix was always used and the saw not used every day for the past 2 years it should not be tired yet. It could be the ring did not seat properly. If you get into the cylinder and decide to replace the ring... be sure to hone the cylinder. There are many posts here on AS on how to clean up your cylinder and prepare it for the piston installation.

 

[jonseredjohn]

Have you checked the spark arrester screen? There is a sure power killer thats ez to fix.Also beware of mis matching pistons to cylinders.The 266
was a closed port "Power flo" design in which the fuel air charge flowed from the crankcase through windows in the piston into the transfers.If you used a piston from an open port saw(non xp268,66) the engine would breathe poorly
and run like it had a potato growing in the exhaust port.