Husky 359 Cyinder and Piston Death?

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It definately did hit the exhaust port but I am trying to figure out what that rolled up piece may be and where it might have originated from. Check inside the transfers and see if there might be a shadow where some flash may have come loose.
The piece did cause the piston damage due to it getting caught between the cylinder and the piston when it hit the exhaust port top. It did run for at least a short time with the piece stuck to the top of the piston as that is what made the dark shadow on the piston top.

Are you running Mobil synthetic? It looks it
 
I just hit the brakes
I'll bet you missed a piece that fell inside when you modded your muffler

Pieces can and do get sucked back into the cylinder if they are loose inside the muffler can

Can you post a pic of your muffler and describe how and what you did?

I did mistaken the compression release hole as a pit......the smaller pits won't cause that much trouble but are just poor form in mechanics.

There is a reason why the 359 is alot cheaper than the 357XP and I would really scream bloody murder if a 357XP cylinder was pitted like that.

I like that cylinder and a person could port it really easily to makes loads of gains so maybe the poor plating and machining is to disuade anyone from trying it.;)

I agree that all you need is a new piston and ring. I am now almost certain that the piece stuck to the piston is steel
 
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My 359 2 year old jug might have one small inclusion in it, sure looks nothing like that. I would be upset if a hundred dollar saw had a casting that bad.

All it would take is one flake of plating to come off and get caught as the exhaust port closed, the aluminum would pile up after. Good point on the pieces of metal off a muffler mod, they can get sucked in.

I don't think this one is a lean case, the plug looks good, well ok (not white), and I would think we would see a more even marking accross the port if it was a lean siezure.

Even if you could clean up the exhaust port side I would not trust the jug with that degree of pitting/ flaking.
 
It's not new....it is not to the extent that the muffler modder made it out to be but it does happen....it is stronger on pipes with a strong return wave I used to occaisonally tear down my karts after storage and find seeds and duff down in the cases that some small critter had stored in the pipe I stored them with the intakes blocked and sealed but learned to seal the pipe ends after a few of these episodes

A can type muffler can do much the same under some circumstances I have seen star washers that fell in the mufflers get sucked back into the cylinder
 
It shows good lube and clean/proper oil no sign of overheat

It is mechanical damage that smeared/peened the aluminum over the ring and stuck it there is no melted aluminum which would be present with a lean condition due to overheating

If I sent a cylinder out to replate and it came back like that I would pitch a fit but price point and making it through warrantee period seems to be the New School:deadhorse:
 
I got home and took a magnet to the top peal on the piston and it did not stick. When I did the muffler job months ago I did rinse out the muffler with gas and then water and heated it up with my torch then blew it out with compressed gas. BUT now after feeling the piece I do think that is was part of the catalyst or some part of the muffler :( I used a drill to hollow out the interior of the muffler. I have been using Castrol 927.
 
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Ouch.....I was afraid you did something like that...
It is an e-tech then......green caps?
It may be thin stainless from the baffle some of the cat mufflers use a nobel metal coated plate as a catalyst

Unfortunately there are no aftermarket pistons for this saw yet that I know of

It's an odd bore size
 
I used to see this kind of pitting in brand new cylinders when I worked for a
Homelite distributor.We would complain,the engineers would say it was normal
go ahead and use them ,so we did with absolutely no problems.They even claimed the pitting was beneficial,that it held oil better.
 
I was gonna mention that.........old school is new school all over again

I can't wait to see what the marketing guys call it when all the major manufacturers' cylinders start coming through like that

With
"Oil Catch(tm) cylinder technology"

The smaller pits don't hurt that much particularly with nikasil....
 
Pest:

It looks like Bailey's has a Golf 359 piston, which I could use. Is it worth my time to smooth down the dimple by the exaust port then try this Golf piston for $30 or I can get a new Husqvarna piston and cylinder for $166? What would be the best way to smooth down the dimple?

View attachment 48191
 
So it pulled some of the cylinder IN at the top of the exhaust port?

emery or a small round stone and chamfer towards the port. IE from inside to outside

That plating does not look like nikasil to me but there are lots of formulations.......I swear it looks like chrome almost all the new cylinders I am seeing have sharp port edges it appears they are saving money by eliminating hand work

It is a lot harder on the rings and not good for flow but lower cost of production

Try the golf you don't have much to lose

Also find a way to make absolute sure that there are no more loose bits inside the muffler

In case something else does fail is it not better to lose the 30?
 
I would have a hard time putting that jub back on without cleaning up the lower section of the transfer ports, good gains can be had.

Still I would not have much confidence in the jug with that poor a casting.
 
Is that a Mahle cylinder?
look for any ID marks on the outside of the casting

I was thinking the same on the cylinder base and also cleaning up and matching the transfers which is a cinch with the removable covers

I have never seen a motor running 927 stay that clean but then again all the motors I have seen that the owners use it are running 20 or 30 to 1

the new porting set ups are to clean up emissions and it appears this also minimizes deposits inside

I have never before seen a closed transfer cylinder that was not masked during the plating process this one appears to be plated along with the cylinder bore
 
Thanks for all the info. Now being new to all this, but fairly handy with tools what am I looking to do to match the ports as mentioned above? I just want this saw to be a work horse without having to do to much.
 
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Take the base gasket, look how it lines up with the base, then look how it lines up with the jug. Make the 3 the same by removing material from the gasket and jug. also all those square edges in the transfer port that flow must go around can be streamlined to improve transfer flow.
 
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