Husky 350 - fiddle or leave alone?

[Ryan'smilling]

Ill take the extra ~7cc's of displacement for half the price.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

What are you talking about? There is no kit for these saws that has 7ccs more displacement than the oem 346 top end. You might want to check your specs.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

What are you talking about? There is no kit for these saws that has 7ccs more displacement than the oem 346 top end. You might want to check your specs.

346xp is listed as 45cc
350 is listed as 49.4
350epa is listed at 51.7cc and is the low compression version with a 353 cylinder and dished piston
353 is listed as 52cc

353top end on a 350

Ill pass on a 45cc 346xp top end for a 52cc top end with a pop up piston.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Huskitoter]

It's a common mistake to assume greater displacement equals greater power. You are leaving cylinder design out of the equation.

Check the power for the various models and don't forget the later 346 NE - 3.7hp.

 

[cuinrearview]

346xp is listed as 45cc
350 is listed as 49.4
350epa is listed at 51.7cc and is the low compression version with a 353 cylinder and dished piston
353 is listed as 52cc

353top end on a 350

Ill pass on a 45cc 346xp top end for a 52cc top end with a pop up piston.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

45cc was the 42mm "OE" top end. The "NE", that Ryan is talking about, is 52cc. Beyond displacement, port timing and compression are big factors in total power. Like I've already said, if you haven't experienced it you can't possibly understand.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

346xp is listed as 45cc
350 is listed as 49.4
350epa is listed at 51.7cc and is the low compression version with a 353 cylinder and dished piston
353 is listed as 52cc

353top end on a 350

Ill pass on a 45cc 346xp top end for a 52cc top end with a pop up piston.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

The 346 USED to be 45cc. Then it became 50cc, your Chinacrap kit is not 7ccs bigger, it's 2ccs bigger, and compared to the OEM 50cc 346 top end it will probably perform like a dog fart.

Putting a $100 top end kit on a roached 350 or 353 makes it a great saw, and INCREASES the value over the way either of those saws left the factory. Can you save $50 and put junk on it? Yes, duh. But you're going to DECREASE the value when it comes time to sell. No one wants to buy a saw with a crap aftermarket top end. As the OP has clearly demonstrated.

This is the problem with taking advice from people who do not know what they're talking about...

 

[RED-85-Z51]

The 346 USED to be 45cc. Then it became 50cc, your Chinacrap kit is not 7ccs bigger, it's 2ccs bigger, and compared to the OEM 50cc 346 top end it will probably perform like a dog fart.

Putting a $100 top end kit on a roached 350 or 353 makes it a great saw, and INCREASES the value over the way either of those saws left the factory. Can you save $50 and put junk on it? Yes, duh. But you're going to DECREASE the value when it comes time to sell. No one wants to buy a saw with a crap aftermarket top end. As the OP has clearly demonstrated.

This is the problem with taking advice from people who do not know what they're talking about...

Still bigger...and badder.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Funny...there were no complaints with how it ran or the price until...oh no its not oem...i deserve compensation because it must be built using only the finest oem parts.

Next day...holy crap im not putting oem priced parts on a saw that i paid less than that much for...ill just get a different brand of Chinese parts...

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[cuinrearview]

Funny...there were no complaints with how it ran or the price until...oh no its not oem...i deserve compensation because it must be built using only the finest oem parts.

Next day...holy crap im not putting oem priced parts on a saw that i paid less than that much for...ill just get a different brand of Chinese parts...

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

I thought Ryan explained it pretty clearly, chylinders and other charts make saws less valuable. The OP purchased based on an expectation of a certain value. Why you can't grasp this is beyond me.

 

[Ronsealdeath]

Funny...there were no complaints with how it ran or the price until...oh no its not oem...i deserve compensation because it must be built using only the finest oem parts.



Next day...holy crap im not putting oem priced parts on a saw that i paid less than that much for...ill just get a different brand of Chinese parts...

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Im admittedly no expert and just spent the last day or 2 looking into it with some of the info supplied here. You are right to question the merits of replacing the top end, but not all things made in China are probably equal. After watching said dentist on Youtube for a little while, it seemed that the top end on it now is junk, looking at how poorly its been cast. The Hyway kit is not too expensive here (UK) and OEM was 5 times that price. Quality seems far better than what i have now.
I could leave it as is, but im not convinced its making factory 350 power, let alone being built to last. Again, just from that bit of research. I could be wrong.
Ill try and do some comparisons perhaps before and after, wont be very scientific but may help clear up the merits or not.
I wont go into it in an open forum but i can assure you, i wasnt the one in the wrong here.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Im admittedly no expert and just spent the last day or 2 looking into it with some of the info supplied here. You are right to question the merits of replacing the top end, but not all things made in China are probably equal. After watching said dentist on Youtube for a little while, it seemed that the top end on it now is junk, looking at how poorly its been cast. The Hyway kit is not too expensive here (UK) and OEM was 5 times that price. Quality seems far better than what i have now.
I could leave it as is, but im not convinced its making factory 350 power, let alone being built to last. Again, just from that bit of research. I could be wrong.
Ill try and do some comparisons perhaps before and after, wont be very scientific but may help clear up the merits or not.
I wont go into it in an open forum but i can assure you, i wasnt the one in the wrong here.

Have you priced out Meteor 346XP cylinder kits in the UK?
They will be more expensive that the cheap Ebay special your saw is currently wearing, probably a tad more expensive than the Hyway kit, but should be less than half the OEM pricing and the quality is comparable to OEM (compared to the other "offerings").

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Funny...there were no complaints with how it ran or the price until...oh no its not oem...i deserve compensation because it must be built using only the finest oem parts.

Next day...holy crap im not putting oem priced parts on a saw that i paid less than that much for...ill just get a different brand of Chinese parts...

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

You, like all of the rest of us (apart from the OP) have no idea how this saw was advertised for sale- if there was no mention of the replacement top end and the quality (or lack thereof) of the parts used, was advertised as a genuine 350 without actually saying as much- then perhaps compensation for an inferior product that was not disclosed is a fair ask?

 

[RED-85-Z51]

You, like all of the rest of us (apart from the OP) have no idea how this saw was advertised for sale- if there was no mention of the replacement top end and the quality (or lack thereof) of the parts used, was advertised as a genuine 350 without actually saying as much- then perhaps compensation for an inferior product that was not disclosed is a fair ask?

Was it advertised explicitly as an untouched oem saw?

When i bought my car which is the same vintage as this saw, seller gave me a list of parts he had replaced and what brand was used. In the year since ive replaced an aftermarket oil sender which was not oem, and replaced intake seals which were not oem. Ive found a few things that were not disclosed that could affect the value of an uncommon car.

But...its a used 17 year old car and it works flawlessly in regards to the parts on it. As is..where is...

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Was it advertised explicitly as an untouched oem saw?

When i bought my car which is the same vintage as this saw, seller gave me a list of parts he had replaced and what brand was used. In the year since ive replaced an aftermarket oil sender which was not oem, and replaced intake seals which were not oem. Ive found a few things that were not disclosed that could affect the value of an uncommon car.

But...its a used 17 year old car and it works flawlessly in regards to the parts on it. As is..where is...

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

There you go comparing horses to dogs- seems to be the popular answer with Chylinder users- compare it to something that is not a chainsaw.
But, since you went down that road- would you have been a little bit pissed if you found the cars motor block had been swapped out for a low quality copy of the original one?

 

[RED-85-Z51]

There you go comparing horses to dogs- seems to be the popular answer with Chylinder users- compare it to something that is not a chainsaw.
But, since you went down that road- would you have been a little bit pissed if you found the cars motor block had been swapped out for a low quality copy of the original one?

Nope, it snapped the backend out at 6500 going into 2nd on drag radials..LS1, LS6, 5.3...4.8..The power was there and it all worked. Many of these cars get LS2 or LS3 swapped now...an original engine is more or less considered boring and not a selling point[emoji28]

I didnt buy the car as an investment to flip, or sock away in a barn...it gets driven, hard and often. Just like my 350, it works, i ran it 3 hours last weekend on some 18 to 20 inch oak...I didn't baby it, i was not kind to it, and it worked great. I didn't get it to sell or be some collectible saw with a numbers matching block...its just got to work.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Nope, it snapped the backend out at 6500 going into 2nd on drag radials..LS1, LS6, 5.3...4.8..The power was there and it all worked. Many of these cars get LS2 or LS3 swapped now...an original engine is more or less considered boring and not a selling point[emoji28]

I didnt buy the car as an investment to flip, or sock away in a barn...it gets driven, hard and often. Just like my 350, it works, i ran it 3 hours last weekend on some 18 to 20 inch oak...I didn't baby it, i was not kind to it, and it worked great. I didn't get it to sell or be some collectible saw with a numbers matching block...its just got to work.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Exactly, with your saw- you did your own downgrade- you didn't burn it up, add an inferior top end and onsell it as happened to the OP.

 

[Huskybill]

Nope, it snapped the backend out at 6500 going into 2nd on drag radials..LS1, LS6, 5.3...4.8..The power was there and it all worked. Many of these cars get LS2 or LS3 swapped now...an original engine is more or less considered boring and not a selling point[emoji28]

I didnt buy the car as an investment to flip, or sock away in a barn...it gets driven, hard and often. Just like my 350, it works, i ran it 3 hours last weekend on some 18 to 20 inch oak...I didn't baby it, i was not kind to it, and it worked great. I didn't get it to sell or be some collectible saw with a numbers matching block...its just got to work.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

I put a 396 in a 63 impala. Muncie four speed, 370 gears. The first power shift I cracked the bell housing, tore the front yoke off the driveshaft, blew the rear, $2100 later scatter shield, Hayes clutch, ported 396/400 hp to the rear, super T 10 tranny, 4:88 posi rear, she ran 12:85 at the track.

 

[Huskybill]

If your going to mod your 350 I’d do the muffler first. And do exactly what these gurus say. My stock 350 screams.

 

[9050LX]

Fix the intake clamp regardless of which top end.I tapped my exhaust threads with 1/4 inch since they were already roached.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I put a 396 in a 63 impala. Muncie four speed, 370 gears. The first power shift I cracked the bell housing, tore the front yoke off the driveshaft, blew the rear, $2100 later scatter shield, Hayes clutch, ported 396/400 hp to the rear, super T 10 tranny, 4:88 posi rear, she ran 12:85 at the track.

Dang i was expecting that to get into the high 11s...thats good power but it is a sled. 63 is the only year impala i liked until the SS in the mid 90s with the LT1.

I really wish we had a decent 1/4 mile track locally but they are drying up nation wide

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[Huskybill]

That was the second run, I hit the traps at 3,500 rpm, I forgot to turn on the electric fuel pump. With 5:38’s and the pump wired to the key switch she should of run 12’s to high 11’s.